Mr Revhead

Push the bar pin out using a vice and appropriate sized sockets/pipe/whatever etc. If I'm reading right you will need to swap them into the Isuzu shocks to mount to the Hiace? Then get new bush's to suit the taper of the Isuzu shock and the od of the bar pin. Autolign do many types of taper bushs in single piece and two piece. In both rubber and urethane. I used to do it all the time when I was at Autolign. Either Ian didn't click as to what you wanted, or he was having an off/lazy day.

try an oil catch can to remove oil fumes, worked awesome on my 101. be sure to take feeds from both pipes from the rocker cover. a few different ways to do it, with each having slightly different results. no need to rest ecu when replacing knock sensor, the ecu doesn't store that fault, replacing the knock sensor instantly cures that issue. be a sad sad world if your ecu was that slow to react dead knock sensors throws ECL, code 52. The leaky caps is mainly a 101 problem i think, will cause arse running and stalling with no fault codes. among other things. Also check timing, should be set with ecu in diag mode, (bridge two terminals, e1 and te1 iirc) blacktops are petty border line on out fuels with pre ignition

rule of herald corning never lift off. ever.

i learnt to drive in a wagon gutless evil handling things! though i have seen some rapid vitesses. rear suspension is the worst part of them that and the scuttle shake

ZE crank is the same as all other 4age cranks from redtop onwards.... TRD only do head gaskets, not the head set. stock head gasket is good for plenty of boost, so you would only need the TRD one if you were after a small compression increase or mass boost. new genuine gasket set is cheap and has everything in it bar injector o'rings. stock headbolts are also upto the job, so you dont need ARP ones unless going extreme or will have the head off a few times. but i would go with ARP rodbolts. but then again i dont know shit

yes the 4agze has better PISTONS, but its been proven many times that the bigports can handle boost. what i suggested is a good cheap and effective option that improves many aspects of the car. if the poster decides another option suits him better, fine. i will live. but he has asked for opinions. and they have been given. wayne... cheap remarks? your the one who launched into a failed attempt to get at me. again (jeez you really are obsessed with me arnt you ) as i just mentioned, my suggestion is a good one that would make a huge improvment over a stock AW11. ok he may not want to go that way, fine. but its still a good option. heres another good suggestion... GET OVER IT. you have tried many times to get at me, going to some pretty low, immature and rather under handed lengths of dubious legaility and you have failed every time. ffs grow up or are you going to get your flatmate to lay false complaints with my work again? i really wish you would just drive down here and look me in the eye when you spout off your bs in future please keep your petty bs off the forums. either ring me or come see me.

i knew you wouldnt be able to keep ya pie hole shut wayne my car when you went in it, has no relation to this thread at all. try again

2TZ-FZE from a estma! 2.4 s/c engine that lies on its side

buy a good running redtop bigport, a pully kit and a water to air intercooler (legacy or GT4) slap all the s/c gear on the redtop, install the IC do the ABV mod. away you go laughing then sell the dud 4agze longblock for prob what you paid for the redtop. and spend the $$$ you have left over on the suspension and rust repairs

your not the "boy" or apprentice are you?

edwards are good buggers. not sure wht they like at rust though. pretty good on smash stuff. theres just rust in tawa

ill see. may take a few days i havnt got a scanner, and cant think of anyone off hand i know who does

yeah, but unless you can find the turbo/supercharger training manual online....

if you have a fax i can fax you the diagram of the air lines

yeah give them a call. then at least you can honestly say youv tried everything before stopping the payment

no, you cant. you must use factory rails (dont have to be from that car) and stock locating points. alter those and you need a cert.

when desiging a cage, go sit by ya car, and visulise the bars and load paths. imagine where the stress occour, and wear you shift them too with bars. you have to be careful, remember the pictures of the GT40 and GT4 celica on a recent thread here? the GT4 had a full cage up to the firewall, transferred all stress from rear suspension forwards to the firewall, cage didnt go through the firewall. resulting in cracking to the point they almost didnt finish get a copy of the MSNZ manual, and read the rules and look at the diagrams there.

yep, as above. iv been on the sellers end of that while its a pita if you send the wrong stuff, you need to sort it.

card payments can be reversed if needs be

i was under the impression it had to be registered as a 2 seater, not certed as one.

its not that hard when thought about and done properly

yep. which is why you dont however connecting the housing the suspension bolts to, to the cage is fine. basiclly the bar that will run sideways in the main hoop near the floor will butt up to the 4 links housings.

as with wof, cert leaves room for the persons opinion. ill be four linking my starlet, but ill have the housings beefed up by the roll cage so im not expecting any cracking!

the 350 stands for 350kg!!! my vote for the 289/302 windsor! compact, MORE parts for it than the chev, and a better design.

yeah trick is pressure feeds into a box the carb is in, NOT into a carb that has a box around it