Jase

yep understand that kk, ld28t then mq boxes no overdriven ratios ie 4 speeds up to mq diffs. axle strength and cv strength is fairly robust with these so only a true tough hookup of a tire would see an axle break and sticking to lsds over lockers will give stored energy an out.

plus I reckon George would approve

its purpose in life will be to be a landy like no other chap, will have 35's an the 12volt tipper I was saving for my ute. so firewood collection, rock crawling, trailer towing and commuting to work. not really to much of a fuck around actually far simpler to do than twin transfer cases. its an idea i've had dormant since driving those trucks I suppose and driving the mt moka track in a landcruiser on my honeymoon with too taller crawl ratio highlighted it. If you've ever been up there its just over towards Cromwell off the thompsons road track, very rocky very steep and very off camber in a top heavy rental camper landcruiser. 1st in lowbox felt downright freakin horrible especially when it was cocking a leg up some of the steps and ledges. So I'm getting old and I'd like to go slower ok?

little rover is getting a safari driveline with a difference, more gears, another 4 speed will be sitting infront of the other that has the transfer case attached, remembering the trucks at the limeworks had super high crawl ratios but were a bit thought provoking to shift with two 4 spd boxes also, I wonder whether an overrun coupler between the boxes would alleviate some of those issues. thoughts please truckers

looks like fun? did you drop a gear ? heard a crunch/rattle clunk midway in? you'll be fine without the compensator imo, I have an ld28 or two running the ve pump and a manual here if you want to adjust rebuild or time the thing.

what do you reckon it'll cost you, thinking of buying a section at the beach and making a container bach, friends of ours have a very similar set up at waitomo except ply lined internally and a little more retro

I'm looking to take my spare ld28 cam in for a regrind to suit running a turbo a little more and to move the torque curve towards the low end. the ld28 we run in the bush truck absolutely hisses at 4500-5300 but doesn't really do much till then. I'm guessing its a combination of a camshaft profile more suited to a road car with no turbo along with possibly the pump timing being a little out. Now tell me if I'm correct in my reasoning if we can get more duration on the cam it will induce a little more air which should help with the spool up, along with a little more lift to make the airs path a little easier. Not forgetting that more air means we run more fuel to keep the engine from leaning out and making piss all power. Anyone delved into this with something to add?

like camping?^ I wonder how bad the vibration/harmonics would be with fully balanced everything? as they say the modified I had a couple laps probably killed my kids for a month yet that was a modified running on dirt.

install some vents along above the bottom plate between each stud or you'll rot your lining and framing out. my shed was lined before I bought it and removed the lining to find the bottom plate was mush from the condensation off the cladding due to the lack of building paper.

put a set of coilpacks on it then , if its visible cracked an leaking its guts out it will short and miss, I always found the series 2 coilpacks were better not the boxy square series 1 ones

VN Computer V6 Fault Codes V6 Code 12 - System Pass (OK) Code 13 - Oxygen Sensor (O2) Code 14 - Coolant temperature Sensor - Voltage Too Low Code 15 - Coolant temperature Sensor - Voltage Too High Code 16 - Coolant Temperature Sensor - Voltage Unstable Code 17 - PCM Coolant Temperature Circuit Code 19 - Throttle Position Sensor Code 21 - Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) - Voltage Too High Code 22 - Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) - Voltage Too Low Code 23 - Mass Air Temp Sensor (MAT) - Voltage Too High Code 24 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Code 25 - Mass Air Temp Sensor (MAT) Sensor or Circuit - Voltage Too Low Code 26 - Mass Air Temp Sensor (MAT) Sensor or Circuit - Voltage Unstable Code 28 - Transmission Problem Code 31 - Theft Deterrent System - Missing Signal Code 32 - Manifold Airflow (MAF) Sensor or Circuit Code 33 - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP) - Voltage Too High Code 34 - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP) - Voltage Too Low Code 35 - Idle Speed Error Code 36 - Vacuum Leak Code 41 - Crank Angle Sensor Code 42 - Electronic Spark Timing Circuit (EST) Code 43 - Knock Sensor Circuit Code 44 - Oxygen Sensor Lean (O2) Code 45 - Oxygen Sensor Rich (O2) Code 51 - Memcal Unit - Check for bent pins Code 52 - CALPAK Unit - Check for bent pins Code 53 - System Over-Voltage - Alternator produced > 17.1 Volts for more than 2 seconds Code 55 - ECM - Check ECM Grounds or excessive input voltage so the light should flash for 1 sec for the tens then a 2 sec gap then at 1 sec intervals for 1's, ie a twelve would be one flash 2 sec gap 2 flashes, then say a 53 would be 5 flashes a 2 sec gap then 3 flashes. the diagnostic will spit all the logged fault codes at you so you may get a few numbers written down stop writing once you're back to the first code you wrote. just on a side note pull the plug from your coil pack and check the female ports all grip a pin firmly, pretty common for these to loosen if the loom is pulled tight on them, also take your coilpacks off and have a good visual inspection of them as they often crack underneath giving you a short

full throttle run out by the airport on the proper track, they don't run when an event is on obviously, so best call them if planning a Saturday.

