Nominal

Wooden car distractions. It's been 17 years I think since this one was re-finished with Sikkens outdoor furniture finish. It's lasted well but needed re-doing as it had failed in some areas and the wood was turning grey. A number of evenings with 80 grit sandpaper, head gun, scrapers etc got it off. Just did the exterior this time, and left the side glass in. Hope that doesn't bite me in the future. Bleached the wood to tone in the different coloured areas with Oxalic acid. I used some leftovers to clean up the Townace, it works well in removing rust stains and random overspray from careless previous owners. Looked good when dried out.

Good choice. I only have regrets from wrecker radiators.

There's a Resene Industrial (RALI) place in the Hutt that I've used previously, been OK but I haven't visited lately.

This is part of my last order from Steel and Tube Uncoated bare steel so will go rusty, but I find it is a bit easier to bend/shape than the electrogalv / zinetec sheet. Usually I use 1mm, but sometimes 1.2 or thicker depending on the original sheet thickness. I got some part-sheets of the thicker stuff in electrogalv from kia ora sheet metal in Wellington, probably somewhere in Palmy you can get it. This is from the Steel and Tube catalogue

That's easy, just fill it up with water and turn the pump on.

You don't need to be a certified welder for that sort of thing.

Does look too bad, apart from the rust. Hope there's no nasty surprises there. I always remind my wof man that I don't have any windscreen washers 'fitted' which means they don't need to work to be legal (I think there is a pump but not much else on the car)

No good for cert or for wof I suppose you might get away with it if they don't look modified?

Maybe you need a fabricated puller like this, to apply force better/more evenly. It looks like there are threaded holes in the drum to bolt it to?

The question made me wonder so I went and had a closer look and there is actually a plate that can be removed under the front seat for access to the MC reservoir. Still not very accessible though.

I've got a certed vehicle where the booster and M/C is under the floor so to check it you need to have it on a lift, remove the cap, and use a mirror or something as there isn't much clearance.

The LVVTA Threshold doc states what you can do before needing a cert https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf Also from the VIRM https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vehicle-interior/seats-and-seat-anchorages There is no issue with removing seats

I sprayed some Roth flake on the Morris Oxford roof, just mixed with clear and used one of the guns I already had iirc. Worked OK

I got one of these sets a couple of years back from Amazon, has the same sort of crimp head as Datlow's https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Interchangeable-Insulated-Non-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B0195VXA10

I use 0.6mm. I think I have boc stuff at present, but doubt that brand matters much.

They can also get you on this section

How about this cutie, made in Hastings https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/business-farming-industry/industrial/manufacturing-metalwork/welders/listing/3773268430

If it's a Ranger you'll be fine.

You mean you have a lot of stretch on the tyre so the rim is out wider than the tread? It looks like they could pull you up on that.

I'm wondering

Saw an alloy driveshaft loop the other day, was pretty thicc

Was for sale in TM for 28k https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/toyota/listing/3671807947

On-call this week so won't make it. Bring on DLS!

Great minds have spoken!

Couldn't find an existing discussion thread so.. Looks like an achievable project - good work on the rusty bits so far. The M/C looks like it has been sleeved with brass, you might get away with a hone, but probably stainless steel sleeves will be needed as you said.