Spencer

I think the setup is blow though carb so the tune is baked in.

And oh so simple, no pump failure and melty engine. Can you run something wider? In the pic it seems so?

You would probably be surprised how much air is moving around in there at speed.

Yeah as adoom says once you are using the aclohol as a coolant you cannot help but also using it as a fuel source so you have to tune your whole setup for the "coolant" then if you have a failure you go lean. So the cooling system has to be treated as an secondary fuel system which can never fail. Seems what you may save in perceived simplicity you gain a whole new stack of risk as you are reliant on another active fuel system to be working correctly at all times. Giz passive cooling from air any day on a street car.

From running some ghetto methanol suck through turbo things there is no doubt it works amazing, the phase change of the meth draws out shit loads of heat and would make the manifolds cold to touch. But isn't it just another form of complexity and point of failure similar to the other options? always have to have it full and pumps working, got to keep meth around which doesn't have a long shelf life?. Make the air to air work for simplest option? I'm sure you can work around the body work covering it with some simple ducting and engineer some new bonnet latch setup? /ling

Um yeah man something went horribly wrong with that original paint job. Could be anything but as said above it could have had some contamination on the steel, sat around in 1k primer/bog and absorbed moisture etc. I would want to take all that off and get some 2k epoxy primer down to seal it up for good.

Yeah looks like what happens when you bog on bare steel and its gets moisture in it, or you leave a car sitting around with 1k etch or high build primers I have seen similar things. Just general failure of whatever paint system/methods were used on the respray. Epoxy for life when you fix it.

Sweet ride, pretty jelly. That article about lowering improving efficiency says tests were done at 150kph lol

Yeah I had a set done, pulled apart chromed and welded it was like 10 years ago so cannot remember who did it. They came out mint, used them for a few years and sold them to Sam, he told me later that the chrome all peeled off so not really a win there. Keen to see a custom chassis on a Crown as we have talked about it for a million years. All the swaps apart from JZ shit are a big compromise due to the available space.

Hell yeah looking good. Just cut the chassis off at the firewall and fab up a new front end to fit the v12, not much room in these things for much more than a 6 banger really.

Yeah man chuck whatever on it pretty much, this for under car?

I think its basically a fact that all hondas go harder with a 3" zaust? Just have to put up with the noise. You can probably dig through the dead forums and find a million dynos on honda shit (with dead pic links ). You definitely can for K20/24 every combo of parts has been tested if you look.

Yeah should try get the shorter front kyb’s that work in these they have firmer valving which helps heaps with the ride and will give you some spring preload. Have to look up what they are. Sounds like those rear shocks are shit? Sometimes the ones that were short and work are off trucks like hiluxs and are way too firm maybe. I have had rear shocks shortened for this kinda thing in the past to get something sorted cheap that rides good.

Yeah well if the bumps aren't cut down and lots of spring has been cut out then it will ride like a bag of dicks.

OK good news, the 1GGE is not a torque monster so manual is a better option. For the lowering you need to determine if its spring rate or shocks making it ride shit (maybe both). You may not have a reference point to feel what is going on but because the springs are too hard/soft (cutting them makes them firmer) or if its just the shock not dampening enough making in waffle around. Most of these wakas I have messed around with you cut the springs and use a new KYB shorter shock up front (celica or whatever it was with spacer underneath) my one was live axle so cut springs and some shorter KYBs off the shelf to stop the spring falling out. Done that same thing on a few cars MX71, ae86 etc etc and they ride good enough for poor mans lowering. Kinda sounds like it might have shit shocks as cut springs are kinda proven to ride OKish in this situation. You only need short enough shocks to keep the springs located, other than that the actual dampening is what matters. The Celica KYB's we would run in everything are firmer that stock and the rears were firm also, cant remember what they were from though. Think the bumps should be cut in half front and back for some more travel is the standard mod, make some burnout smoke with the grinder to cut them.

So regarding the trans you can use a micro squirt to run the Toyota A341E which is super common behind soarers and surpas and a million things in the 90s. You will be able to setup a 1G bell housing and converter I’m sure they came behind 1G’s. The supra one shifts crisp and you can bang the gears, other ones from normal cars a more sad but you can get shift kits and shit. When I was messing with them there was no controller but the microsquirt trans thing was finally made and should be sweet.

Yeah all the same, there's like 10 options for brands so you could cross reference the gates part number etc if you wanted to be sure.

^ this is the only way. Find your Protec supplier and use 408 epoxy. Protec also do cheap black industrial spec 2K urethane top coats which are great for this kinda thing.

