Roman

This is pretty cool: http://www.themotorhood.com/themotorhood/2015/5/15/sleepy-sedan-k24-powered-honda-integra 12.8 on the quarter, nice! Wonder what times it does on track.

I found a car that same as mine that was being wrecked, and cut out an overlength section of the same panel. Then ground off all of the captive nuts, and now the new one bolts over the top of everything, rather than between the gap. A lot stronger this way than brackets for the cut piece, if you're able to find another car like yours to chop.

Looks good man! Bring it to ellerslie meet on Wednesday I'll take some fancy pics for ya. And/or take me a for drive, keen to hear some 4age carina racket! Also, what's your Soarer? *Z1* by the looks? pics plz

Same here man, even completely original spec it was so awesome to drive! 80s Soarers are just so fuckin sweet.

Yeah I dont think we need a 5M for anything, but will see if it's healthy before making any decisions. Either way the car will stay as is, in one piece for a while yet until it's needed as an organ donor for the other car. And yeah I shat bricks when I saw it was a 3.7 as well... We'd better treat it nicely, wont be easy to replace haha.

That was when we were leaving from, not where I live unfortunately! But yes an awesome view from there. It was about 45 mins drive north of Auckland (Kaukapakapa)

Epic thread bump! Still havent really done anything further with this, hahaha. Have been a bit occupied with other stuff (blowing up carina, fixing carina, blowing up carina, fixing carina....) However! An MZ11 came up for sale, and we figure it might have some cool bits, or otherwise clips/trim/etc that is less than great on ours. So we went on a mission: If I had to use two words to describe the external condition of this car, they would probably be 'super fucked' heh. Mega rusty, most panels kicked in, roof kicked in! Sort of a bummer but it's a parts car so who cares Came with some cool stuff like headlight squirters, and we were missing one of the fibre optic light thingys you can see on top of the gaurd in this pic: And aaaaahhhhhhhhhhhh yeeeeaaaaaaahhhhhhh about that rust. It looks like the car was parked up for rust reasons rather than mechanical ones, it's got a sweet looking 5MGE in it. Which might start up and be fine, but fuel pump has crapped itself. One thing though is that the interior is EXCELLENT. We will definitely be swapping all of this over into the other car. Not sure if I like the burgundy better than the blue, but the dash isnt cracked, and the (cream) carpet and seats are in amazing condition. Stoked! It's also got cruise control so we'll put that in as well, overcomplicated coupe life Some scumbag kicking panels in, ggrrr.... We've been looking for ages for a 3.7 ratio F series diff, which this has. So we're super chuffed about that! Will make for some sweet cruising rpms when running 15" wheels, with a lot smaller rolling diameter than JZX100 stuff. Either way, it's got me a bit more motivated to get stuck into working on the other car. I think the next thing on the menu is to pull the motor back out, tweak the engine positions slightly, then after that it's laregely panel, paint, reassembly. Cant wait to drive it again one day!

If you're going by the letter of the law then an ECU swap requires a cert, so does the power increase. But in the real world...

You can have a look here for the comparison: http://www.linkecu.com/products/engine-management-ecus/g4plus-feature-matrix If you just want it to do the same as your existing ECU but with a nicer tuning interface etc, then yeah Atom will be awesome no doubt. But if you want to setup things like flat shifting, launch control, nitrous, knock sensing, gear detection, shift lights, warning lights, dash switches, etc etc... Then you might find that an Atom doesnt have enough inputs or outputs. I've been using the extra inputs and outputs for things like datalogging MAF sensor values, extra temperature or pressure datalogging, clutch switch for launch control, speedo signal for gear detection, outputting to a configurable shift light, and a few things like that. Some people use switches for things like turning on NOS, switching ECU maps, switching boost level, turning traction control on/off, setting a pit lane speed limiter, and... what ever else you can think of really! So if you want to tinker with things then in my opinion the more inputs/outputs the merrier. But if you just want to wire it up, get your car tuned and leave it as is - Atom or Storm will likely do everything you want to do, easily. If you're looking at some options for a new ECU and are going to be tuning it your self or using for datalogging or whatever, I reccomend downloading the software and having a look first... As you'll be staring at it a lot later on so you want to make sure it suits you / runs on your PC / whatever. Most ECU manufacturers seem to have free downloads for their tuning software.

I think it just comes down to how many inputs/outputs you need/want. If an Atom can do everything you need, then there's no point spending money on something more.

The back story is that you've got a G4 EDIT: Here's the blurb from the update notes: New Features · Removed ECU feature unlocking. ECUs will now have feature sets as per the firmware 5.4.1 feature differentiation chart. Note, ECUs are still shipped as locked and need to be enabled but all previously purchasable features will become enabled after this firmware update. So your guess is as good as mine. On the forum, some people are raging that they paid for an update thats are now free, even though they now get the rest of them for free they aint happy that other people get the same thing. "A pig can find shit anywhere"

The 5.4.1 firmware update unlocks all of the options for free for the G4+. (depending on model I think) Sweet! Havent had much of a play with mine yet, but looking forward to getting knock sensing setup. It will be awesome to have knock properly integrated as one thing I've been hesitant about is advancing the timing without any feedback I can review.

