Unclejake

Getting the carbs and jets clean is important. If the splutter happens when you progress from idle to mid throttle then you should adjust the idle mixtures (the four screws closest to the head). There is plenty of guides to that in the web - but your ignition system must be set up perfectly first. If it still does the splutter then you may need to look at jetting and venturi sizes, but that is bloody expensive and should be one of the last options. I assume you have a vacuum advance distributor but no vacuum supply?

I presume you meen 2 main/2 idle jets per carb? (Yes - UJ)The fuel is getting poured into the wing nut/inspection cover where the jets are accessed .a very small quantity is getting poured in and it starts right up.and continues to run not just until the fuel getting poured in gets used up. Rob Ahh. That makes float valves even more likely (or a fuel pump problem). Don't buy any jets yet. The float valves will often come right by gently tapping the carb with a small hammer. I fixed a Mustang with your same issue with a hammer two weeks ago. I wouldn't fit the carb kits yet either. Get the thing running first if you can. I don't think pump jets will cause your exact issue, but you don't need the engine running to test them. The pump jets will spray neat fuel into the inlet manifold when the butterflys are opened abruptly. Summary: 1) Ensure the fuel pump is delivering the carbs fuel. They like about 3psi. If you have a 15psi pump on there the thing will never run. 2) Tap the tops of the carbs repeatedly with a small hammer 3) Try to start the engine, and if it only runs after you manuall add fuel then you should take to tops off and check the float valves. Good luck. Keep us updated as this sounds like a fun project. EDIT: From memory the actual idle jets are burried way down in the bowels of the float bowl. The idle mixture screws on the manifold flanges may well need adjustment, but if this has been a running car then it should run with those untouched for now

Well done with the fuel. CHCH is a bit far away for me to pop by, but after reading your description again I am not completely clear on what the issue is. - There are four main jets. Where are you pouring fuel to get the engine started? Most of what you describe could be caused by one stuck float valve .... which seems likely given the history

I have had a bit to do with the pre-crossflow Ford engines on DCOEs and there is a lot of possibilities to list. The obvious one is that the fuel is stale. Where are you located?

Thanks x 1000 gents. With the MM set-up correctly we have a 0.87A drain. I like it when it is consistent. We shall set about finding it soon. Kisses.

This is the exact meter. I had the dial rotated all the way clockwise and the probes pluged in as they are in the photo http://www.dicksmith.co.nz/product/Q1456/auto-ranging-digital-multimeter.jsp?bmForm=selImgPathSubFrom&bmFormID=jtYqseE&bmUID=jtYqseF&bmIsForm=true&bmPrevTemplate=%2Fproduct%2FQ1456%2Fauto-ranging-digital-multimeter.jsp&bmEditable=selImgPathHdn&bmHidden=selImgPathHdn&selImgPathHdn=%2Fmedia%2FDSNZ%2FProduct%2F300x300%2FQ1456_0_med_v1_m56577569835168792.JPG&bmSubmit=selImgPathSub&selImgPathSub=Submit+Query&bmHidden=PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id&PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524441895930&bmHidden=FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302028324&bmFields=bmFormID%2CbmHidden%2CbmIsForm%2CbmForm%2CbmUID%2CbmEditable%2CbmPrevTemplate%2CbmSubmit&bmHash=d8249826868a05e722fa1b3de2e2b68a3ba95741

Did you try Enford in Christchurch?

I dunno how old the battery is but it doesn't go flat if it is isolated from the wiring. I just got told by a geek here at work that I had the multimeter set-up wrong. Evidently I should have had one of the probes plugged into the 10A port thing. My bad. It seems possible that we wasted a few hours on this last night. Chur for the offer Sparkalicious, but let me try your resistance tests first..... (after I repeat the amps test with the meter set correctly). Much love XXXOOOXXXOhms

I don't think so. I think it is automatic. I will check on my way home tonight

I will try to look again late this week. It is a two man job (one reading the multimeter and the other fiddling), we did a couple of hours tonight but just got confused

Heck. The boat will have to come to bits then. I am not looking forward to that. The owners have been using it like this for months though and nothing bad happens. They just had to start isolating the battery when it is parked up. A day out on the water is no problem..... which made me think it was something not switching off

Yip. Previously salty but the boat is now stored in our shed. Does the insulation tester need to pass over the length of the wiring? Coz that ain't gonna happen without pulling it all out of the duct

