Spencer

Personally as a old man I would just replace to standy spec if you can be bothered. Removing leaves or lowering big-useful leaf sprung vehicles usually makes them more shit for not much gain.

EDIT: Ignore me didn't see it was broken. Plan to put heavy things in it?

We ran many track days back around 2007-2012+ ish and would usually only just cover the costs, usually have to desperately try drum up entries over the last few weeks to break even. I think it would be even harder these days? just seems like less active members with cars they want to thrash on the track now (our community is older/busier?). I think most tracks cost more now due to safety stuff, not entirely sure on specifics as its been awhile. I can't talk for admin but I don't think you would find anyone who is willing to take that risk on anymore ($4-6k initial outlay, then herding cats to get entries and money back). Drag day seems like the way for OS racing events, cheap, easier on the cars and gets the numbers pretty easy. Anyway talk to admin.

It will run off load on the motor? some combo of temp,map/afm, tps, engine speed? can't really remember but ECU control with multiple variables surely.

Some top coat lacquer I have sprayed is 1:1 reduction on the datasheets, meant to do 6+ coats to finish it. First couple go on real thin then cheese it on. If yours is like this you want to try dial it in better before doing it on anything final, I'd spray a whole test panel all the way through several coats and use it to dial things in. What comes out the gun gives you the feedback to get it right, just take the time (ages). Oh and give extra time between coats to be safe.

Yeah man outside for us is the best unless you drop coin on a extraction fan. That's how I did the buick taolgate the second time and all my 2k primer.

I'd go 2 part, it's most likely illegal to spray it but it's so much more durable. Like a million times better. In my opinion you would have to wear the wrong mask to psychically fell ill effects on your system from the isocyanates in urethane paint. Although some people may be hyper sensitive? I can never smell paint in my mask. Read here (it's one of the first things that popped up on google, they actually say it's not even that bad in paint form, well sorta) http://www.safeworkaustralia.gov.au/sites/SWA/about/Publications/Documents/514/Isocyanates.pdf anyway I wore a 3M face mask, put a film of wax/grease barrier shit on my exposed face bits, googles, a paint suit and sprayed a million things. The ciggies I have smoked in the past probably have fucked me up more haha. Be safe though and spray with ventilation of some kind. 1k acrylic will be easier and cheaper for sure but polyurethane is the superior technology.

Its a one day job to clean it out and run POR 15 or KBS tank kit through it. I wouldn't drive it until the tank was cleaned out.

Mechanical fan will do the job. Need to monitor with pressure gauges at idle on a hot day to really see if its good enough but it should be.

Its pretty easy to cobble together a system. You will need to identify what kind of regulation the factory system used or what you want to use. (I imagine it's cycling clutch, but it may also have a accumulator etc). The most proprietary piece of this is the evaporator under the dash, it will be in a moulded case so your factory fan and vents can connect, you need this first. The rest is easy to use generic shit, buy a new condenser for the front, a modern parallel flow one is like $100 and will work better than the OG one. Bolt up the compressor and make some new lines, probably new TX valve, get it oiled and gassed and see if it works.

3M half mask and real good ventilation, full mask is what you should use but its hard to not fog up. Just move the air and be careful, I would spray all this outside.

It will be fine, although best results are wet coat it with a top coat 2K urethane, I like a cheap industrial black for all this kind of work (under car, inside, engine bay etc). Can lay down 2 coats of epoxy, then 2 coats wet of top coat and that shit will last forever if you prepped it well.

Oh and 2 part epoxy primer over weld through in a can all day, just test them both and the results are easy to see. Epoxy gets even better at taking the heat with welding when well cured, so you have to wait a few days after prepping parts for welding for best results. Its no problem to mix up some epoxy primer in a pot and paint with a brush (for small rust repairs or larger panels to be welded in etc), it will just waste quite a bit of paint. Many times its better than setting up the gun and getting a mask though. Like weld in a panel, dress it flat then want to fuck off, just mix some up in a pot and its sealed forever until you want to bog and block.

I started fixing my tailgate last year (it fell off the hinges when freshly painted) started the job and forgot my friend borrowed both my primer and my top coat gun and messed them up so they needed rebuilds (no parts on hand) So bought a $50 bunnings 1.4mm gravity gun, painted primer with it just thinned the epoxy more than the data sheet says and did a extra coat or two. block sand the primer smooth anyway. Then base went on pretty good with lots of practice, its thin anyway so easier to spray. Clear is harder with a cheap gun, lots of test pieces to get the smoothest possible result, still orange peely after 4-5 coats it builds up the peel effect. Still can block it smooth and no one knows. Its nice to not have to block as much, but who cares. Not sure what the point is, guess you can use a cheap gun from primer through top coat and get good enough results. But there's lots of details along the way that you will have to pick up to get it all working smoothly and not be stressing or blaming or worrying about the gun.

Cast will turn to dust in acid, hardened steel it can crack it from the hydrogen embrittlement? I don't know the term/science. Anyway a spring or a hard bolt will go black and if you leave them long enough go brittle & weird. Panel steel just pickles and pits a little generally when left too long.

Yea all good man just pointing out whats going on here so its all clear, letting guys know they can set up citric acid which is the same thing without the goop. Working with acid is safe and easy, phosphoric use in smaller buckets and parts you want clean fast, it will clean shitty bolts and parts in a few hours, its not cost effective to do on large scale. Citric in a 1000l tub you could jump in its very mild, takes 1-2 days to clean parts lasts for months and months just clean the mould off and/or chuck in some bleach

Just use phosphoric acid, or for more gentle use citric acid. The molasis has acid in it from bacteria that eat the sugar, it's like the messiest way to do a acid dip ever? It's nice and gentle but so is citric acid and you can make 1000l for about $80, not sure if molasis is that economical? Said it before but no hardened steel should be soaked in acids for long periods so depends what parts are stuck Hemi.

It just has some mild acid in it form bacteria eating the sugar right? Citric acid is cheaper and cleaner? Good work though, acid washing rusty parts is the go for home DIY.

That wagon looks like as much or more of a money pit than the sports cars.

Prep it like you would paint it, how can it be blasted and have rust pits? this is confusing, drop it in acid and then before coating clean it with steel wool and solvent, then wax and grease with a cloth and coat. As long its clean white steel that has been keyed then coat it

Just use phosphoric acid and clean with water then white spirits. Some companies offer zinc and other shit with the acid to coat the metal (metal ready etc) I always get better results with just acid, the guys can clean it with iso or something when they get it, should most likely be blasted anyway?

Once you use it to soak parts (no hardened steel) then you'll never look back and you'll curse the over inflated shop front prices haha. Especially if you own a rust bucket. Citrus acid is weaker but more cost effective for soaking big parts also (20kg bag for $30-50 and 40kg will make maybe 1000l or more of solution, takes days to convert the rust) As above no multilayer panels should be exposed to acids where you can't get fuck loads of water in to clean it out.

Red oxide and house paint will form rust underneath it for sure.

Use nothing but 2 part epoxy primer on bare steel, you can roll it but you will waste fuck loads.

Yea man I assumed they mean a big ass hot water blaster thing. A regular steam cleaner will work the same magic on a engine bay with way more work but also more finesse, seen them work magic on real dirty baked on car exteriors (like barn find shit). Steam cleaners are the car retailers magic tool of choice after a good DA polisher. Anyway just some OT ramblings, carry on.