fuel

bro that sucks hard. was that insurance valuations or a car dealer/classic car valuator? If it was just the insurance valuation you can still get a valuation from a car yard or classic car dealer. It's not fair that you come out worse off here, it wasn't your fault and you shouldn't be out of pocket after this whole ordeal. Just keep at the insurance co (I gather it's the other guy's insurance co who is trying to stiff you?). Tell them to find you a Mk II Cortina in no worse condition than yours - once they realise they can't, maybe they'll pay out more.

Thanks Callum I didn't realise such a thing existed - I'll see if Stocks has them as that's where I'm getting my threaded sleeves from. Cheers

I'm all sorted for the front boe am using starion inserts which will be shortened, they have plenty of stroke. It's the rears which I'm having trouble with, because they are a sealed unit I can't just whack any insert in and put the nut back on - I need to find a strut with the same or similar OD I can chop the tops off so I'll have a threaded section and a nut to capture the inserts. I could use Starion front struts as they are the same OD, but I'm a bit hesitant to chop up a pair of them... You dig?

black sludge at top of radiator suggests BHG.. happened to me too, no milky oil and ran on all four with 185psi compression still - I didn't even know anything was wrong until I checked my radiator one day.

hey guys, I need to find a pair of struts suitable for taking the threaded top off to weld to my shortened struts, which are about 55mm OD. So I need to find struts which have a similar OD size, and has removable inserts - doesn't matter if it's front or rear. Cheers!

that sucks bro, he was definitely deemed as being at fault by the police eh? Hope insurance comes through, but probably not before trackday is the grey one up for trackday? haha

haha yeah what sorta car maker makes a sealed strut, then puts what looks like a strut insert nut on the top?! ... Mitsubishi of course...

some more pics: new arrival - evo manifold, fuel rail and AFM: the TC06 turbo I'll use temporarily while it's still SOHC: cleaned up the engine bay some: and last but not least, found some sweet retro 80s shelf speakers - they sound pretty good:

chur boe asked she thinks her old man has some but not able to get them til later on.

hey guys I need a big fuck off pipe wrench or a set of stilsens to take off the nut holding my strut inserts in, anyone of you ham boes have anything? chur

maybe try putting more than $7 into it you poor cunt, that's like not even 4L. It could still be below the fuel pickup in the tank. Also, that silver box with heatsink behind coil is a ballast pack for the injectors I'm pretty sure.

about time someone lowered it

I'm going with thirteen... and look at chris.. looks like he's about to back kick her the fuck out

go to a car dealer who deals with classic cars, get it valued - you'll find someone who will be able to see what condition it was in before hand, and who is able to take the modifications and certification into account. With a proper valuation on paper the insurance co will have to abide by it, even if it's for 5k it's better than $1500. I was in the same situation when my sigma gsr-x was written off years ago by a drunk crashing into me, insurance co only wanted to pay $3000 or something real low, but I got it valued by the car dealership who sold it originally, and by looking at the interior, engine condition etc (even though the exterior was completely smashed up) they were able to come to a value of $6.5k.

shit man yeah that's some pretty nasty damage right there - I can see how close the gap is between the rear door and the wheel arch. I hope you come out better off from insurance, you shouldn't be out of pocket because of something which wasn't your fault.

^^ I reckon. Could hardly get a word in with that guy around.

any pics yet?

most would be the same, maybe camshaft caps might be a different torque setting - head bolt settings should be the same

can you use a pair of calipers from a KE70 or AE85 or similar? they may have the same mounting spacing and their discs are around that size too.

front pulley on them is held on by 4 10mm bolts so you wont need a harmonic balancer puller. I haven't had to use one yet, soaking with CRC and tapping around the outside has always worked for me.

If you are reusing the original rods and pistons, label them so they don't end up back in another bore (specifically the pistons). Older 4G63s use normal head bolts, not torque to yield like newer engines do, so you can reuse the headbolts time and time again, but it might pay to measure them anyway incase they have been stretched before. For the sake of $40 for new headbolts, I'ld replace them anyway. Get a machine shop to hone your bores and check the crank journal sizes - it'll cost under $100 and it'll save alot of pissing around and it will ensure things are completely sweet, having said that we rebuilt a 4G37 with a three prong stone hone and electric drill and to this day it doesn't use oil and has good compression.

^^^ what he said

So yuh.. springs kinda fell out and were accidentally chopped has been re-vinned too. Big ups to ZzzzZane, boe-rod, loceda and spank diddy

man that rear suspension setup is wacky. 2 deg of negative camber on the rear standard haha. volvo always make quirky and wacky cars, and this is one of them. I love it. What's that guage on the right for? it measures temp in both - and +?

these are quite FWD offset with +40mm. They may stick a bit too far in the guards, although Nissans usually have quite positive offset wheels factory.