Spencer

I have to say sir that you are a dedicated mother fucker to do all this 2 part painting in the cold weather. Also I only ever did a quick block on that protec epoxy when doing bog/body work on it, chuck down the bog seal with epoxy and then get some high build primer that sands nice on there. It blocks up my flash sandpaper too quick that stuff, they actually make about 3 other epoxy primers those guys and some of them sand better. I don't even think you can buy that one anymore. Anyway its working for you, nice jerb old geezer etc. EDIT: Oh and in spam you mentioned you were trying to wet on wet that stuff? it was late and I forgot to reply. What I did is thin it down just a tad more and use my 1.4 top coat gun, it will go retarded if you dont let it flash the thinners off and set a tad. In your temperatures who knows how long, I only ever sprayed it in 25 degrees straya weather and it worked great, 2K black urethane over top no drama and pretty darn flat. Oh and the recoat window is like 24 hours ( I think, most epoxies are check the data sheet) so you can let it skin right off, clean it and paint with no sanding.

For glass scratches use (buy/borrow) a DA polisher (5" one you use for paint corrections), Meguiar's do a microfiber pad (itrs real hard compared to paint pads) and a glass polish that will cut down the glass. It can make a screen like new, you have to clean it real well, for that use a clay bar and a fresh razor/scraper blade.

Man I don't think any of those products are that good, to get rid of the rust use a phosphoric acid (bunnings sells rannex which is good) steel will go back to bright white if you leave it long enough. Clean it up after that with a scotch brite pad and then use a traditional 2 part epoxy primer (spray if you can/brish if not). I have used 2-3 different rust converter/primer combos and the actual adhesion is pretty woeful. I would use a phoshoric acid and then a POR-15 style moisture cured urethane over them any day (but epoxy and proper paint is the preference). Oh avoid getting the acid in body seams, use abrasives around them if you can. I would actually just use a wax right over the rust rather than those primers I think. The acid is also great to soak parts man, it is actually its best feature. Anything that unbolts from my car and can be soaked in a tub witrh citric (or watered down rannex/phosphoic) gets that treatment, parts come out like new. Use paint stripper on the paint first if there is still any in the way, the acid only loosens old lacquer very slowly/not at all sometimes. This convo is probably worth a thread since rust is like the biggest problem most of us have! I'll actually try to remember to start one later after shed time.

Hmmm now I want to paint and restore some old appliances! so many sweet lowrider inspired paint options.

Man if you factor in a conversion this thing will set you back many, many thousands surely. Fix the body and get it moving and see what happens

Man this is terrible, good work.

Good luck! really though for a area that big you should just get some big sheets of plastic and spray it. Really easy area to mask off and it will give a better adhesion I think if its all laid down in 2-3 uniform coats.

Yea man you can brush it on, most data sheets say its fine in small areas. I brush it on all my patch panels, it comes out lumpy as shit though. Just try it with no thinner and if it flows out well go for it, if not add a little thinner if needed.

Guess because it costs money and he's just having fun fucking around with the current setup? No need for be a hater rookie haha. He's probably just saving up for the K-swap.

Yea pipe after the muffler helps with deep sound for sure. Go 3" or bust haha.

I'm going to do the trip at this stage since Bathurst fell through. Couple thousand Km in the wag will be fun.

Yea get some of that BNT shit for sure, I would flush it with a few sorts of products TBH because it will be a mess. You need something to get the oil out, then some kind of mild acid to clean/convert the rust.

Yea may as well do a lush up on that head while you are there. Yea I think the supercheap and repco flushes are just overpriced crap (probably like 30c worth of degreaser mixed with some caustic type stuff to remove rust scale), but they will work OK. Make sure you get the block drains open also, be careful though as they can be welded too the block haha. Maybe google some recipies for rad flushing, people use mild acids which work the best on rust and shit (probably not so much the oil), they key to whatever you use is getting it all out again so that's why I use compressed air following the water. Just whatever you do follow it up several times until you are draining clear water, its about the best you can do.

Hmm I think it would be a crazy specialist jerb to fix the factory gauge (if the problem is more than the sender) as they have those tiny wingdings in them. Maybe run aftermarket for now and find another cluster. I would be wary of that radiator, has it been rodded and tanked after the gunk/BHG? I'm bordeline OCD these days but I would 100% change all hoses and inspect/change the water pump, rod the radiator and then run any of the over the counter flushes about 10 times until it was mint (add the flush, drive around for a week then clean it all out again with the blow down tool thing I mentioned). The normal flushes are just a water based caustic degreaser shit that should grab the oil and suspend it in the solution. I do this with even newer cars that have had poor maintenance and soo much crap comes out if you catch the water and have a look.

Yes I'd replace all the rubber hoses, pull the thermostat and then use a chemical flush about 10 times until it runs clear. Also undo the block drains and flush heater as said. I have a cheap flush tool that is great, you hook up the garden hose and compressed air so you can blast through a head of water. Yea also good advice with those thermostats, so many of those cheap shitty ones don't work out of the box.

Its basically used on everything, wood, fibreglass, plastic etc. Just tailored to the durability and finish needed for each application.

And like you can still use solvent curing acrylics/enamels and shit for quick "who cares" jobs but otherwise no.

Yup same deal, pretty much everything is 2 part urethane for top coat and 2 part urethane primer underneath. I mean there are modern waterborne paints,. but they aren't for what we are doing.

Plastic bumpers on new cars are painted normal 2K urethane, primer and top coats same as rest of the car. Sometimes using a plastic primer agent thing but I just bang 2K primer straight on plastic.

Yea they are all rubbish.

Yea I understand your position, but google has surpassed pretty much all of the stand-alone navigation devices just through sheer resources (IMO). The turn by turn has gotten so much more detailed as they use satellite imagery and street view to make it more accurate, they also bought Waze I think which helped with their traffic algorithm (the traffic updates for crashes etc are legit). Europe is so densely populated that I doubt you will be out of coverage much (if at all) and when you are the navigation keeps working until you hit coverage again. Unless you want to use it to navigate a forest it will beat all the others all the time. Once it is available offline there will be no discussion to be had (unless somehow apple maps gets 8000 times better). All you need is a USB charger and a nice clip for the windscreen, its actually easier that a dedicated unit (again IMO)

Just get a data sim, research it and you'll be able to get one before you go even.

Or if you are going old school and won't be traveling with the Internet just buy a map.

I just edited my post lol. Yes, but just get a sim, how often will you be out of coverage where you need hard core turn by turn? About zero times?

Bro google maps on a phone is the best shit these days, take it back. Get a flagship phone that's fast and has a snappy gps and you'll be away, just buy a sim for data whe you're there. They announced google maps will release a offline version at some stage which will be dope!