tortron

I tried that before I opened it. The cells are fully charged, it seems to be a issue with the board somewhere

No they are all equal

What's the scam here Ryobi 18 4.0 ah battery Issue: doesn't work. Plug into charger and it goes straight to full green light/fully charged. Front led check shows 1/lowest charge Voltage across terminals is 0v Open battery up, test the cells and get 20.8v Thermistor has continuity and 20.5v either side of it. 0 voltage at board for neg terminal Is there a fuse somewhere, I don't see any obvious damage

I believe that's going from matawai to gisborne

I think east cape is just gona be left to the horses at this point

I painted my engine and box with supercheap enamel about 10 years ago and it's still on there despite being British and leaking every fluid known all over. Also holds up to being dragged around the concrete floor. Painted my lathe alloy bits, and alloy nissan gearbag, used etch primer then 2k on top Prep otherwise is waterblasted, scrubbed with petrol, scrubbed with thinners, then a wipe with wax and grease remover. That's probably over kill, my cash money green A series still had some shit on it and thr base coat still stuck I don't like raw aluminium because it goes grubby, some aluminium look paint is a good cover up

You brush engine enamel on to get it nice and thick, it self levels really well

Classic

Also in blue Or red Or orange Or on upside down With body colour stripes on the camper bit looks good I think

I got some from aeroflow, and the tool to make the bubble on the ends

Maybe check the bolt before you put the thermostat back on I'm not familiar with the engine at all, but it looks like it goes somewhere wet to me

It says someone has taken a rear drum, which I don't think is true. If its got a disk rear end I'd be very interested in it

There's a 99/2000 Y11 wingroad at pickapart new plymouth 99/2000s are basically facelifted y10s It's a zvs model which factory has an sr20ve and should have a disk rear end (unfortunately they are cvt)

So the trick for the front brake hoses is use Y11 hoses which are the same length as the y10, and include the banjo locating pin And use the Y11 banjo bolt. It seems that the caliper thread depth is the same, and just threads in less on the y11s for whatever reason Also looks like if you pick the right Y11 it also has these 11c brakes (the one I looked at had the calipers pulled to bits and half missing, but the dust shields measure up)

That sounds like when I had a slightly bent valve. Would go down, come up part way, get slapped and repeat Was hard to diagnose because turning it over by hand the thing would pop up by itself, but e enthalpy caught it sticking

There's always a couple, but usually auto

3 days on a gravel road, at 9000rpm should have the same effect

It looks like an aliexpress xu250 quad cdi https://m.aliexpress.com/item/1005005041555120.html?algo_pvid=298b95c1-51cc-4e8e-9e79-ba3c15fe4600&algo_exp_id=298b95c1-51cc-4e8e-9e79-ba3c15fe4600-50&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"12000031425079853"}&pdp_npi=2%40dis!USD!24.8!24.8!!!!!%40210218bf16747735708082862d06b0!12000031425079853!sea&curPageLogUid=pyJCwrOwAuVi&gatewayAdapt=Pc2Msite

If anyone is wrecking a manual P10, I'd like a couple bits. The front/rear brackets (I suppose the left and right of the engine, whatever the bits that attach to the crossmember are) Are slightly out on the bluebird ones. I can make the ones I have fit, but I think the p10 ones will be juuuuuust right

I think this is a non potted cdi, so you can open it up and replace the capacitors?

AD18v pleb spec caliper on the left AD22v "nx" factory big brake. Stock on the wingroad, desirable in the states as THE upgrade for sentras, found on NX's over there And the hotboy status big p11 11" caliper

For future P11 5 speed more or less will bolt on. Should handle up to 500whp without becoming glitter immediately, daily at around 300 reliably Possibly stronger because has the cool looking finned case which flexes less Has bolts for both top mount and side mount trans mount Can convert to cable using the earlier trans parts with a little grinding and a bushing made for bottom of the shaft. But just convert the car to hydro clutch Believe for open diff, can use that wrong (post 97 date) cv axle on the left side and use the older axle on the right 99p11 has SE-R gear ratios Shifter rod attachment is a bit different, possibly not a problem for me as I have a p10 crossmember and it's offset at that place

In the back seat with a wrx roof scoop is also good

My morrie ones lasted 58 years and then the rear one must have swelled up inside and I had almost no (compared to factory barely any) rear brake pressure.