Raizer

I thought normally commercial tyre work out to be 82 profile?

Suzuki m120x, bit smaller than a Victa at 120cc, but sound so much nicer and imo go harder.

First step, keep an eye out for your friendly neighbourhood hammock Street vendor

PBR HARRRD!! /Disregard if your not ex Gizzy and I've got the wrong EX GSR in mind haha,

Yeah I'm assuming Toyota stuck one under Super Customs like they did with trade spec HiAces, just haven't actually had a look yet

Mint, have only had one other car with ABS and I don't think the Altezza has any sort of proportioning valve lol. Normal it may be, but shit it can give you a fright!

Another ABS question/oddity. I've had my van's brake pedal try and kick back a few times, weird hard pulse in the pedal and the brakes seem to pulse with it, the harder you try and push the pedal to stop the harder it kicks and the brakes lose power. Only seems to happen when either I've got a shitload of grass in the trailer of I've got no weight but I'm going downhill and have to brake hard/downhill in the wet. Thinking it's possibly related to the proportioning valve I assume it has in the rear.

Should be fine to ditch it completely, other option though is to gut it and put it back in place.

Is it wrong I want that engine for a weedeater of doom? /Nuts looking little scooter!

What takes 103mm pcd?

AFAIK it's always been the case that the flywheel needs to be ground for warranty and more so as it's just normal practice to have the flywheel ground when fitting a new clutch. BNT here grind them for free when you buy a clutch kit from them.

Just a guess, but I'm going to say it's burnt into your tints. Have the same issue with my van.

Is it a WOF fail to replace the hinge pins in door hinges with high tensile bolts? Might have just been a Barry yarn, but I've been told it's a no go.

Canadian guy on another forum I frequent is playing with an old Spree, he's also fitted an AF18 but with a couple mild custom touches to the engine that may inspire you...

I had to get it back on the road, so I took my stock Let's engine, honed the bore and added new rings and all top end gaskets Cleaned out the oil pump and filters etc. Got it all back together tonight Drained the mix of ancient shit oil, Total Hi=Perf and slime from the tank and flushed it out Whacked the engine back in, filled the tank with Total, bled and primed the oil pump After minimal cranking it fired right up, quickly filled the shed with lovely blue smoke from the liberally oiled crank bearings and rings. Going to chuck a light-bar like I've got on my Let's on this blue one, stock lights are abysmal!! Had to take it for a test run, went easy on it for maybe 20 minutes to let the rings bed in, then opened it up Think slightly lighter rollers, a size bigger MJ and even a stock style pipe with a bit more flow would get the RPM up. This engine/variator combo used to push close to 75k using the mangled stock Let's II pipe, and just over 80 with my spannie and CDI, but thinking about it the first thing I did to the Let's was go up to 3.50 tyres which would give a couple k on there own, this is still down on 3.00. But as it's already worlds ahead of the SJ50QT in terms of acceleration, top speed and handling etc I'm happy enough with it... For now...

So this afternoon could have gone better... I finally got around to chucking some rego on both the Let's and the AZ My middy and I decided to take them out for a bit of a run around town, first 15 minutes went well, stopped and got some gas and the blue one cut out as Sandy slowed down to go to the pump. Took a fair bit to get it started again but it fired up and we set off and made it a couple blocks down the road... It appeared to be seized solid! I'm 85kg and could stand on the kickstarter without it moving at all. At least with all the mucking around with the Let's in the past it only took 10 minutes for Aaron and I to get it to this point Whipped the head off, not looking good! But I did notice the piston seemed free... Cylinder slide off freely and there is no gouges or even signs of heat seize... Yum... Check out the colour of the big end! Bit of WD40 and it freed right up, but fuck running that again! Gudgeon has seen some heat too. So went over WTF has caused it. Oil in tank? Yeap, 1/2 full of decent total oil. Oil at carb? Yeah the slide was oily feeling, bit of visible red oil. Oil pump drive gear shredded like they like to do? Nope, is in near perfect condition! *Wait visible red oil?? Total is blue!* So yeah figured the pump must be dead, started pulling lines off to further investigate it and found this completely blocking the prepump filter FUCK. So now do I just slap together my original Let's engine that has a broken case meaning it's electric start only? OR do I do what my son has suggested and try to scrape up some coin and order a Top Racing crank, Athena HPR Racing cylinder kit and 19mm or 21mm carb etc to build a new engine for the Let's and upgrade Sandy to my Malossi sport kitted 70cc engine...

