sholdowa

There's got to be something up with that valve - maybe the head's overheated badly in the past. Or you've got the redline set at 8,500. I take it the lobe is ok??

From memory it's 10 thou in, 12 ex with a standard cam. Hopefully someone can confirm.

Hey Jase, welcome. Accelerator pump diaphragm is a common failure, so no worry there. As for the vacuum, the hose over to the brake servo could be the culprit, but I'd do the standard stuff: points/condensor/leads and get the valve clearances right ( you need a bent spanner, or to take the carb off to get some of then adjusted ). As all that is pretty cheap, then I'd get it done, then see what gets worse. These motors will go for ever unless you rev the bollocks off an old and worn one!

I've got a few bits needing surface rust removing. Can anyone recommend a place round christchurch?? Ta, Steve

vintage meet little river tomorrow 1st Jan. know very little about it, but c.100 cars expected.

this happened to me on a mk.1 crappi. i took the back off the ignition barrel, used the key to ensure the steering lock stayed off, and started it with a screwdriver in the slot in the back. messy but got me home

cortina, capri... they were all the same. The Sierra ones'll be higher output.

AIUI you need about 50psi ( which is about 3 bar, or 300kPa ) to run an injection system. If you're still measuring that on your system, could it be that what you're seeing is the max pressure on the pump before the relief valve opens, and there's a constriction somewhere in the piping - probably before the fuel rail as it'd probably go rich if it was after it. Can you check plenty of fuel is being returned, or the fuel pressure at the return to tank/swirl pot is still good? Filter?? ( once had a similar but totally unrelated problem with my RS2000. New engine in and connected the fuel inlet/return to the carb the wrong way round. The graduated hole in the return allowed just enough fuel to idle, but stalled otherwise. Both connectors are marked with an arrow pointing the same way ).

1. Carbon on the valves ( yeah I know, but it's a quote from a book written by James Bonds brther ) Take it out and rev the bollocks off it for half n hour or so. Should burn it off. 2. Piston on the rear passenger side wheel is siezed?

Sounds like you've got a bad earth somewhere. As it warms up, the resistance increases. Check the earth strap to the engine/battery terminals, etc: if there is corrosion/resistance, it'll be quite warm at one end.

Won't it align itself when you press the pedal? As long as the bearing ( what do you call it! ) in the flywheel is still there, then the pms is held true, and the friction plate will centre itself when the pedal's depressed. Any other problems are usually crud on the shaft...

way advanced???

bubble arch blue on white. stuff a fiat/lancia 2 litre in it for real oldschool goodness. Or a v8 rover...

Yeah I've got one lying around and i'll not be needing it for a while. Off a sierra. Let me know... we used to put xj6 ones on the rally cars iirc.

Hey Dan try disconnecting the stereo and see if that fixes it.

I've been caught out by the live to the radio to keep it's memory - connecting the wrong one to permanently on, and a boot light permanently on. And, of course everything on an italian car! try taking half the fuses out and seeing it that helps and so on... At least you'll work out which circuit's draining.

The boss works in a garage on Moorhouse, and they swear by rustorations. No personal experience though... but she won't let me go round as it's usually got escorts in there

As I passed my test in a daytona yellow 1973 Mk.3 cortina 1600GT, I'm sure it's a pinto

There were Motorcraft dizzys fitted to pintos originally, as well as Bosch, and probably others. 5mm play will only continue to trash caps. I'd look for a spare - it'll probably be cheaper than a rebuild. I've only got one, so can't really help. The Sierra ones fit, too, and they come with electronic ignition. Which is a bonus but don't forget the computer.

if your starter's stuffed, can you tow it instead? No voltage drop then!! Also will give time to get good clean fuel through as well...

I can LEND you a type 9 for a bit if you want. Bout time you got that thing legal anyway.

No not really, you want an AX block for that - it was designed for really crap african petrol and is much heavier. It's the block the original rally escorts bored 1840ccs out of. 71 is the year the block was designed I think - the previous being the 68(1F), and then next mod was to put it into a fwd fiasco, which is a 77(1M) block ( and the engine mounts are wrong amongst other things ). So what you're after is a 711M6015BA block for 1600, AA for 11/1300. Not the easy to read wrong 771M6051BA!

If it's rough on idle, but ok at higher revs are you sure the valves aren't slightly bent?

If it's a vacuum leak, then the revs will *increase* when the throttle is closed - as the mixture will richen with the venturis shut and the air is only sucked in through the leak.

http://turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=133121 - perfect timing!