I love toyodiy as much as the next man but you cant trust a list like that, it's mostly just lumping in Chassis which have an M motor in it. I bet that a GA70, MA70 and JZA70s have different knock sensor part numbers if you looked them up. You might be searching for a while if looking for a knock sensor from an LX76 diesel Mark 2... Trust me I'm the cheapest kernt ever and always the first to hit up toyodiy for something haha... But wont ever mix and match knock sensors, after spending years chasing my tail for engine problems caused by fitting the wrong one. So long as you double check that any of the above models have the same part number on knock sensor, then good to go.

"pretty much every Toyota runs the same knock sensor" no no no no no no no and 10 million more no. You MUST get a 7MGTE knock sensor, or something with exact part number. (So, you probably need the 7MGTE one) And no you cant just loop it off. Toyota knock sensors are filtered to listen out for just a specific frequency that's generated when an engine with that particular bore size / block construction etc has knock. So if you put one on from a different engine it's listening out for the wrong thing. I've gone down this path before, trust me that it will cause you an infinity ball ache if you put the wrong knock sensor on there.

I think that dude's dressed so he doesnt fizz on the driver.

I'm fizzing out of every hole for this

Well, this went well. Straight after nats I pulled the engine mounts out, to see if I could tip the engine a bit to fit the dual injector manifold without hitting the bonnet. Looked like this wasnt going to work, so I shut the garage door. went upstairs and had a drink. *7 weeks go by* It sat like this until Tuesday night, when I decided that I am making a poor life decision by not attending a Taupo trackday in 2 days time. So stayed up till 2am getting it back together, then got a wof 4pm Wednesday and hit the road. My previous best lap time was set on a damp track, so I knew I could easily do better. The car had HEAPS of grip! and was super stable through the fast turns that used to feel... unsafe haha. So I was stoked to set a new PB of 1:56.0 buuuutttt my clutch shit the bed after only 5 laps. So there's definitely more left in it, my best lap was pretty shoddy, some sectors I was still actually faster from last time. Combining best sector times from both runs there's an easy 1:54 I reckon. Spent the rest of the day taking some pics which was fun, but a comical series of events means I'm currently on a bus back to Auckland to grab the truck and trailer to head back down and pick it up. At a guess I'd say the clutch lining has demolished itself, but time will tell! Will be a few days yet until I have the car home and can yank the engine back out.

The problem with 3 piecing them is that you're machining the stepped dish flat, you're getting rid of only thing thats ever cool about dish in the first place. The widened ones pictured look yuck with the flattened off face and gross bolts/studs combo going on there. If you're just wanting to recuperate some money, then 3 piecing them isnt going to be worth your while. Probably just need to take a hit on asking price, or hold on to them.

Hmmm hard to say whether you would get exactly the sound you're after first try. Why not build the exhaust and then have a flange just before the muffler... That way you can try a few different combos to see what's sweet. My car runs two straight through mufflers from Chase, they were pretty cheap. I just went there and told the dude what I was after and he had a flick through his book and found me what I was after. I flanged the rear muffler as I thought I'd need to swap it for something quieter/sanity... But it's actually not as bad as I thought it would be. They'd probably have a pretty good idea of what would work for what you're after. It would suck to get something $$$ custom made $$$ and then it's not what you're wanting.

Ahhh okay thanks guys. Yeah this stuff would be long gone if it was mine, but I'm looking after it for a friend who's overseas. So cant sell.

Hey, This might sound like a stupid idea, and it probably is. But I've got a bunch of car audio stuff (think a big bass speaker thing and and amp for it that fills half a car boot) and some smaller speakers that go with it that dont otherwise have a use. I was thinking rather than just sitting in the cupboard forever and ever I could set them up in the lounge or something. Doable / good idea / bad idea? Could I wire them straight in as normal speakers, or use the amplifier, or ??? Bits I've got are: Thunder 2300 Power Amplifier power Acoustik G540-2 GOTHIC series A fusion 12" by the looks speaker in a ported box And some smaller amps that have some 6" speakers and tweeters. I know nothing about car audio, but these came from a friends car who was a car audio nerd back in the day. Is it as simple as using a 240v > 12v converter type thing, or best to just flag the amps and wire speakers to a stereo? Any comments/suggestions/etc welcome, thanks.

Spencer, who never finishes any of his own projects because he overcomplicates things and gives up... Is telling you to take the most complicated, difficult and expensive option. Rookie, who notoriously undersells how long things take or how difficult they are, wants to cut your car in half just before gapping it overseas. Do you want to get it running and have some fun, or scope creep your finish line a few more years into the future? Keep the 4 link even if it aint great, or do whatever seems like it will help you get this up and running.

Yeah these things are easy to say when it's not your car though.