Got bored, pulled out the wheely machine from it's dusty tomb, new battery and a lot of hand choke and it burst back to life. Really need to order it's new clutch, 3 or 4 wheelys and it loses bite until it cools down again.

Davies Craig instructions say to install them in series with the stock in rad cooler. /I found there is already a huge cooler installed by the previous owner so took the Davies Craig one back to SCA ha. Money I saved on the cooler is going towards 18l of Havoline ATF-J and a trans filter kit.

Parts stash raided First thing to go on was the Kitaco variator Can see how much bigger it is. Also chucked on a good condition kevlar banded belt and my stock Let's II clutch with 1500rpm springs. The stock heat shield was melting off. Also installed new front wheel bearings, speedo cable, spark plug, rear brake cable and air filter element. Not there yet, but it's a lot closer than it was! This has a 75mj in it, pretty sure my Let's came with a 77 or 80, so will swap that it and keep playing. Edit: I gave @MopedNZ all my small jets, so it's tuned well enough for right now haha.

Has been off the road since 2012, changed the ownership earlier and whacked 1 month rego on it just so it was legal while I muck around, it must have had reg left when it was put on hold as 1 month gave an expiry date in September! Cleaned a lot of shit out of the carb, drained a few litres of super stinky stale premix from the tank as well as the ancient oil from the oil tank. Fresh fluids and it fired right up. Soooo much smoke for the first 5 minutes!! Goes ok, pulls hard to about 30k but it's not exactly fast though Obviously that isn't going to cut it, even if I'm planning on giving it to the misses! Was pretty confident it was a CVT issue causing the lack of speed since the engine sounds pretty well right. Not a good sign when the CVT crank nut looks like this! Rollers are fucked, super heavy (thinking 4t), wrong size and there's 3 missing... Lol fuck, look at all the angles!! Plan of attack for tomorrow is to whack in the spare over range variatior from my Let's, burn the carbon out of the pipe, maybe up the main jet a size and get the speedo working. I'd like to see 70k out of it, I know there good for it with just mild CVT mods. Was thinking of fitting one of my expansion pipes, but with the misses starting at stupid early hours I'm thinking loud isn't the way to go ha.

Trans cooler question, I'm going to grab one today and hopefully find time to install it as well as flush my trans this weekend. Question is what's the go wit hte stock one in the radiator, seems to be a lot of arguing over whether it's best to leave it plumbed in or not when fitting an after market cooler. Seems to be a few schools of thought about it too, some say to go: trans > after-market cooler > stock cooler > trans using the stock in rad cooler as basically a fluid heater/thermostat so the after-market one doesn't "over cool" the ATF/the stock cooler is supposedly super efficient and an external won't cool enough. Others say to go: trans > stock cooler > after-market cooler > trans using the stock cooler to scrub a bit of heat. Then there's what I was originally planning on doing: cut and plug the stock lines and just run the new cooler out front, but using the stock cooler to basically act as a thermostat makes sense to me too ha.

Good to know, I always ran Fuchs power plus in my Subaru back in the day, but that was a lot different to a diesel. Savings wise it isn't a huge difference ($70 for 10l GTX and about $115 for the 20l Fuchs, a 10l is about $100 hence the 20l lol) Edit: The more I read, the more I'm leaning towards Delo 400.

Diesel oil question, I used to just run Valvoline diesel extra in the Gloria, but I want to run something a bit better in the 1KZ, CaM reckoned to grab some GTX Diesel and he's never steered me wrong BUT I can get a 20l of Fuchs Titan truck plus for a damn good price. Any of you guys ran it/have an opinion on oil for a TD?