Roman

Lol so the only option you'd ever consider, is the horrifically expensive one? K series are great but Honda tax makes my wallet cry. Then that x100 if wanting to RWD one.

Drag day is coming up so I've been trying to get some sort of baseline idea of how this thing might go. Using some GPS data from trackday (with the previous exhaust setup though), I've got a good idea of how fast it accellerates in a straight line in the 100-180kph range. So with some dubious maths, combining this with some 0-100kph testing looks as though this should currently do about a mid 15 at 140kph. The MR2 had a lot better traction than this car, it could launch from redline no problems! 2 second 60 foot times. The problem that the car has currently, because there's miserable traction the ideal launch rpm is in a torque hole. (1500rpm or so) So if I launch above this speed, it wheelspins. If I launch at or below this speed, it bogs. Both options kill time... bugger. By increasing the amount of traction you are widening the 'launch window' (The rpm range you can launch at, without excessive bogging or wheelspin) It would be nice to have a 'launch window' from 2500-4500rpm perhaps... Hopefully some traction brackets and low psi in the tires will be enough to get it to hook up nicely off the line. Will hopefully get enough runs in without issue to test out my theory.

Theres a bunch of mr2s in auckland pickaparts / zebra at the moment so shouldnt be hard to find one.

Use one of the taps that are in the front of an MR2 that you normally use to bleed the heater circuit with... Can run them inline with rubber hoses about the same diameter as most heater pipes. I used to have airlocks at the back of my engine but fitted one of these into the highest rear pipe and now it's fine.

Aahhh stink! If my car shits itself between now and then I'll let you know haha.

yeah make it yourself. generic ones are awful.

rookie - the best race car is one thats easy to fix. unless youve got a team of mechanics!

Yeah something like that, ended up parting out his project I believe. There was another one though, a race car... But it needed the firewall pushed back a fair bit, tunnel enlarged, drip tray for windscreen cut right back, and I think he had to get rid of the Brake MC and booster from the engine bay to make everything fit. I think it was only possible to take the motor and box out from underneath as well.

1. 60psi or there abouts, with a returnless fuel line. So you need an aftermarket FPR. 2. From factory they have a dual mass flywheel which is a big heavy shitsack (15+kg) but light aftermarket options available. 3. It's a tall and wide engine with a gearbox that doesnt fit the tunnel. So pretty much everything's a problem, for a starlet. A 4age/T50 will be about 5% of the ballache to get fitted and running. Beams starlet has been done before, I think there's a project on here or toyspeed. But not something I'd want to do! 4. Not sure.

The longer the driveshaft, the lower it's rpm is that it wants to vibrate itself to death at. Hence two piece. A few guys here have had issues with 1 piece shafts doing exactly that, so went to 2 piece in the end. Why are you fitting a hilux diff/what engine are you running? If you're wanting to take your car to the track and go 150+ then two piece is likely the better option.

I aahhhh..... yeah. We try not to be too judgemental around here, and are generally a polite bunch. But I think there would be only a few people in disagreement that you've just plainly wrecked the gaurds on your car, both in aesthetics and repairable-ness. Stance and wide wheel thing is a bit past it's time, this car is a perfect opportunity to try something a bit new or different instead? Rather than the same thing that's been done a million times already, better (no offense, besides its definitely on its way out if you're wanting to keep up with what's 'cool' on the internet) I reckon this car has some cool lines to take some styling cues from some older touring car sedans... Make it look like a nascar as a bit of a hat tip to the Camrys that have raced the american ovals for however long. Find some sweet inspiration in here and whip up something awesome! //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/45143-race-car-pic-thread/ And dont worry we all know what JB weld is Welcome to OS.

Good stuff! Must be stoked.

So after a weekend of remaking the exhaust, while feeling dead sick the entire time... I remember why I like to muck around with CAD and so on, it's much easier to daydream about things than actually do them haha. Denham and Dave Sentra were ultimate GCs this weekend with helping me get this sorted, especially when I was suffering brain fade from about 9am each day with the flu. Thankfully Denham was happy to let me hold the dumb end of the stick while he worked some magic on remaking the exhaust! BrockLee and a few others helped out too which was all much appreciated. Now it's all 2.5" with mandrel bends, a resonator in the middle and a straight through muffler at the rear. I was expecting this to be on the obnoxiously loud side of things, but it's actually pretty sweet. The car's actually quieter at idle and low load, and sounds a LOT better. (less tinny) But I'd say it definitely picks the volume up a notch when you put your foot down haha. The rear muffler is flanged in a way that makes it super easy to swap out for a quieter (triple chamber) type of muffler instead if need be. I'm suspecting that the above mods may have freed up a bit of top end restriction, as after taking it for a quick drive I am shifting too late from 2nd to 3rd as it seems to zing there a bit quicker now. Pretty stoked! I've only got a tradgedy of a cellphone picture to show for the weekends efforts though, as I sold all of my DSLR gear last week to focus on a few other things over this coming summer. I've paid in for a Hampton Downs Twilight session on the 29th of this month (which is a Wednesday) if anyone's keen, a bunch of OS'ers are going so come along! Starts 4pm onwards. Here's a thread for it: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/37070-hamilton-monthly-meet-october-29th-hampton-downs/ After that (assuming the car holds together) I'll be heading down to the OS Leadfoot event that weekend, then the OS drags in December for a rort down the strip. Hopefully it wont be too embarassing down the strip, but it could probably do with some traction brackets prior to then to help it get off the line a bit better. I'd be happy if it ran somewhere in the 14s. Super happy to have the car running again though! It makes me wonder how I kept any motivation while it was off the road for so many years.

