mk5corty

4.4l of awesomeness 200hp and 380nm of torque. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 053912.htm one on trademe at the moment minus carb, not sure on teh conversion, apart from the gearbox would expect it to almost bolt straight in, being essentially the same engine.

The head off the sd1 flows better and has bigger ports, best is the vitesse or vanden plas fuel injected if you can find it. Or search for the 3.9 or 4.2 engines. The twin SU carbed sd1 engine makes about 170hp and the carbs are good for over 200 with rejetting. So get the good head, get it ported get a good exhaust and extractors, extractors may be the expensive bit.

lift mayhaps?

a bench grinder and a polishing bonnet is the shit for doing peices like that just watch the fingers. Slap some autosol on and shine it up like chrome.

pretty much all paintjobs except backyard ones are done in 2k.

Guy at my gym chucked a 50kg dumbell onto the lat pull machine and stacked it, the wire snapped on about the 6th rep, now we have signs saying "Dont add any weight to this machine"

Ok i understand that bit now, i do the same, pull the air on about 30cm before the panel so my arm is at the correct speed when i pull the trigger a few cm before the panel.

Not meaning to say your wrong or anything, just dicussing a few points i dont entirely agree with or feel i have a way that would better suit some, feel free to argue/bash/contradict me. 1. I would argue the best way to counteract the milky appearance if you manage to trap humidity in you paint film would be to sand with 600 once dry and leave in the sun for a day or two and recoat. The use of thinners can increase the milky appearance by killing gloss, as i found out when trying to use the raw thinners trick to flatten orangepeel in a section of my clear. 2. As for paints which require thinners i havent encountered any that flowed better at less than 1/1 (except primers) and usually in between 1:1 and 1:1.5 was optimal, the paint tin will give the best instructions. 3. Im not sure if im understanding you correctly but i either have a panel or a sheet of paper and i adjust my paint flow and fan on this before spraying any panels thus ensuring gun settings are correct. 4. When spraying 2k i spray the first coat as wet as the last and spray them all at full wetness, i do sometimes get a run yes but if im not laying the coats heavy then without reducing them with slow reducers they dont flow out correctly for me, this way i avoid compounding. I havent had a problem with metallics, aslong as i dust coat the last coat or two to even the metallic appearance up, also i adjust my technique by spraying further away from the panel and moving slower-i find this keeps the metallic particles higher to the top of the paint film. 5. I always sand if i am going to buff, if the paint is that smooth that i dont bother sanding then i dont buff, thats a personal choice however, i dont see an improvement in gloss. 6 and 7. The reason you can ruin the paintjob withing 7 days is the sealing of the paint with the wax, dont use the wax, you can compound in a few days, even the day after although i have heard of paints need to be re compounded due to shrinking back into scratches after it was buffed, the cause of this however was the use of 320 and not 600 grit between primer and colour stages. Heres how personally buff Sand with 2000 (start at 1200 if there is orange peel) then medium cut on a wool pad, followed by fine cut on a foam pad then swirl mark remover or other very fine abrasive on a finishing foam pad. Then hand glaze instead of wax- it doesnt seal the paint. You can get away without the finishing pad and swirl mark remover on all expect dark finishes. once again feel free to pick apart my suggestions.

Moisture or solvent bubbles. Caused by many things, improper following of flash times, to wet a coat ( paint will run before this stage unless you are painting horizontally.) Extreme humidity, not wax and grease removing before sanding, not using a water trap in your lines etc. You will find as i did this is a reacurring problem in affected areas, i had to remove to OEM primer or baremetal before i cured it.

bwahah ill just jam the paint gun full of water into the carb.

come cunt, im going for my degree, am into victoria house halls of residence. am arriving in wellington 10:00 am sunday the 18th will be pimping/rawking times. mean boe.

thats an american turbo pinto. http://www.cosworth.com/shop_item.php?productid=426 there is the cosworth 250hp version but bear in mind that price is for all new parts and would be designed to last for a standard engines life. you could do nearly as well for much cheaper, like most modified engines.

2.3 duratec ftw if powerful N/A is what your after, 250hp can be had out of a streetable motor.

