cubastreet

Had a nasty accident in one of these once in dunedin. good times!

Well I started stripping it: The motor looks nice and big now it's not hidden by all those unnecessary items like the pipes and fuel tank. I can't believe people actually put screws back in when they get this bad. These were on the timing cover: Fortunately the impact driver shifted them. I tried tinfoil and vinegar on the chrome, but it was too much hassle so I knocked together a bath for electrolysis. Basically you buy, steal or make something to hold enough water to soak the parts you want to de-rust. I made a box out of scrap wood big enough to put the pipes in, then lined it with a cheap tarp. Fill it with water then add something to make it conduct electricity. Normally people seem to use washing soda, but I didn't have any around so I used dishwasher powder. Put the item you want to de-rust in, and hook it up to the negative lead of a battery charger. Hook the positive lead to a piece of scrap steel and throw that in the wash too, making sure it doesn't touch the other hunk of metal. Turn on the power, and it de-rusts all by itself. I should have taken more photos for before-after, but this headlamp bowl thingy was pretty much covered in rust: If only it would bring the chrome back .... I like that they put this on the exhaust: Of course I won't!

replace the ignition coil with a12v bulb. turn on the ignition and turn the crank with a spanner the direction the engine runs. when the bulb turns off is when the spark happens so check the timing marks then. edit: duh! electronic ignition now so this may not work

Some head gaskets need to be retorqued, don't know if it's just old ones but when I rebuilt a crossflow engine the gasket kit said to retorque after 500 miles or so. Never had to because someone stole the van before I'd even refitted the carb. Could also be PCV valve stuck causing oil to be squirted into your intake. Check and see if your air filter is full of oil / check the PCV is ok.

I don't have money to be spending on this at the moment so it'll be a slow build. I'm not sure what the bars are off, everything else looks pretty standard. They don't look too bad flipped upside down, so it sets the scene for a bit of a cafe style: I should have a brand new set of chambers in black, but the owner gave me a box with guzzi pipes by mistake so I'll swap them with him sometime. I'll give the guards a bit of a chop and find some small indicators for it, grab some rearsets off a katana or something and ride the shit out of it. I'll stick with the useless drums cos they look so dope. Who wants to slow down anyway? I'm considering lightening it a little with the angle grinder because it's 187kg standard, but not sure I have the heart to do it.

sweet ride. my first bike was a z250 but I kept on having near death experiences on it so I abandoned it when I moved up from Dunedin.

I've seen an sc12 setup where the clutch came on when the secondary opened on the dgv weber. It was a nice little setup.

Just picked this up. It needs plenty of work but I've got most of another bike for spares. It's a 69 T500 Plan at the moment is to strip it down, rebuild the motor, repaint and see how much I can clean up the chrome. It needs a new seat, not sure on shape but it has to carry 2. Give me some suggestions. Like the colour scheme of this bike: so might go for the red/white theme too. I quite like the red frame. I'll just tickle the motor a bit, nothing wild.

needs original white plastic grips and white vinyl seat.

None of the controls do anything. It just says 105 on the screen no matter how much I turn all the knobs/flick the switches. When I pull the trigger, the screen says 202 and the hf works, but no arc. The day after it went bung I came in in the morning and it worked again, so I went and chopped rust out of the bottom of a door, bent up a bit of steel and when I went to weld it ... nothing again.

Don't think it's easy, tig needs a constant current power supply. My warranty seems to be completely useless. So far all they've sent me is the operation manual for a welder I don't have And after more requests for help, they sent me a block diagram for the wiring of the welder I don't have. I'm getting my brother to write to them in Chinese. Failing that I'm going to have to try to fix it blind, but the thing's fucking complicated.

Keen to hear how this goes. I'm looking at picking up a 1969 bike last registered in 88, plate doesn't work on carjam.

This is awesome. I just gave my souped up tamiya thunder dragon to my nephew a while back cos I hadn't used it for over 20 years. Please somebody do a tank http://jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID= ... mpaign=FPC

Mine fucked out yesterday. Now I get to see how good my warranty is.

your litres per hundred kilometres may vary but I did a lot of reading about chinese tigs about a year ago. It seems that a lot of chinese manufacturers make copies of the same circuits but some have much better quality control. Keep an eye on the duty cycle when you buy, some are only rated at around 30% In the end I opted for this IGBT one, hoping it would last: http://www.river-weld.com/igbt-acdc-200 ... p6882.html I can't say I've used it an awful lot, but I've been very happy with it. When I got it I was on the weltec course using their giant miller machines and I found mine easier to maintain a good arc at low amps. I put this down to having a much smaller tungsten installed in mine, but was quite impressed. Only problem is warranty. They offer a 2 year parts warranty, but you have to be able to follow their technician's directions to identify which board is faulty if anything goes wrong. No problems yet, touch wood. All up it cost me $1200 landed (they marked it as sample welding machine, value $150, so the customs lady didn't jump it). I ordered it on a Thursday night and it arrived the monday morning, which was pretty sweet. At one point I was about to buy the boc branded one, but glad I didn't now. I got a better machine and even if I were to buy another two I'd still have change.

Looks like the scootrs 10" wheels on 8" hubs, Matt swears by them. How's the braking? They all dive under braking, it's the suspension design. Going around bumpy corners on a vespa is interesting when you get a bit of that sideways shuffle going on. 100km/h never felt as fast as it does on a vespa! OT: James, u still want these radios? else I'm gonna chuck them or bang them on TM

So, so sweeeet.

I think you have to participate in a certain amount of club events each year too. That's the way it is with the Wellington club anyway

Word used to be that if you use the original rails you don't need a cert. I tried this with my brumby ute and didn't have any problems.

The autochoke is a coiled bimetallic spring inside a waterfilled housing iirc, they get corroded up pretty bad if proper coolant isn't used due to the dissimilar metals. Pull it apart and clean up the corrosion and it might fix it.

SAS in Petone are good.

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/cree-xlamp ... 45?item=34

That is awesome. Sit the gas bottle in a tub of water, fill with beers, then you have a combination workshop heater, beer chiller and sweet noise machine.

should be fine.

Nah get a new plug, they're like $6 from repco. You can google spark plug codes to see what they mean. Here's NGK http://www.sparkplugs.co.uk/pages/techn ... g-code.htm If the thread diameter is 14mm and your current thread length is 3/4" (just guessing, this is common, measure before you try) I would guess something like a NGK B6HS might suit. 6 is a good heat range to start with. If the plug fouls alot get a hotter plug (B5HS) if it burns away get a cooler plug (B7HS) Paint looks good as is.