84_S12

48mm is as close as you'd get to in between the metric sizes you've given I think. 1 and 7/8" is 47.6mm and 1 and 15/16" is 49.2mm Unless you can get them down to 1/64" tolerances in which case you'll want 1 and 57/64" or 58/64" Fuck not being able to sleep and being bored enough to do stupid imperial conversions

4AGE ftw Seeing as my post about nitrous was deleted....

Tis "Shellac" like Steve Albini's band So yeah, either way = mashed beatles

Nuff said...

Yeah Slide Hammer ftw I just hired one from Butlers Auto Mart (Tool hire) dunno if it's really worth the expense buying one unless you have need for it as an ongoing thing. That said if you keep blowing diffs...

Nah wish I could help bro. Any parts I have are old broken bits that I've replaced...

What's the grey/primer/whatevah beast behind VW in the pic?

S12 ftmfw!!!!!!!!!!!111eleven!!! I will be interested in watching your progress. Pwned a stock Legacy GT on the way to Ashvegas yesterday in a 4th gear roll - he looked a little bit shocked ay so it'll be interesting to see how ya go with the DET....

Aren't the Pulsar ETs and EXAs powered by E15ETs? Some are making upward of 300 horse.... anything with a DE/DET/DETT at the end is ok Ain't nuthin wrong with a single cam turbs...

Aren't the Pulsar ETs and EXAs powered by E15ETs? Some are making upward of 300 horse....

Disconnect the spark plugs then turn it over on the starter to let the oil pump get some oil around. Watch the oil pressure gauge rise, then put spark plugs back on and start it.

Kawasaki run their engines in with only assembly lube, then strip and rebuild after it seizes. True story. I've heard to basically use shit mineral oil (Some companies have run in grade?) and give it a really good fang

Workmate will be rockin his FC3 again this year hopefully running in time. Don't think he'll be dragging it yet though...

+1 He rebuilt mine for $300 guarantees his work too

9.3mm is 3/8" So I'm guessing you're after 7/16" or 1/2" ?

Super Cheap = Shit Go and see someone who actually does fluid couplings like Hydraulink/Enzed/Eaton

I reckon the paint presented in the first example is a goer

I'm sure there have been plenty worse rangi repairs And bog is pretty bloody hard stuff - not much different to using loctite I guess

Back in the old days they used to knurl it or pin punch it as was done for/by you. Also, one of the WOF inspectors at my old work said that he has used bog in the housing and pressed the bearing in with no further issues.... And he worked for VTNZ for many years!

If you're going to pay extra for high octane petrol, buy it from a high turnover site because the aromatic compounds have a very short "shelf life". Also, don't fill up when the tanker is there filling the tanks because they stir up all the scale and sediment from the bottom of the tank which will in turn clog your fuel filter. Slightly off topic, but relevant...

I have one. It's fucking brilliant!

My exhaust mani and turbo are usually about 400 degrees A good thermostat should be FULLY OPEN at it's rated temperature. Also if you think it's running hot, use a lower temp thermostat preferably genuine parts because generic types aren't necessarily failsafe (Stick open) and often a high temperature offset (Range of temp from open to closed)

OK then... I thought the problem was that injector seals shrunk and let excess fuel into the cylinder causing over rich condition = lots of smoke and loss of power I'd look at Redline Diesel Treatment (Try BNT?) as an option...

So do we say fosforus too? kloreen? pootonium? It's latin for fuck's sakes... can't people just leave shit alone? I also noticed the international way of spelling international has changed to internation... Is that being pedantic?

2 Speed Powerglide ftw