Raizer
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Posts
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Everything posted by Raizer
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Random slightly cool stuff you built but not worth its own thread, thread
Raizer replied to h4nd's topic in Other Projects
Made a couple catch cans Even made the hose fittings First one for @GuyWithAviators Next one And cause I couldn't find a tap in the size I wanted on a Sunday arvo I made a drain thing, just needs an O-ring Thinking of making some more to sell, the 2 pictured are both 100x100x200mm, I made plate baffles etc and can make them shorter or taller (up to 2.5m ha!), and can either turn and weld on barbs in whatever size needed or supply ready to bolt off the shelf fittings to
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They must have improved again with the latest owners, was absolutely shit and super stingy an owner or 2 back.
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These things can wheelie real well! Had one with a Tecumseh on at a wreckers I worked at, was amazing what it would tow around the yard and the abuse it withstood haha
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Think I'm getting it figured out again /\ 80Hz, 70/30ish (edit 80/20, -30 on the setting, 0 is 50/50 so -30 would be 80/20) , 120a, pulse 2Hz down to 80a. Filler rod from Bunnings kept giving bright green flashes and leaving the soot marks?? Same amperages and balance, 120Hz.
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Downloaded an Everlast instruction manual, so much more detail than BOC give. 0 is 50/50 balance, so either -30 or 30 is 70% (I'm still reading it lol) I've been aiming for balled tungsten the whole time lol Edit: Between the Everlast instructions and the video @Transom posted I think I've got it figured it, -30 is 70% negative. it was about 30 where the tungsten was balling and splattering away so yeah that would have been 30% negative.
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Trying to get my head around the AC balance on the new BOC tig, seems they've used what I'm seeing referred to online as the Everlast style control. Rather than basic % adjustment like the Raptor had and looks like Miller and Lincoln etc use this goes from -50 to 50 and I'm struggling to figure it out tbh. Although I did learn that if I turn it up to about 30 it'll splatter balls of tungsten everywhere The manual is pretty useless, this is all it says about it Oh lol and if anybody knows how to use the save/recall function for different settings I'd love to know how, all the manual says about it is that's what the light is for...
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@NickJ I've got a BOC one they chucked in when I got the Raptor tig, I can't say if it's any better than one from Ali as I've only ever used this one, but it seems decent quality and has def saved me a bit of gas already. https://www.boc.co.nz/shop/en/nz/industrial-gas-equipment/flowmeters/boc-flowmeters @sentra said you have to break at least one and all reg gauges at least yearly to be a good welder too.
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I've got my reg set to 15lpm then the flow metre drops it down to whatever it's set to. Any higher on the reg and it does what @yoeddynz said with the blast of gas, any lower and the reg makes horrible noises ha
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You're running the Bunnings/Coregas too yeah? Dunno if there's anyone down there doing it, but one of the industrial places here supply Coregas and have E size cylinders, thinking about going that way when I run out. Oh and if you don't already have one, have found a proper flow meter seems to save a lot of gas compared to just using the LPM gauge on the reg.
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Speaking of pedals I went in and ordered one from BOC today Ha
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After trying a wide range of downslope settings I just couldn't get anywhere with it, so I took it back. The manager at BOC gave it a good 45 minute test trying out a lot of things, in the end it turned out just to be a case of cheap welder things, issue was only in pulse and it turns out it'd start dropping the amps like it's meant to, but then it'd still pulse at full current! Ended up with either keeping it and not using pulse at the same time as downslope or... ...pay the difference and get what I should have in the first place! Will likely get a pedal at some point in the near future.
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Finally found some time to have another play with the Raptor tig, starting to get somewhat okay results now I've changed it from the factory 50% start current setting and turned the post gas up from .5 to 5.5 seconds lol Issue I've been having is that in 2t (haven't tried 4t yet) I having been able to finish a bead nicely It was set to downslope to 50% current over 2 seconds when the button is let go. I realized that whenever I let go of the button it seemed to increase amps by a huge amount and then taper down but it was blowing out before it started dropping. Set it to 0 downslope and yeah it seems to stop nicely now but is leaving a little hole in the end of the bead.
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https://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-gb/support/welding-how-to/Pages/preventing-arc-blow-detail.aspx
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Pretty sure it's known as Arc blow or something like that, keep your magnets at least 150mm away from where you're tacking. Have had it happen a few times with tig.
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I'm far from an expert, but I'd be thinking too much heat, possibly too slow torch speed?
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Need to figure out the downslope amp settings, seem to be getting half decent results (compared to the mess I was expecting to make at least), but really struggling to finish welds without blowing out at the end edge Also, likely related tbh, but it's a struggle to remember that I just have to let go of the switch to finish, been using lift start for years where you "snap" the arc to finish
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I got a Vertex indicator and matching mag base, it's no Mitutoyo, but it's more than good enough for setting up a diff and my fucking about on my lathe. https://www.machineryhouse.co.nz/M055?gclid=Cj0KCQiAoY-PBhCNARIsABcz7717tStVZReqkPq871_9og9kD1rNDNWSKIsxqoAj-Gkjpm-9xORMLZwaAqSqEALw_wcB
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Kei truck body on a short wheelbase LandCruiser or similar chassis.
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AC seems to work, that's my first attempts at alloy lol so hopefully can only get better from here
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Mostly posting as it'll likely be the only time it'll be this clean/organized haha Grabbed another trolley from Bunnings as well as a meter of 32mm pvc tube, cut it in half and got carried away cleaning up the ends ha SS filler on the side, alloy at the rear.
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First time working on a car "maintained" in NZ??
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It's got mandrel bends over the diff at least (think I supplied them all tbh), rest looks like it's been made from mandrel offcuts. One day I might redo the rear section, but for now it's good enough, managed 9.8l-100k open road last week so it's doing the trick anyway.
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Ran into BOC today to get a lug terminal for an earth lead, they didn't have any in stock but they did have this...
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Far as I'm aware they use less power than an incandescent
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Have been running Narva h4 LEDs in my HiAce for almost 6 months, will never go back to incandescent bulbs again! They make the +50 bulbs I had seem like candles
