oldrx

I mean if i was to go over the diff, would you just keep it as close to the floor as possible? Think im gunna go under anyway - i guess im gunna have to sort suspension first before finishing exhaust so i can make sure it has clearance at max droop... or just do it 3 times like everything else

Is it ok to go under diff with exhaust (2.5")? Will be getting certed anyway. Have to do some measuring but think this may be a better option for a pretty low car? How do you measure body to diff clearance? Jack up the diff with a wheel on the best way?

What application? 1.5L/min is only 24 gph - doesnt seem like much compared to Holleys/Carters which are usually around 70-100 gph

It is a mission, i found the drying and drying and guessing if it was dry enough (needs to be crazy dry) before starting the worst

Nice car! What does chamfered E-Shaft mean?

Was going to put up this as a question but found the below legendary how-to, so just chucking it up in case its of use; http://turbostude.com/ozmod.htm

And im done $10.08 incl shipping for 25, anyone need some 5mm caps will only need about 6, couple of spares, leaves 15 left over

Nice find, $3.55 for 25 is a lot better than $8.xx for a supercheap taxed pack. Not sure why I care so much about $5 but for a 0.5c item it grates a little. Also nice work OS, so much info in so little time, no man is an island etc

Must have been failing coz i order everthing online and try to avoid shops at all cost/gotta leverage every minute these days

^ Righto cheers

Thought it would easy to find these, not so much. Anyone know where you can buy them? I need some to suit vac pipes off carb approx 5.5mm OD at the bead.

Wicked shit man, cant wait to see some vids

As it is mech secondaries you prob need to mod the accel pump to get a bigger squirt as they open so much faster than vac sec its common to get a lean stumble. I've seen various combinations of; grinding the stops down, mod the linkage for a longer stroke, make a spacer between pump and carb body to increase the volume it can hold, drill out the passages in the ali two pronged squirter bit (cant remember correct name atm, will look it up), drill out the jet Have a look around rx7club.com May pay to check its operating at least to factory spec first; https://free-info-pages.com/rx7-carburetor-accelerating-issues.htm

Hard to say i used the left over on the outside and it sets like concrete im pretty sure it'll be sweet

Ive used the por15 kit and it works mint so long as you follow the instructions to the tee

http://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/uhhh-trippy-ass-rotors-s4-tii-check-em-out-993537/

Turns out it just needed bleeding again and a bit better haha thanks for replies though

Yeah wondered about that. When i pump the pedal with bonnet up i can hear like a squishy fluidy noise not sure if this is normal or not

So put new pads in the rear (a32 cefiro) - took me ages to work out that the caliper piston screws in meanwhile I was trying to force it in with G clamp and then intermittently smashing clockwise in with hammer and screwdriver (sister in law had a audi that you had to do that way) before figuring you just screw the fucking thing in goddamit. Bled the rear. Now the brake pedal goes to the floor with just a little resistance - enough to stop at low speeds (havent tried high speeds despite contemplating suicide while trying to fix POS car with POS skills). Bled again no change With car not running the pedal is also soft (but not as much) and sinks to floor. Wondering if i have fucked a caliper?

0-120 degrees & 0-160 psi Smiths dual gauge - supposed to be for oil and water almost at bottom of page http://www.gaugeguys.com/Smiths/classic.htm

oooh yeah righto

whats/where is a gusset?

oh well if you crack it bro chuck up the part numbers heaps of cats around would be keen i'd say

s3 are but rx2 studs come out of the hubs, totally independent of the brake disc (that bolts to the back of the hub). So you would have to use the hub too (or they might be one piece not sure) either way it will be a fuck around as the stub axles are different. I.e spacers or different bearings to compensate. It is possible to use the whole strut but everything time ive read about it the attempter seems to regret it as it totally fucks the camber. Pretty much new hubs are the best way that ive come across. Not to say there arent other ways if you're engineering clevers are up to it.