Goat

I believe for re-registrations. You need a signed stat dec declaring your ownership. (I haven't actually re-registered something thats just lapsed, I've only done fresh import registrations). Have a chat to your complaince place of choice, either vinz or vtnz, maybe AA? and tell them what you want to do and they should be able to tell you the papers you need. As far as the check goes, I think they will require you to do a brake declaration. (I've had to do this for every vehicle I've registered, for both bikes and a cars). You can fill this out yourself and sign it. Basically says "I declare that this is the condition of the brakes". You should budget new pads atleast. Again, ask your compliance place of choice, as they have different style of forms with pretty much the same shit in it. Anything else, I'm pretty sure its just a good old wof check. You've got 20 working days to fix stuff just like a wof. They could be super picky with rust/underside damage, and if they find any, chances are they will want a repair certification. I haven't needed one of these, but these are $$$. So best case scenario, it will be an expensive wof. Worst case, it could be a nightmare. hah. Yay for our re registration process! Though I think the most painful hurdle is the paperwork. And the fact its in carjam provides the most important piece - proof of previous registration. Just need to make sure they will be happy with a stat dec declaring yourself as the new owner. I'd def check this with the compliance place you use, as everyone seems to have conflicting requirement. I've been told this is all that's required from my local VTNZ. New import vehicles require different stuff.

Kilim!

I've found a 12v armature for 100gbp shipped. So will get that on the way. 99.9% sure the field coil is fine. Which it should be as the bike hasn't been used much since the conversion (apparently). Plus I'm scared to take the old field coil out as previous butcher mechanic had really given the retaining screws a hiding. Need a whole heap of other small bits n bobs too, but can't find a single place that has everything which is a pain. So have to double up on 25quid shipping. Will get a new brush holder plate and brushes at the same time. Hopefully make it a legit lightning machine. Will report back once I've acquired and installed new gubbins for thread closure. Thank-you my bros

Thank you my friend.

Chair my dudes. High resistance cant be good tbh. That matchless site is really good. Thats what ive been following to get to this point. But yeah, everything there points to armature being chooched. Might just fork out for one of those. To start with anyway....

Yeah. Reploarised. Seems to hold enough magnetic magic to make 1.5 to 2 volts. But wont climb more than that by itself. 12v on field coil and it goes hard. But still wont keep itself going if i take the boltage off the field coil

It may come as a shock, but I am having some issues with a lucas dynamo. Wondering if anyone on here could shed some light on my situation. Its a Lucas E3L dynamo from 1949. At some point in its life its been uprated to 12v with a new field coil and a new armature. Both look pretty ham. Bike is -ve Earth. The problem i'm having is that it only makes around 1.5v at idle (and only climbs as high as 2 volts as revs increase). This is measuring voltage between D and ground. If i connect the F (field) and D (Dynamo output) together and measure the voltage between these and ground its around 0.5v. If I put 12v on the F terminal, I get 20v output. This is to be expected as its got a good magnetic charge to generate against. So it looks like it's not making enough juice to self excite. Connecting F and D is meant to feed output into the field coil making more magnetic field thus increasing output. So this is how you test them. What i've checked: Stripped and cleaned. Sanded commutator, tidied up brushes etc. Runs as a DC motor when connected to battery F & D to 12v. Ground to body. (runs in correct direction too - clockwise) Field coil is about 5.5 ohms. So that seems fine. Putting 12v on field coil makes a real strong electro magnet! Armature seems to be between 26 and 160 odd ohms across the windings (each pair on the commutator). This seems high compared to internet literature, i should be seeing about 0.6ohm. Nothing is open and nothing is direct short... so it seems all good asides from high resistance values. Seems to be about about 26 ohms between ANY sections of the commutator (are these meant to be isolated from eachother except for the opposite side??) So yeah, not sure whats going on. Could be the armature? Has anyone had any dabblings with dynamos/generators.? INB4 its lucas so replace it with modern stuff etc. I'd like to keep it OG as she's 70 years old this year! Chair

I can pick you up G. Wherever the evening takes us.

Following with interest

yes

Sad to see the misery you've been through (other than subjecting yourself to another British vehicle). But glad to see you've got a bit of a second wind. Looking forward to seeing this go from its current state to back on the road! Hoping you rebuild the original engine. Keen to see that process with your high level of documentation.

Oh boy, Looking forward to watching you give another vehicle the "kws" treatment.

