HUNTD

lol so do people still cruise te rapa?

keen to come take photos

hilux with 2jzge. was pretty straight foward swap. looks pretty stealth, but sounds awesome when it gets going

ditto with hunter... some random number. no vin plate.

SOLD you boes missed out on a bargin. meh so good to have some space again!

yuh

welcome to the hunter club lol

mean. i want

dibs for a left over hoodie! will pay asap etc...

wear a red hat or something lol

haha whats that meant to mean. duno if the place is baby friendly so maybe not

keen. altho unlikely to be rolling os ride atm.

possibly keen depending on where abouts. sure mr flaws will be keen for beers.

yup staff prices are piss all.

i will get jarred to help me check cos i was trying to hold lead and turn key = hard. but couldnt see any spark when i tried. wouldnt suprised if it was dizzy bits, they seem to fuck out yearly, but usually just gives me shit idle. im only guessing its the dizzy cos its doing the same thing last time i fried one (but that was using ballast coil cos i was noob)

nah plugs are fine. theres no spark and no fungiiis

Any other way to test other than chucking the lead on car and turning over? I get nothing doing that so im guessing it is the coil. granted that i just replaced it with an even older one off my parts car. Excuse baby brain prolly missing something simple as but yea cant think. Non ballast btw, new battery and hasnt run for a decent time for about a year. i just started it up and turned off.

it would be if the codes afterwards are the same = same one would presume. 8, 12, 16 and l,m and txa, taa, tb, tfa etc.... not that everything in the whole list is the same. like just going through that list a gx81 and jzx81 = same, jzx100 and jzx105 = same. So for an 86 this list is irrelevant as nothing else uses the same.

twas the plan, but yea.. and lol +1 on the choke.

these are the specs of the regrind i was/may do some time in future Adv 290 degrees 230@050" Lobe centre 108 degrees Cam lift .300"

oh yea if you want pre load dailed in correctly we can do that at my work providing you have shims etc jarred

rgds jarred lol

what i done when i changed my open diff to my trd one on my chaser was this pulled the bearings off using a modded gear puller ( had to due to were the bearings sat ) when i pulled the shims out i made sure they went back in on the correct side changed centers over ( easy also used new crown wheel bolts ex toyota ) when it came to re-assembly of everything i sat the diff in the craddle, making sure it was meshhing correctly, placed the shims/washers in on there correct side's. torqued the bolts up on the caps then got engineers blue and chucked it on three of the crown wheel teeth rotated the crown wheel in till the ink came back around and used that to check for meshing probs as the crownn wheel turns and meshs with the pinon it whips the ink off on the surfaces that touch each other and you can tell weather or not you have good teeth contact most bearings now days you can get about 100k kms out of ( un opened of coarse ), but if i were you man i would change them, regardless if there notchy or not, just for peace of mind tell me what the bearing numbers are and i can get them at cost + 10%

Why suggest it then... why give advise that you know is going to fail and cause problems? What the hell does your speel have to do with "is it worth putting twin webbers on a hillman hunter?"

Sorry love he is correct. Either cast iron or aluminium head. If hes got the iron head its probably worth getting the carbs just for the manifold. they seem pretty uncommon. And skimming is worthwhile if using the aluminium head because they are so prone to heat/warpage. franklin cams have a good cam regrind available, cant remember specs of top of my head. kelford didnt really have an idea of what to do with hunter cam last time i contacted them You should do your exhaust first tho. makes heap of difference