I would scotch brite it with wax and grease at a minimum, see what happens. Or spray a patch then sand it back to test.

The test is when you sand it back, have had epoxy stick not so well to a bunch of things when you start sanding. When block sanding you will go through your epoxy and/or high build primer and that is the real test, if you have some shit adhesion at the base layer (like some shit single stage rust primer or badly prepped steel) the edges don't feather and things come off in little clumps leaving sharp edges, just making more work by needing filler etc to fix it. Then in the back of your mind for the next 10 years that your paint job is stuck on real shit. You get away with it on internal fix ups where you just poo it on and walk away, it sticks so well to itself that it doesn't go anywhere.

Just bail on it, don't need to mess with no 10 year old car throwing codes. Unless the code is a feature and you are getting it cheap because of something you know how to fix.

No idea man, I had to google it. Most paint companies have those general use acrylic urethane top coats but not sure what the finish is like. What do you want to do with it? Generally for top coats its just base-coat + 2k urethane clear if you want metallic or a nice looking clear coat finish, or a automotive single stage 2k urethane for plain colours but they can look kinda plasticy and weird on old cars that originally had a lacquer or enamel paint job IMO.

Yeah something went wrong, 2 part epoxy will usually stick pretty good even to a poorly prepped surface. So using the data sheet for something like the protec 408 epoxy primer it says to sandblast your metal or sand it until clean and coat it. Says if you are using new sheet metal to use their acid wash (which is phosphoric acid) to remove the oils, read the data sheet for the acid wash it says to use steel wool to apply and wash with water so you are washing and scouring it, then wax and grease before painting. This is how I learnt from a couple restoration body work guys, backed up by the data sheets of most paint systems. Now epoxy is used as a sealer of old paint so it does stick to other shit and usually well. But you want to test it out and if you go all the way to bare metal I don't see why you would want anything else under it, especially a rust converter primer, they don't have the same adhesion as magic chemically cured 2 part epoxies. http://www.ppglic.com.au/uploads/tds/408 Epotec Epoxy Primer (2).pdf So for all applications its pretty much clean white sanded/scotch brite steel clean with wax and grease and then apply 2 part epoxy. If you have pitting or want to clean it then acid wash with phosphoric, neutralise with water. I would still key the metal up again with scotch brite after the acid wash to remove everything as you can get some residue if the acid wash got dry. Anything else is garbage IMO. Then for safety as said modern epoxy cures with polyamide, old school ones used amine or something toxic (not a chemist). So 2 part epoxy is very similar as other single stage paints as far as safety goes, ie don't breath it and avoid getting it on the skin and eyes. It doesn't have the extra death factor of polyurethane which cure with isocyanate, anyone who has sprayed urethane clear knows how deadly that shit smells.

You would have to look into the laws in your area, ie here in Brisbane the law is vauge and some spray painting at home is allowed as long as it is not commercial. You have to look it up, It was legal to spray my car in the driveway and I asked/told the neighbours about it. I mean guys reseal roofs with spray in open atmosphere, I have seen the exterior of homes spray painted. Case by case for your council. Bling phosphoric acid is not hard core, I buy the bunnings shit and dilute it a little further depending on the job. It doesn't sting the skin and fuck all fumes unless you boxed yourself in with a bath of it working. You can do the same thing with citric acid or vinegar for sure but the phosphoric seems to be just the right zing for panels where it takes 15-30min instead of 4 hours, when I was soaking shit in citric acid baths it takes 24-48h to work. Unsure about anything else as using acid is the gold standard as far as I have learned. As for spraying safety I had looked it up a millon times but looked again. Modern 2 part epoxy primers are only considered mild irritants and only fuck you up over long term exposure without correct PPE which can give you allergic type reactions, they do not cure with isocyanates. They are just as shitty as exposure to single stage solvent curing paints basically so wear a mask and its all good. Its the polyurethane ( urethane primer, single stage top coats,clears etc) that cure with isocyantate and are considered extra death spec which gets absorbed through the skin and can build up toxicity.

Yeah have to be careful. If you look into it most epoxy primer isn't too bad, its the urethane top coats that have max isocyanate and will murder you. 3M face mask with the correct filters and some eye protection and you will live, its only primer so do it outside in the driveway for extra safe points. In straya you can buy phosphoric acid at Bunnings in the paint thinners section under the name ranex, its expensive but convenient. Problem with single stage solvent cured paint is its million years old technology. Nothing beats a good 2 part epoxy primer for adhesion to metal, same for top coats urethane lasts for a zillion years and is low upkeep.