It was so effective, that it actually ate away the bottom of the fuel tank. Turns out it was mostly just rust holding it together. Parts are almost unobtanium, and my Scottish and Dutch heritage make it difficult to for out money for a good condition one. So i just mothballed it for a few months. Bought more bikes in the meantime, turned them into projects, and now came back to this. I stripped the tank back to bare metal to see what i had to deal with: It was swiss cheese, but a few hours with the tig i managed to get it holding gas! I ended up having to just plate over the whole area as it was so thin and just kept cracking the welds. A lick of paint, and its just like a new one: Popped the carbs through the ultrasonic cleaner and reassembled: I get it all back together, pop some fresh gas in it. And it fires right up. On all 4. Perfect! Oh, but wait. No it wasnt, theres a sweet smell of coolant in the air, and if I stopped it for 30 seconds and re-started it. A solid column of stem comes out of the right exhaust, and the expansion tank bubbles when i rev it. Cool one, nice. The other headgasket is blown... Ah well, i'm well familiar with this process: Cleaned up the surfaces, fortunately this cylinder head was in a lot better condition than the other one. So just needed a clean, then wanged it back together with the other gasket i already had in stock. She runs, beautifully, no combustion in coolant, no coolant in combustion. All cylinders run at the same temp. Revs up to redline, and starts before you've even finished pressing the starter! I'll call that a success. For now anyway. Giving the wiring clump a bit of a tickle up, then i can put the rear back on and take it for its first ride since i've owned it! Then i can switch back to the Laverda, as i've now got all the bits i need to assemble the engine! And now, hopefully, my bike stand will be free so i can put some other turd on there.

The misery continues. I finally got it all back together and running. Then it started to run really badly. I.E. not at all on the cylinders on the side i had just done the headgasket on. Oh boy. I double checked all the cam timing, and that was all good. So must be the carbs (again). So whipped them off for a 2nd stripdown and clean. I had noticed that the fuel lines had all turned dark brown. Hmm. Rust in the tank? Yep. yay... Better pull the tank out. What a fucking mission. I got the tank out, and yep, she was rough. Tuel sender shows the condition of the inside of the tank: Yummo. I ended up buying some CRC evaporust and soaked the sender in it just to see if it met its miraculous claims. Yep, I'll be dipped, it sure did. A++ Cool one, nice. I'll get some more and fill the whole tank! Over the course of a couple of weeks I was rotating the tank around letting it do its magic. It was working a charm!

Thats rad! Looks like it could have been a factory model!

Good luck on your quest. Hope it all goes well. Scary that its all or nothing. But gotta pay the cost to be the boss eh? @Nominal is our resident wooden car enthusiast. He may know a thing or two or who might know a thing or two.

Does anyone know a good supplier of total oils that take online orders/delivery? Most I've found online are all "Give us a call". Nah bro, fuck that. No ppl please. Take my money and send me the goods without any interaction!

As Bling said, You have to prove its been on the road in NZ before. Can be a mish if there is no plate or docs. Best bet is if you can track down if a dealer has records of that car coming into NZ. Even if it has plates, this still isnt a good enough reason for nzta if the plates don't come up in LANDATA. Anything that was deregistered pre 90s won't have any records. You will need to fill out an Alt Docs form (here) and submit that to nzta or a lengthy approval process. Its a mickey mouse AF, as the form is for vehicles with no history, but the form says you have to provide vehicle history with it. Basically you need to build a case with evidence that this hasn't been imported as a stolen vehicle, or you aren't trying to re-create another car from parts etc. Basically, too hard basket, look for another car tbh irl.

Oh boy, Thoroughly enjoy your amazingly detailed automotive tales and updates. Looking forward to watching the kws swift tart up!

gorirra burger in whitby? (for April)

More pics please

Shit yeah, Had this on my watchlist. Drum front candy pink 2 stroke. All boxes ticked Good to see it on here!

Not a very exciting update. Its all back together and running. Though seems to be throwing oil out the captains side front cylinder... yay. Probably should have done both gaskets while I was there.... Hopefully an Italian tune will sort it. It has been sitting since 1998! While i'm waiting for exhaust bits to turn up. I put on some new rear shocks, and whipped off the front end to replace the super notchy steering head bearings, and fit new stanchions and seals. Races out and a clean: Painted up the triple trees so they don't look as ham: Forks in bits. The stanchions weren't rusty, they had worn through the chrome in one spot. So did need replacing. An expensive endeavor The early wings (75-77) had a weird 2 seal arrangement. The replacment seals only had one, hopefully that won't be a problem. We'll see.

Clutch didn't look bad, cage was ham, wacked it back together as is, but ordered a new cage, which i now have (and have for months). Such a cunt to change though. Will just try adjusting the cable and the throw out mechanism. Hopefully its just something there. Gotta pull the lever all the way to get it to disengage.

The geqrchange itself is super positive on this. A nice caaa-liiiicckk into each gear. No false neutrals. Only problem is i think the clutch is dragging ever so slightly. Which makes finding neutral almost impossible with engine running. Will do some adjustments see if i can stop it dragging. Tis really nice otherwise. Scared it will stall at the lights, as you cant really start it straddling the bike...