corrupt

damn thats pricey, kinda keen on some 13x7s to replace the old tridents

using the same as you ay, its interesting though, cause i have two wiring looms for it and they are both slightly different in their wire colours and one has BMW on the plug lol, so anyway i got confused hard. im pretty certain ill be using the same as you, got it ages ago but sure it was on an engine with all the other bs liek stepper motor, intake vacumn etc... wired mine up today using the diagram you posted up, and managed to get it idling but had to take it all off and revert to points because i needa sort out timing light/nice tidy wiring etc. havent touched the box, only the loom.

Had a go at chucking one in the cortina today instead of the points setup. Took me a while to get it going, there was a lot of turning the dizzy, through trial and error to get it to fire up. Got it running and came to the dilema of doing the timing as im a eyes and ears man. For electronic dizzys im guessing that you NEED a timing light correct? Also i pulled the dizzy out to so i could position it better for the vacumn advance hose etc and when i put it back in i couldnt get it to fireup again/resorted to putting points dizzy back in for now. As im only familiar with timing with points/eyes/ears, im confused hard. Am i suppose to intall the dizzy at 0 btdc and rotor pointing spark plug number 1, and then go from there with a timing light, while twisting the dizzy to get the desired advance? Will the engine run at 0 btdc at all/just for testing purposes? Shit thats almost a novel, meh. Enlighten me someone.

should be 8degree btdc. ive owned my cortina for 4 years and always done tunes via eyes and ears. i dont even used a light when doing the points. keen to hear about how your electric dizzy setup went etc, ive had all the shit for a year or so and been meaning to put it in. is that diagram you put up how you wired it all up?

again, ....lol

the only problem i find with my arc would be blowing holes. other than that if you get it to penetrate well its fine imho with a bit of grinding/tidying up afterwards

so whats better, arc or gasless mig?

...lol

cortinas have a clip on the chassis rail to keep it to the side of the engine bay, so probably best to put on the outside

just stop doing skids with an open diff. or just get a cortina, i recently got a meaty falcon borg warner rear axle/diff for the cortina, completely bolt in, simple as that and mightly cheap

pretty sure the last owner went to my school, if thats the case, its got a very gay rice cannon at the back and was quite rofl being 1300 auto. it was completely mint when he first got it, turned to shit though. then again, i could be mistaken.

yep, mk5 has them/never worked ever as the switch is busted. never had any problems with wofs either.

thats definately a job for some fibreglass reinforced filler, weldings just gonna make a mess. what goes around comes around boe, look at it, it already has bog over top of it from the last owner which means you got tucked when you bought it, bet thats not the only place on the car which has been repaired like that aswell.

seriously, just kill rust, bang it in with a hammer, nutec over top, sand smooth repaint etc.. who cant say they havent bought an oldschool car with this standard of job done to it by the previous owner? ive sure had suprises, what goes around, comes around i say. i like buying a car with unrepaired rust, so i can fix it properly myself, once.

dunno any places which do it, but a rebuild usually means stripping the carb down cleaning, and replacing all the seals and o-rings and i cant remember what they are all called but possibly a few of the little brass bits inside aswell

put a sticker over it

newtec boe

newtec boe

i put a pair of austin princess 4 pots on the cortina and i love them, much better than the standard calipers, very easy to lock the brakes up if you wanna (for an old, heavy car). i just linked one of the bleed holes too the 2nd brake line hole with a solid brake line, and slightly elongated one of the mounting holes on each caliper. apart from them two mods they were direct bolt over and i felt was well worth the $100 i picked them up for.

keen, cant wait to get my hands on one

started fixing rust/preparing guards for when it gets slammed on its ass. am quite impressed with how the first one turned out

This car, i bought for $180 when i was 15, and thrashed around an orchard for a week, then parked it up. 3 years later (now) i decide i need a daily, so the escort has steped up from being an eyesore on the front lawn of one of the rentals, to being my gangsta daily ride. plans: fix all rust, theres a lot. keep primered. lower it hard. chuck a set of mags on it. keep it all legit, whilst retaining its rugged look. i plan to not spend much time/money on this, reason being i want a car that i dont care about so much, which i can park dodgy places/ let people sit on the bonnet without having a fit etc etc

didnt know shapeshifter went.....

can you get the rear face of the mag machined down to reduce the offset? meh i dunno. they look good though, heaps better than the old set.

yeh, a few things have come up on trademe which they were selling that i was quite keen on, but never have bought anything off them because of the shit ive heard about them.