tortron

Truck Updates Things i have done Installed brackets to hole up hungry boards, these will also double as attachment points should i build some loops for a rear cover Installed rear tow hook Fiddled with oil pressure gauge, so hopefully no more behind dash leaks Stuff To do Check out the carb float Install fuel catch can - i have a nice plan for this General tune up Get a WOF Other stuff i would like to do, includes recovering the interior, i found some nice textured vinyl that looks original. Still debating if its worth it Make up a cover for the rear Get the fuel gauge working properly Get the ODO working again Tidy up the paint Considering selling as im planning on travelling. Can probably manage storage space for my morrie, but a second vehicle is pushing it. Il get a wof and get back to the joy of driving an old truck and see how it goes. Long way off yet

Story goes Fuel gauge was working fine, albeit a little off Gradually it developed a jump, which a tap on the dash would remedy This progressed until gauge would jump erratically all the time, until one day it was dead Testing showed that this was the gauge itself, rather than some nice easy fix like the ground wire coming loose Dismantled my gauge unit today and discovered the problem As you can see, the upper coil has corroded, and indeed has broken on the left of the picture. Having rewound my trafficators, im sure i could spend a day tediously winding 180 odd coils with a smaller than hair wire, then soldering it in place. However, as this upper coil is only used as a shunt resistor. I figure i can just solder in an appropriate unit. My question, is how do i work out what value resistor i need? here are some supporting diagrams, from an MGA gauge, same set up, however the values may differ http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et213.htm

good god, you arnt a pom are you?

wetsanding and buffing. lots of it

i dont follow

would be lush if you can check it out

google up - scotts old auto rubber. im sure they will have the ones you need, plus they are aussie

Looking for some work space workshop/lock up/shed/ even a secure carport Just somewhere where i can finish off my minor thats covered, has power. i can supply lights and will bring my own tools timeframe of about mid June to mid July. Could arrange to do longer reparations to be discussed Let me know if you know of anything suitable

Bullbars Spotlights actually learn to drive Do those I also chuckled at the v8 badges

lacquer that tweed and it will last forever

the retrofit kits are not legal, because the lens is not designed for the bulb used. Plastic headlights may also melt (however my gsx600 had a kit retrofitted and it never failed the wof beam test) I think if you get a full kit with lenses it is legal, as the beam pattern will be correct There will be a control box in the wiring (maybe two for cars) which will alter the voltage.

that was my sweeping generalizations of biofilms typically* (im aware some was altered in a lab) algae will not grow in the dark as they cant photosynthesize Cyannobacteria can (and of course all the others) edit* however algae may be an issue depending on how you store your fuel. im thinking those white containers or boat fuel tanks would be no good

This interests me more than it should The bugs form a biofilm, which for all intents and purposes will then be there forever (issue with surgical implants, as even autoclaving isnt guaranteed to kill it all, i.e why house hold sprays say kills 99.9% of bacteria) The layers of bacteria, yeasts, algae etc generally work together. aerobic will be on top, anerobes will be deeper in the layer. Now heres the neeto part - throw some poison on them, it may get some of the first layer, but as they die they will send out signals which tell the surrounding layers to shut up shop/start producing compounds to break down the toxins, or to form spores (the0.01% you will have a near impossible job of killing) As a biotechnologist my advice is; remove one of these carbon for food (cant do it, your fuel is hydrocarbons) oxygen and sulphur for respiration (not practical) trace elements for growth and propagation (perhaps, the main one would be iron, which unless you have plastic tanks you are shit outta luck) dissolved water for germination - this, watertraps and perhaps a cup of meths in the tank to bind up any free water

that is a sweet idea

i think i used to own this/identical one they are 2 or 3 speeds no

looks sweet tell me more of this chain brake setup

Re: lock up i have the morrie + parts + tools in a 4x3m lock up $170 a month, cameras etc everywehre, can go sit in it and make truck noises just a bout whenever

used to be they were all cast iron. Heat transfer isnt too much of an issue, just put an insulating spacer between the carb and manifold

good news everyone wound out some copper tubing (shame most of its hidden, i even made spirals for vibrations) plumbed it into the vac advance line no vacuum.... I figured as much (distributor is a bodge from a landrover i believe, its spins the opposite way than usual) brass T adapter into manifold drain, plugged carb take off, and re routed vac advance. Success, and i can use this point for vac tuning the engine. Its fair close at the moment, and actually having some advance should improve my running untold amounts

rather than risk scratching everything lifting my engine back in, does anyone in hamilton have a crane i can borrow for about half a day. Would just hire one, but they all seem to be the towable ones, which i wont be able to get into the back of the shed to the front of the morrie

30wt mineral oil is the go for morrie arms

got a big roll of this stuff for $1 a while ago did the roof and behind the seat (about half way down the cab, theres no floor behind the seats, so il sort that before putting the rest in) looks a bit saggy il admit, but you wont see that once i make a roofliner panel up If anything this stuff is too thick, getting the rear window trim and interior back in was a bit tight. Should make things nicer inside however

Further truck updates Had this in the morrie yonks ago, now has a new home in the truck (it matches the black faces better) Not really an ideal spot to mount it. I did have my eye on the panel above the drivers seat, however the only place to put it without cutting into the metal panel, would foul on the windscreen hinges when opening. So for now its where the passenger/left hand drive wiper motor would be. Still fairly visible when in the driving position. Some room may free up around the steering column when i switch a few switches around (headlight dip can go back to the horn button, or floor mounted). Secondly Vibrations had caused the steel around the rear facing spotlamp to fail. Annoying because it makes a hell of a noise graunching around, and when it rains it drips directly ontop of my head So i patched the torn section up, then reenforced the area with a mudguard washer, im hoping it will be large enough to prevent the same happening and to prove i didnt wreck anything

burt munro spec this thing's coming along awesome. choice. place the blocks on their sides so you use less blocks seems legit

tbh, i think i could house my vechicles and live in there more than comfortably