Nominal

Could possibly fail under the '50mm' rule, but you'll probably be OK if you clean it up first. https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vehicle-structure/structure-incl2.-frontal-impact

Not that I know of, Probably original, I haven't changed them in the 20 years I've owned it. IIRC I did swap the M/C with a spare that had been sleeved in brass way back when.

Next time I have to work on them I'll pull the rear cylinders (fronts seemed fine this time, clamped the hose to the diff and they were all good) and have a look inside them. M/C is a bugger to get out so less keen on dealing with that.

Drum Brakes - why do I keep having to bleed the damn things? Where is the air getting in - it seems to be at the wheel cylinders but hard to be sure.........

Sap two Morrie ones on it? /slow internets suck.

Slap a Morrie one on it.

Slap a Morrie one on it.

I'd suggest you call the lvvta number and have a chat.

Only first registered post 1 April 1994 will have a VIN. I would have though that a chassis number would be OK for certificaction?

Professional troglodyte.

Time for a career change?

In like flynn

Take care spraying epoxy - get the right protective gear. When I started spraying I stuck with single stage paints for safety reasons.

Basically, living the dream then?

eh, what's the worst that can happen........ How much steel is in the bodywork/floor?

I built my own rear trailing links and such with a MIG. No particular inspection or weld testing was needed. If its a critical weld (e.g. front suspension) then NDT is required. Otherwise just reasonable quality welds seem to be OK. You can check with the local C-man if you like.

You could try reading on https://www.electricalforum.co.nz Prepare for lots of this sort of thing:

Bought one of these from Moortool for the same $139 this week. Tried it out tonight, and it's amazingly better than the cigweld one I have been using. Might actually be able to see what I'm doing with the weld pool now.

Paging @Spencer I put a lot of effort into this on the roof of my wagon, including sanding, wire brushing, metal prep (phosphoric acid) and undiluted hydrochloric acid (concrete etch type) multiple times. Still had some black spots/pits after all that so I just etch primed it and carried on.

Really really sure that the ignition timing is right and not 180 out?

Only if they exceed the threshold

I expect that these are all 15A, so won't necessarily work on a 10A household socket.

Popular place

Why, yes, should be attending.