yeah but its an action or inaction thing i'm a thoughtful chap and i'd hate to see it go awry on or after your build . I respect your sentiment though my neighbours wonder what i'm up to all the time Uploaded with ImageShack.us garden shedderdore corned beef edition

concur but we got piles chap, house our size 90sq is just on 15 odd tonne (mate is a house mover)

yeah well its not just punching shear i'd worry about as i'm guessing your car probably doesn't have a 50:50 weight split and get centred over its point of balance every time it goes up. you may well find you dramatically increase the punch shear on one set of bolts and literally be torqueing the other set out if the car goes up a bit to far forward or back of its centre of balance. if in doubt go big and as they said spread the load. chap I know was a serviceman and certifier of these things in garages also did work for insurance companies for liability claims when dodgy installs went wrong, heard countless horror stories

vsd can be used to switch single to three phase probably cost less than getting three phase hooked in. blow using just 100mm for a 2 post unless you have heaps of reinforcing and have had the hardness increased on your concrete. digging a footing and casting a big plate in there with the bolts sticking up would be the go. shit if it goes wrong probably only one end of the car would stove the ground?

i like kpr's thoughts on the matter a tuneable manifold will increase the driveability of the vehicle which i reckon is more useful than a lightswitch powerband due to either oem manifold constraints or poor design. seems like a cheap mod to me that'd be worth consideration

solid works is the shit

ok now how about for diesels ? turbo ld28 has daggy factory manifold with long runners very small plenum and very small intake at one end. I expecially like that audi design as it would convert a turbulent mass of swirling air into a sheet of uniform air to be drawn into the bell mouth and runners . I reckon a bath analogy might work pull the plug on the bath and start scrubbing the scum off ,the water becomes waves with uneven flow going down the plug, put a board across the plug end with a gap underneath and even though theres turbulence in one end the flow will be even at the plug. the pressure drop from the small intake runner through to the main plenum through the slot would likely give the air a very standardised turbulence and density as it enters the main plenum. i'd love to see a smoke cutaway video of that working

question regarding modified suspension pickup points and rust repair on chassis. landrover has some thin tin in the rear of the the rails a couple bits at thee front and at the bottom of the front cab outriggers. I've cut the shit out and have been plating with 3mm steel (standard 2.5mm) plug welded plates inside rail to support all repairs will this require a repair cert from a panelbeater? the only obvious repair is the replaced rear x member (brand new). next question putting 70 series diffs and suspension under it can I remove the factory pickup points and weld or squash tube/bolt on the cruiser ones ? having 6mm u plates folded up to slip over the chassis which I'm going to weld and gusset the factory cruiser mounts to? factory hand brake is on the drive shaft can the cruiser diffs handbrake assembly be utilised as fiddle brakes with the levers removed for road use?

I got a bosch one that I pulled from a mates workshop bin about 10 years ago, no variable speed but is very handy. was ment to have run a bearing still goes great although I use it maybe once a month

originals are 23 spline but not a borg diff, they are same as an early commodore run same size drums etc, if your mate goes with a borg I have some 25 spline aXles already set up with 4x100. he'd have to use a vl diff though. 4 link without coilovers could be tricky as the spring perches are in front of the diff tube, unless you use modified commodore lower arms as they have a spring perch built in

bw78 under a vn how to undo the pinion nut without a rattle gun

as long as its the later housing it seems as i have vpss diff here as well I test fitted to a vn carrier, biggest thing with the bw is the whine caused by the pinion crush bush flogging out, fix is to put a solid one in at the correct depth, remember also the earlier bw78 carriers are narrower and although the gearsets swap the lsds/heads won't as they got wider from vn onwards exception being vl turbo and v8 which got the wider carrier and also the 2l vn which got the narrower earlier one.

bw78 in mine atm, 2 pin lsd from early falcon with 25 spline axles from a vl, 3.23 gears for the glide with 15's may yet go 2.92's, after I upgrade to a vs centre I can run billet 31 spline axles with the later carrier. gears available up to 4.11s (out of 2l vn) and the lsds swap out between breeds I have a 4 pin falcon lsd in my newer carrier from a vt II