Raizer

Cleaned all the plugs, it made 0 difference at all. Was expecting to find pretty much no compression in number 2 when I pulled that plug.

Lush! I run a Daytona Red in my Suzuki, decent units for sure!

Missed BNT but managed to borrow a comp tester. 2 is a little low, but have seen worse. Plugs on the other hand So yeah 2 is eating a little bit of oil.

While engine braking it's grey/black, after it was full on oil blue.

Am going to bite the bullet and go get a comp tester from BNT soon. Burnt valve was one of my first thoughts too, just didn't want to admit it to myself.

The valve is still in the cam cover, nothing's come out of it but I'd assume it won't open without vacuum. The other breather at the back of the cam cover is still plumbed into the intake before the carb, doesn't look too oily inside. SCA is out of compression testers, repco is a joke price wise, going to see if I can borrow one from somewhere. /Wouldn't have expected instant burnt valve etc though and it still feels ignition related to me.

Valve stem seals are about 6 months old/probably fucked already as it smokes during long amounts of engine braking downhill. PCV is long gone, I removed it and blocked the manifold port to try combat the smoking during engine braking, since I'd fitted be stem seals I thought it may have been part of the cause. Am going to go buy a compression tester now, if compression tests OK I'll try new dizzy cap, rotor, leads and plugs. Failing that it'll finally be time to burn it. Looking at a 96 Super Custom, has had a brand new upper radiator and water pump fitted less than 6 months ago, the seller is claiming it's the lower rad using the water but admits it's possible the head is the problem. Was looking at these kits http://www.trademe.co.nz/browse/listing.aspx?id=1239724496&/listing?rfm=1 Have done a couple diesel heads before, but that was many years back and these things look to have a lot more going on than an early Pajero 4D56 or Hilux L engine.

Looking at a local Super Custom, 1kz, full time 4wd, sub 200k, new radiator but it "uses a little water on long trips". So yeah likely needs the head done sooner than later, would explain it being cheap too. Looks like a brand new compete head with gaskets and bolts etc can be had for around $1300 off trademe and even after taking that into account it's still a lot cheaper than any Super Custom on TM ATM, but my question is is it a cunt enough of a job to make it not worth while considering it'll no doubt be a Chinese head? /Would rather try to keep my Mitsi going a while longer than tick up a van I can't really afford. Dunno WTF is up with it now, started fine, went down a steep 100m+ driveway holding second gear, got on the road and gave it some gas, got a loud pop, instant thick oil smoke for a few hundred metres and it's been running rough as fuck sounding like a dying Subaru since. I've been right over the ignition side of things and can't find anything visually out of order really, massive spark from the coil, timing still bang on 5°, was a bit of shit built up on the terminals in the dizzy cap. Checked the cambelt to make sure it hadn't jumped a tooth on the timing. It still feels like an ignition issue really, but with how it seemed to come on instantly throws me a bit.

Yeap disconnected and blocked off. Besides the fucking terrible economy It is otherwise running well, besides being a bit hard to start/often needs a fair bit of cranking to start when warm. At one point before I changed the dizzy and kitted the carb etc it was running so rich it turned one side of my trailer black and it still gave better mileage.

Rekitted my vans carb, fitted a decent distributor timed to factory spec (5° at idle), new coil, new electric fuel pump. Am now lucky to get anything more than 250-300k from a tank of gas. Always got closer to 350k when it was running a fucked pump, leaky carb and timing locked somewhere around 40°. WTF could be going on? Too higher fuel pressure?

Yeap Soooooo I caved and tidied up my pedal box - passivated bits, paint and new rubbers…. The door window mechanisms got some lovin also The door felt metal trim got a spruce up also - good old black paint anti rust I painted the rusty door frame, as I am a firm believer of black door frames on RX2 coupes - as much as I liked the patina Glass in and all rubbers excl the door card Suspension is done any day now. S5 13bt box has had another mod with MX5 remote shifter, so it should fit in the tunnel hole now. Mazda 24 spline LSD rebuilt with 4:4 gear and new bearings etc New rad and cooler coming up this week http://www.iforce.co.nz/

Also sorry to spam, but I got a couple more elite scooters, mighty car mods, an ebay turbo review and this

Looks like tinypic has the same issue as PB

It very much is a pop up headlight!

Nicks managed to paint the inside and underneath of the car. A huge amount of work has gone into seam welding/strengthening and tidying up the shell before this stage. Most of the panel work on the car has been completed also, doors and guards will be going to panelbeater in the next week or two to get tidied up and sprayed professionally to make sure its the best quality finish we can afford. Like a brand new car Twin batteries in the rear seat this time. Previously had single battery in boot but was a bit of a pain in the arse and would like to run 2 batteries if we end up with charging issues etc. Strut tops have been strengthed so we can do some mad jumps So I've been between jobs for a few days so spent a bit of time in palmy helping Nick out assembling and cleaning stuff. Everything is being cleaned, repainted and repaired before being installed. Time consuming but will be worth it in the end. Got the car rolling. Subframes/suspension and diff have all been sanded back and repainted with CV black which should wear pretty well with the stones. They look amazing (picture doesn't do them justice) Mounted fuel pump (Nick was cringing while I drilled holes in the brand new paint). Spent heaps of time cleaning fuel and brake lines then covering with protective rubber/plastic tube to protect them from the stones. Foot plates re-installed. Also cleaned and repainted the heater box and installed the wiper assembly and steering column/pedal box. With this cage we were able to move the seats back a good couple of inches. The seating position was very tight before and we are both 6 foot so being able to move the seats back and lower will make a huge difference. Really looking forward to driving it like this! Thumbs-up seal of approval... FUCK PHOTOBUCKET. http://www.iforce.co.nz/

Should have flicked me a message would have loved to check this thing out in the steel! Think I've still got a stock Escort rear sway bar somewhere if you wanted to adapt it.

The lawnmower thing caught my attention too haha

Yeah there external pump, the challenge can be making enough room to pull the cam out the front of the vehicle.

Spent 4 seconds copying the link you posted and uploading to imgur

Try Imgur. It is an OS problem as I just tried your photo links on an old phpBB forum, a SMF forum and an AMASS forum and they worked perfectly on all. But at the end of the day Photobucket sucks crusty ass. Just playing around with your image links I've been informed that I've won billions of dollars, there's sexy singles waiting for me and it turns out the Lindbergh baby is my grandfather Imgur is easier to use than PB and works well, iforce is super simple and just straight out works.

First step is check your belt travel, use a vivid and mark a line across the face of the variatior and go for a ride, if the markers all gone the belt is getting full travel and you can likely go a little lighter. If your left with any marker near the edge the belt isn't going right out, slightly heavier rollers or a new belt should sort it. Once you get into big pipes with narrow powerbands weight becomes even more critical to get right.

You can't just chuck 3.5s in place of heavy stock rollers and expect improvments, you probably moved your shift point 5000rpm above your powerband FFS. Going heavier isn't going to gain you fuck all speed, but it will lower your acceleration. Have you actually checked to see if your belt is getting full travel to the outer edge of the variatior face? It's all about fine tuning slight differences in roller weight until you get your variatior shifting right at the peak of the powerband with the belt travelling right out, not making massive changes expecting miracles.

Yeah should be an improvement, will raise the shift point a fair few RPMs. The way to do it is buy an assortment of cheap rollers in various weights (eBay ftw) and try different combos until you get it how you want it, then once you find what works swap the cheap ones out for a decent set. You can mix 2 different weights too, I'm running 3X 3.5 and 3X 3.75 weights which has put my shift point at 10,750rpm/need to go slightly heavier as my peak power is at about 10,250rpm.