Spencer

Half a 44 and just leave it there:

Oh I see, yea they do get bent but Usually it's the plastic cam and spring that they operate that is binding them. I have lots of spares if you ever want to revisit it. Give that performer a wideband tune of you can and it will serve you well anyway.

Yea the performers are excellent value and good carbs, 100% on board with the swap. Just the q-jet does things better, I didn't quite pick up what was wrong with yours? It was built already?

It's a edelbrock performer right. I'm sad you didn't just sort the Q-jet.

Yea man keen on a fire, see if you guys can sort a drum. I'll bring my shitty gas cooker for some extra cooking powers.

I talked with sam over the weekend. I'm keen to just buy some more tent/gazebo shit, just get some better quality stuff and some serious guy rope action to combat the wind.

I'll buy one now & probably get Hemi one. Driving down to this is going to be fucking sweet.

What is the diameter of the current one? there are small diameter generic ones.

You want a booster man, unboosted sucks. Run a small diameter booster as suggested above.

As Sheepers says there isn't much you can do! When you dip a shell you are not going to seal every seam up so problems arise there for sure. If it's just panels I do as Sheepers says and just seal it up best you can, stacks of epoxy primer and then wax. I've thought and talked about this with lots of guys and there's not much you can do except bust the seams open and epoxy them! Pretty much every old car could do with that kinda treatment but it's never going to happen. Seal it the best you can and keep the car in a shed, it will last longer that you if you do that.

yip rookie is on to it with the evaporative cooling of the fuel in the intake. One other thing I have read in racecar engineering is that race teams run their outboard injectors at insane pressures (most classes have fuel pressure rules now) for pretty decent power gains. You should run those injectors at 15 bar fuel pressure roman.

88 is probably better than a 82 if your cooling system is up to it, by that I mean the radiator and fan can keep the car around the 88-95 degree mark then you are golden. Usually going to a lower temp is only a band-aid to give you some more wiggle room, usually if you have a good cooling system the lower thermostat just means on the highway the car runs too cold. Like everyone with a old car I think you need to use a good aftermarket gauge and learn what your cooling system is doing. Rod the radiator if it is a old one, 99% chance it is full of crap if its original. Then pick a t-stat that keep the engine around 90-100 degrees, then dimension a fan (and the all important shroud) that can actually pull the temps down when stationary to the thermostat temp. If you take a systematic approach and sort the cooling system you never have to touch it again. Only thing this doesn't take into account is if the rad is big enough for high load stuff like going to the track, but that's another thing to figure out if you do that kinda stuff. Im alos a fan of electric fans for everything, clutch/viscous fans are awesome at moving air but you have no idea if they are actually working properly if they are original. Electric fans (good ones that move enough air) can be set to precise temperatures and left to do the job no worries.

Yea man the car is going to be lusher and the drive way longer this time, join in.

All welded up. I'm surprised there's a difference, some drunk guy probably put it together.

Chop it up and do it tidy, no point fixing that plastic tank one.

Just chuck all this running gear in your sedan and roll.

Lush

Sweet, we will be in Melbs most of the week, do some exploring. Super keen to fuck around with the gasser.

Yea man if it's the old radiator then it's probably blocked, so many people over look cleaning the radiator out when rebuilding an engine. But yes brand new thermostats can also not function properly.

This shit is cheap so yea I did a similar thing, just pour it in. You can apply it with a brush Tom so no prob getting in there with a brush to spread paint around.

He's back soon, ask him. Need to get Tom on board and do some coal power station spotting.

Yea we will be in town earlier in the week so will roll down early with you guys.

Yea I haven't got a ticket but yes I think thats the one.

Few things to start off: bench test the thermostat (what temp is it? that's the temp the motor should run with a small variation), run a decent gauge, get a decent rad cap (tridon and cheap ones are garbage), flush radiator, tell us what fans you run (Fan is super important).

So just acrylic laquer rattle cans? More details man. As for heat I'm not sure, I think 2k urethane are they way to go on engines these days, but obviously not easy to do at home. Just a guess but I'm thinking you didn't let it flash off enough between coats and that fucked it maybe? You should be able to put down a million coats of laquer if it flashes off (it's what you are meant to do)