DJZ

The wheels that are on it in the 2nd picture used to belong to me hah, that's DB's driveway by the way Damien. I have some not so fond memories of trying to get that thing home when Zac first bought it.

Good score man, what motor does it have in at the moment again?

I don't know anything about rotaries but have been told by several people that motors make more power with the crankcase under slight vacuum. I thought about this long and hard on my setup as RBs are known to have problems with pressurising the crankcase and not allowing oil to return into the sump. I ended up joining the two rocker cover breather vents together and venting them in front of the turbo, my theory on this is that under boost there will be some slight vacuum/suction there and under boost is when you want it venting the most, rather than having a PCV valve so it only vents when the inlet manifold is under vacuum. The RBs don't have a vent for the crankcase itself (like the old L series motors do) but I've even heard of some people removing the dipstick and running a line from there. My rocker covers are baffled pretty well so there shouldn't be any chance of it sucking oil up. There are things for venting the fumes directly into the exhaust as well, these are supposed to create some vacuum using a slash cut pipe I believe. Obviously you need a one way valve in there.

It's not cool.

Yeap, over and under style.

Looking good man, so how'd you get on with the motor/sump clearing the original front crossmember?

Does your sump have the right angle on the bottom of it to match the lean of the motor?

I know it's not the answer you are looking for but I bought 6 plugs with pigtail hoses minus the boots off Ebay for around $40 with free postage. http://www.ebay.com/itm/RC-Fuel-Injector-Connector-Plug-Clips-EV1-Bosch-6-Clips-/380407876613?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5892138c05&vxp=mtr Do Petroject not sell the terminals on their own? You could have a look through the Narva catalogue for them?

Been working through a couple of little bits and pieces now that it's legal. First one has been that it developed really, really squealy brakes all of a sudden a couple of weeks ago. I took everything apart, cleaned it and put it back together 3 times and it was still doing it. I noticed that the pads were quite tight to get in and out so it looks like with R32 GTR rotors and R33 GTS-25t calipers if you use new pads with rubber backing they are too tight and are constantly up against the rotor. So last night I ripped the rubber backings off, sprayed the pads with CRC anti squeal stuff and sanded the pads down a little bit, and today no more squealy brakes! Only problem is this has affected the master cylinder adjustment, it seemed pretty good when I put everything together originally but it must have been because the pads were right up against the rotor to start with. Now the brake pedal was pretty much just off the stopper before anything happened. I've adjusted the master cylinder push rod tonight, test drive tomorrow and hopefully it'll be fixed. Managed to get the final couple of interior bits that my car has been missing ever since I got it and some unbroken a pillar trim that I'll put in at some stage as they require removal of the glove box and instrument cluster which needs to come out as there is a blown bulb in for the fuel gauge. Other than that the car seems to be going all good, pretty hard on the ass driving around with worn out seats and the roads the way they are. I've still got some FD RX7 seats but I don't think there is much of a hope of them fitting. Still looking at getting a clutch maybe end of next week.

Bit late to the party there, he's already bought a motor. To insert an image you need to add [!img] to the start of the link and [!/img] to the end minus the two !s.

What do the rear struts look like? On most of the 80s rear drive Nissans they are a sealed strut without removable inserts, so you won't be welding coilover sleeves on to them.

What is his business?

RB30 Patrol: 200ZR:

Yeap, Patrol or Z31 200ZR. Some of the Patrol or RD28 sumps have an extra bowl piece at the bottom which makes them really tall. Or you could cut and rotate a front sump.

Yeap out Hornby way there is a apparently a half set up Pick a Part that's been like that for a few years from what I hear. The Pick a Part man holding the spanner is there. Will be super sweet if it does open, then Damien won't have to do missions for me!

Yeah man, super happy but I've still got heaps to do.

There is a whole bunch of info around from guys that have done it to Pintaras etc in OZ, it shouldn't be too hard. You'll need S13 bottom arms, knuckles, brakes, coilovers and a cert.

Warranted, suckas!

Got the letter today saying my cert plate is ready, will take the car down on Monday and hopefully it'll be legal by the end of the day! Had some trouble with the chassis number just like I did last time, someone has entered it into the LTSA system as an H5130 rather than an HS130, should really try and get that fixed.

You watch it buddy or else your 4G might accidentally fall out of the back of the van into a scrap metal dealers on the way to work tomorrow.

I jest ye not, and don't call me Shirley. Nah, the Z is long over due for some body work, rust repairs and fresh paint but when it actually happens I want it done properly so it's going to be a very long and expensive process. I'd rather have the RB in something then have it sitting in a corner, it won't be permanent.

Take the joint + shaft down to Repco or where ever and match one up.

That letter I believe is reasonbly standard, Prozac has had one from the cops before, many years ago. If you get "seen" doing something or somebody just doesn't like you all they have to do is ring 555 or ring up the local cop shop and you will probably get a letter like that in the mail.

Mine is Redline stuff too from memory. It lost heaps of dye when I was wetting it to put it on and went kind of grey, I haven't done that many k's yet.

Yeah, nah.