I'm keen for sure! Tee up a time in the next few weeks.

Yeah when you pressurize the fuel, (pumping it initially) it adds heat. When you decompress the fuel, (The injector nozzle spraying into intake) it loses the same amount of heat in reverse as the pressure drops. So if you add a cooler in the middle, you end up with a lower temperature than what you started with. Any of the setups running super high pressures would have a fuel cooler before it gets to the rail. It's the same as how CRC or whatever sprays out cold from a pressurized can.

Yeah I guess also the higher the pressure you run, the more cooling you get from the pressure drop / state change too. I guess most EFI systems run at that cross over point between high enough pressure for injectors to have a nice spray pattern but not giving the fuel pump too much of a hard time. (Or causing horrific exposions haha)

It's generally reccomended that injectors run at maximum of about an 80% duty cycle at full load, but on a 4 stroke engine the intake valves are open less than 1/4 of the time. So sequential injection is more about making it run nice at low load I guess. Regarding accelleration enrichment. I guess if a consequence of the accelleration enrichment being wrong is the engine bogging, then perhaps you could test it by datalogging the TPS/rpms/vehicle speed on a flat straight road, get the car going at a consistent speed and engine load then floor it. Then make some changes, and do the same again. Look at the graphs and see if the initial accelleration moves closer or further from the point where your TPS gets whacked wide open. Although not sure if MS has datalogging with enough resolution to show that well enough. But just an idea... It's hard to quantify improvements with the butt dyno alone! I think I'll have another look into setting up MS or Link over the summer time. Missing out on the fun.

Paid! Even though my car is in bits, haha

The reason I suggest Matt is that he's blown up 10 zillion W series boxes before, but now seems to have them hold together with 450ish hp in his race car KE70. I cant think of anyone else who would know more about what makes them blow up, how to make them strong, etc etc. Send me a PM if you want some contact details.

Matt Dunn from Timaru is pretty boss with all things gearbox / rwd toyota / etc Although maybe a bit far to send if there are local options for you.

Since I had to pull it apart anyway to fix the gasket I have now modified my extractors (To solve gasket and ground clearance issues) in such a way that I'll need to remake the rest of the exhaust to make the car drivable. Pretty much instant regret / should have just smashed in another gasket haha. Hopefully I can remake the exhaust in a weekend though, with help of Sentra Dave's fancy lifting machine.

Definitely! I cant wait for this, I havent driven the downs yet. I guess I should pay my entry fee / finish exhaust

Yeah that upper rear roof wing thing from an MA61 would be useful as it would delay the point at which the air detaches from the roof. The lower rear wing on an MA61 is likely there to deal with the air that wraps around from the sides of the car, and stop it from interacting with the swirling air lower down at the back of the car. I'll have more of a play around later and post some pics with a few things added. Gonna carry on with the exhaust today though, hopefully it's a bit quieter with 2 mufflers.

To be honest I dont really want the car to look too much different to how it is, I like it looking like a normal car without crazy aero stuff or whatever. If I could concoct a spoiler of some sort that looks like it suits and acheives something, might do that. And maybe a front splitter, although for the small benefit it provides I'd rather keep the ground clearance and enjoy driving it more. I bought some Ferodo DS2000 pads, on reccomendation of the guys at racebrakes. I chopped up my extractors 2-1 section and reangled them, and shortened the pipe after the 2-1 section merges so it's easier to get in and out. So I might be able to pull the engine out with the extractors still on now, which would make things that little bit easier. But now I've got to remake the rest of the exhaust, haha. Will be using a hotdog style resonator thingy and a straight through offset oval muffler. Might be all of the louds, but I'll make the flanges and mounts so it can be easily swapped to a triple pass muffler if need be.