Nominal

The original woodie sills have a special shape (AFAIK the cars aren't the same). This is a pic of a good one from an ebay auction. I want to reproduce this if possible for repair certification reasons mostly. The blue woodie has a plain vertical piece there I think (can't check as it is still in lockdown at the painters for a roof touch up). At least it's easy to see what is required when the whole sill comes off the car.... First attempt is to make a press tool and form from a chunk of wood: Top plate from some 3mm steel: Give it a squish: Not great, I have the z-fold a bit wrong in this test piece. Currently refining the lower form and will have another go.

Bent up some new body to chassis mounts, one for each side. I had new panels for these floor pieces in my USA order. At the time I wasn't sure how much remained to reproduce them from. They wouldn't have been too hard to made.

I've bought part-sheets of steel from these guys when they were in Newtown. https://www.kiaorametalindustriesltd.com/ I'd go with 1mm for panel repairs, and the inner sill is probably the same - check the what's left of the original. You can get full sheets from steel and tube etc, it's not terribly expensive. This was my last order early last year.

Depends, do you ever want to drive it, or it to be a forever project?

Made some holes in the reinforcing plates. These punches do a nice job. And did some more cutting. First to go is this bit of the floor and the remainder of the inner sill. Body mount bolt put up a bit of a fight but some heat and the impact gun got it off OK.

Oh, if we are doing ling posts, I have a whole Nissan N12 dizzy in my A-series. No issues in about 18 years.

Looks like the Powerspark kit. See here, says coil resistance should be > 1.5 ohm https://blog.simonbbc.com/2019/04/24/fitting-a-powerspark-electronic-ignition-kit-picture-guide/

Just did a test on my Morrie. My battery is good. 11V at battery when cranking. Probably the low cranking voltage is upsetting the electronix.

Got sidetracked into Holden and Morris brake work-overs for a few weeks. Took out the remainder of the back seat support structure which has been soaking in the molasses for a few weeks now. Made two new pieces for the bottom of the B-pillar, one for each side. Surprising how much softer the non-zintec steel is, even though they are both 18g. I'm out of the zintec right now but have most of a sheet of normal CR sheet to work with.

Same.

Sketch of what you are thinking? If it's like the pic below then it needs to be 50x5mm

Man, what a trial. I'm casually looking out for a FE C6 for future upgrades.

Shouldn't need an official repair certification then as I understand things, just what ever your wof place is satisfied with. If not, they have this option https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vehicle-structure/structure-incl2.-frontal-impact#note3

For a WOF, or for revin as per Runamuck?

Tawa for commuting reasons? Pretty big place too IIRC.

Is it reg on hold?

Yeah, I don't think they'll let that slip by.

This might be the thing Clint was referring to? https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/safety_alerts/LVVTA_Safety_Alert_04-2020_Sub-standard_Suspension_Arms.pdf Also see this and the bit about replicating OE retention for balljoints https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01-2012_Custom_Suspension_Arm_Inspection_Approval.pdf Although if it's a common and reputable aftermarket brand it should be OK?

Don't use a cheap flare kit IMO. I tried one for brakes and it sucked so much a bought an old used one that was so much better.

The fuel pump bypass check valve is probably to allow you to use the electric pump in conjunction with a mechanical pump on the engine (usual USA V8 style) I run mine without that, just a filter directly before the pump. I took off the mechanical pump.

They'll only pay $2.50 for Mitsi's though

A fool and his tool money are soon parted

Remember how long they were selling new L300's though

That is a specific approach from the govt https://rightcar.govt.nz/scrapping-a-vehicle