cute wee gem

Love your work dude, good stuff!

Does it have stub axles that pop into the diff head, then the axles bolt to them? If yes, it should make your job a lot easier. Unbolt axles, unbolt diff head, drop down, then unbolt front driveshaft. If not I guess you have to do it as you said.

Hah!

Rags.. (just over 2 years ago!) Riches.. I'll miss you

Bad idea on a g200, the bores are ridiculously close together, would need to be o-ringed to seal the head properly. (had this problem with my last one) Would be better off with a 4z as they have bigger/even spacings between bores.

skimmed my g200z, was fine, but didn't take enough off to raise comp significantly

Fuuuuck yes!

Come on brad, you know this thing has to have ITBs from the get go. Lets be realistic here

My old Gemini motor did this, at the 2009? nats trackday, after a few laps it would be on constantly at idle (would normally just flicker) Never did bearings or knocked, and got beaten up lots every day

Balls, so my car that now has more camber than original spec, but is just lowered with no camber "mods" will now fail a cert? So do I have to now modify my subframe from original to keep the camber at stock angle? Should have booked it in 2 weeks ago

What's the cost for a cert these days? seem to hear anything between 300 and 600?

This looks tough as, good work

Not sure about that particular engine but, try this site as some Holden ECUs are Delco http://www.delcohacking.net/forums/

Sweet, picked up some 5/16 from bnt today Time for some dirt in the eyes

Will 1/4 inch/6mm fuel line be big enough to support 200ish hp @ the flywheel? This is for after the EFI pump (under pressure) but can run a bigger hose from surge tank to the pump. Engine is a 2l Piazza turbo + VF24

Wow, this is epic! What are your plans with the body? rat? authentic bullet holes are sweet Funny how an almost factory Honda Shuttle has 10 pages of comments, yet this has less than 10 posts?

That's the general rule, but after seeing some dyno tests (not mine, just on the net) it isn't quite as it sounds

I would imagine making the runner short and experimenting with trumpet length/size would pay off as they're easier to change than manifolds. You'd need to have it on a dyno to know what's best as I don't think you'd get big enough gains to measure from road testing There might be a better reason to have longer/shorter runners after the throttle, but I'm not that smart so I'll let someone else comment on that Edit: 6s/anything sounds good with itbs

Oh, and sweet car dude, space those fronts

You can cut the lowest part of the BC (silver bit?) strut before you slip it over your original strut for extra low

Agree with Dane. Scotchbrite pad is your best/easiest option, but if you can't be arsed buying some use 320-400g - would be better than 180g imo

This part actually has 2 flanges welded to it (vivid shape), which bolts to the lower half of the manifold Welds are getting better, this is one of the last/better ones Still a bit of work left to do.

touch it! now!

Thanks guys!

I have a pump here, part no 195130-0082 3H Can't seem to find what it's from, I think it was from a Commodore but has an "ND" (which I assume is Nippon Denso) symbol which seems a bit odd being from a Holden? I thought they used Bosch or something Thanks