Do you mean price for you or for someone to do it. heres approx rrp on the products. primer: 100 colour:250-300 clear: 150 thinners or hardner will set you back another 50 or so. then sandpaper, filler, cleaner, tape, etc 50+ my repray cost me $500 for 4l primer, 5l clear, 4l colour,1lt of black and other crap but i got stuff at trade.

your buffer is shit lol. 2800rpm does it nicely. You could prob hand buff a quarter panel mint in about two hours. Get a polishing sponge or cloth and rub the compound left to right not in circles until it starts go dry, doing it that way means any swirl makes will be straight and only viewable from certian angles , then use your buffer to take the dried compound off. That was what i found most efefctive before i actually bought a proper buffer.

hers it straight from a pro detailer http://www.autobody101.com/forums/viewt ... isted+wool for those too lazy "BEST PADS HEAVY COMOUNDING - If you really need to get aggressive, there's nothing like twisted wool" bah, spend like 6days a week on painting forums.

twisted wool mop will cut much faster than foam, heard it from teh pros. Anywhos i find little difference between the meguires pro and 3m perfect it ranges and the likes. mezerna is apparently the best shizzle, dont get it over here i dont think.

hah guts to be buffing with that pos. I can buff faster by hand, buffed a whole car by hand in 3days, sore forearms hard. Anyways hit it with the 1200 then with 2000, makes it easier to buff. Some medium cut meguires cleaner-pro range ( can get from supercheap but not repco) on a good foam or wool pad, wool cuts faster. For finishing, swirl mark remover with a fine foam pad will bring it up mint, then hand glaze it, dont really need the hand glaze if you did it right tho it hides minor swirl marks. and to teh other guy, if there is micro cracks in the paint like spiderwebs, take the paint off, take it to original primer, i found this out the hard way, also get some masking tape and stick it on the car real good then pull it off, if any paint comes off then its fucken and you need to remove it, i also found this out the hard way. some 60 grit on a sander is good for stripping, lower is better if your good but can rip the shit out of good filler.

Cant be arse explaining so heres a website. http://victorylibrary.com/tech/crod-c.htm

watching an MG is born, they were reassembling and the dudes like, "just do up the nuts fingertight , it makes it easier to take apart later" lol'ed if it was american it would need to have mean disclaimers n shit.

bumped so people dont start a new one, (as if lol)

5 days aye /\, fuck that was wrong, will be more like 12. One compressor stz cos i lost my connecting peice, was a mish. One coat downa nd the tiny fan doesnt help got a bit of striping but was fixed by the 3rd coat. Fucken bright, wont lose this shit in a carpark. Also my bit of carboard fell out and i managed to paint some of the radiotor fins, bah there mostly collapsing anyways, just another thing to add to the list.

Lacquer generally wont dry to a shine, unless its clearcoat. As a colour it is meant to be buffed to a shine, it is soluble when dry. Acrylic enamels when they use hardeners are insoluble when dry and WILL dry to a shine but the gloss is only on the top layer and sanding will remove it and it cannot be buffed back. Urethanes use a hardener and dry to a shine and can be buffed up. Unless is is the base coat of a base clear system where the base is weak and matte finish and the clearcoat with the hardener adds the gloss and strength. Anything that uses a catalyst will be more durable. There is also polyurethanes which are tougher versions of urethanes although sometimes the names are interchanged. Poly's are used on aeroplanes and the like, very hard to compound after it has properly dried as it is so tough.

1k = laqcuers and some acrylic enamels, no hardener used, it dries by solvent evaporation which means it is soluble by its solvent even after curing. 2k = urethanes mostly, uses an isocyanate hardner to make it insoluble after it has dried, therefore you cannot remove it with reducer or thinners. This is unless of course you guys are using 1k as single stage urethane and 2k as basecoat clearcoat system which i have heard before. It is generally not reccomended to mix different paint types, however i have heard of using hardener in 1k products to strengthen them. I use 1k because it contains no cyanide and is less dangerous, however as lacquer it is an inferior and outdated product and does not bond as strong or last as long as 2k. Theres allsorts of chemical crap with 2k urethanes as the molecules cross link to form bonds but i wont get into that.

modgies and a monster tach na but serious, sweet ride.