You reckon a single problem is likely then Yowzer, and not a heap of small ones? It has me beat as I can't understand how a 'short circuit' would be so constistent at 2.7A with all feeds from the battery present, and then consistent at 1.7A with some feeds removed. I am flummoxed as

I still find it hard to believe, but it really happened and we did it five times (sober I might add). The ropes (just the battery carry handles) weren't even all that wet. I dunno. It seems too odd but it stopped happening when we moved them ropes

I shall ask Uterus. I don't have access to one as far as I know. Could broken insulation do this? If so then the problem will be in the wiring duct, where they shoved the new remote cables. There is no way to get a tool in there

Fibreglass hulled inflatable boat with two stroke outboard. I know you can't tell me where the amps are going but you can make me feel loved. Thanks. This is not my boat. I am just trying to help a mate. Semi Facts: 1) The problem started after a heap of other work was done. This included fitting new remote cables (jammed through the wiring duct) and a new bimini 2) The battery has two big Yamaha power cables to the outboard, plus one +ve to the accessories and two -ve to the accessories 3) All the accesssories, except the trim tabs, are controlled by a common switch panel with inline fuses. 4) The second -ve wire from the battery is to the trim tab pump 5) There is a 2.7 amp draw with all of the battery wires connected and everything switched off. 6) There is a 1.7 amp draw with less than all of the battery wires connected. It does not matter which wires we disconnect (as long as there is at least one + and -) 7) On five consecutive occasions, with two of us watching and only the outboard +ve cable connected to the battery, we got a 1.7amp reading when the outboard -ve cable was moved to within 5mm of the battery terminal. WTF!!! It was leaking amps by induction? Are you serious? 8. ) There were some damp carry ropes on the battery. we moved those away from the terminals and the inductive 1.7 amp draw went away, but a 1.7 amp draw returned when the outboard -ve cable was connected to the battery 9) With everything connected - Unplugging individual switches or gauges dropped the draw by 0.2 amps. I did not try unplugging more than one device at a time. Questions: - What is an acceptable draw with everything switched off? - Can anyone explain the inductive draw? - Can multiple lots of 0.2 amps add up to 2.7 amps given that there are only eight or nine electrical things on the boat (plus the motor)? - Have I gone mad? Edit; 12 volt, only one battery, everything is damp but less than 10 years old, wiring looks fairly professional

CRC used to make a chassis sealant/urathane that was pretty good. I would paint frst if possible. Not just primer as it stays absorbent. Get some top coat on there if you can.

The nominally accepted figure is 80 l/pm for a smaller engine ( less than 3,000cc). I can't remember the big engine rate

I did a Beetle back in the 80's and we used a pipe cutter to cut the centre section of the front suspension and then just rotated it a bit and welded it back together. That moves the anchor points for the torsion bars - but it is probably illegal now

Sweet news indeed

If you put the gauge on the passenger's side then watch out for the glass breaking, coz if it does that 105E suction will pretty much implode the car and suck your teeth out and down the pipe/not really WRT the thing you were trying to undo from the manifold: I have a vague recollection of a screw head being part of the early manifold castings. I could be confused with something else on another motor, but just be certain that you are seeing a removable thing and not part of the factory casting (you will know of course as you are looking at it). I doubt you are going to get a significantly different result from moving the pipe though........... have you check that the diaphragm in your dizzy is intact? Yeah, and don't pay attention to any of these likers. They are just un-jealous.

The obvious one is to chuck away the vacuum gauge brother. All it will do is fixate you and tear your attention away from the road and family life whilst you angst over why the vacuum at 67.3 kmph was only 13.2 inches of mercury when the manual says it should be more..... etc.Vacuum gauges came out standard in 4 cylinder Commodores and that's about it.......... and although 4 cylinder Commodores had an interesting place in post energy crisis NZ motoring, they were still spack. Spack as a cheese fondu, Timeshare apartments and de-ionizers. Spack

That could be a number of things, one of which is a bore full of water, but quite possibly a dying, and now dead battery* *Assuming you mean that the engine would not rotate when you engaged the ignition key. You will not get a decent answer here without more diagnostics. The possible causes of the symptoms you describe range from minor to terminal. Good luck with the mechanic.

Oh fuck me I LOLed (no offence meant). Mean as Bullit. Great choice

Ooooo. The Valley never lets its people go for long