drftnmaz

its not normally the center or (spigot) that needs maching down its the outter surface around the studs because the new disc is now gonna slot over top of studs insted of bolting from behind.... IMO sechond hand disc's are worth about $40-50, price up some new ones, they might only be $130 or so, maybe even some slotted ones if you wanna get fancy

cool good to hear its sorted... i take it you didnt need to build the signal inverter i sent you plans for? i thought it all sounded a little off damn parts guys

theres a guy around that does escort stuff, he makes ramps for hilux diffs, send him your standard lsd and he'll replace the sping loaded center thinging with ramps, bout $600? prob more by now...

so is the right rear 5mm higher than the left rear? is so wind up left front to get it even, you sorta need to go for a drive round the block to let it settle after adjusting aswell in my head it sounds like the left front needs to be wound up a little and maybe the crossmeber lossened then crowbar'd across then re tightened then same on top hats and i'd say you'll get your figures much closer have you measured all those other bits we talked about earlier? need to check those so your not chasing your tail all day i just noticed your toe is neg on one side and postivite on the other, this would mean those figures arn't on center, that with the left side having more caster could give a greater camber angle on the left because its turning inwards so maybe its alot closer to even when wheels are straight?

when the rear is not adjusable then i would measure that to set the front, you might find you need to wind the front up at one side to get the weight sitting even, just a thought really, you need to measure all that other stuff first tho usally easyist to masure on the rear is from top of rim to guard lip, but this isn't the most accurate way but best place to see how uneven it is

are your rears adjustable? are you measureing from the sills to set the height?

then stub axel angle by measureing how close the rim is to the strut at top and compare with other side, see if crossmember can be slid side to side, then see if top hats can be rotated to give differnt offset, i'd also be looking at the height to see if its sitting even, if a shock was leaking and one corner was 10mm lower? wouldnt expect it to affect it that much...

normally if the wheel alignment place is gonna factor in for the curve of the road you would run a little more caster on the left.... and its pretty common for camber to be uneven... but a whole degree is quite alot IMO, as a rough guide you need to move 10mm to change a degree, so id start by measureing lower arms and make sure there the same

i got a ultrasonic cleaner aswell but ive been told your ment to do it in water which seemed odd so ive never tryed it, someone on here must have worked somewhere thats done it before? ultrasonci cleaner for $150? damn the one i got here was like 3500 and i thought it was a cheapy

.2 camber is stuff all differance really, most alignment people wouldnt worry at all... as a rough guide you'll have to move it 2mm to adjust it, so you might be able to undo bolts and push things with crow-bar and re-tighten, or maybe even file the holes your caster is abit wack... most alignment places will tell you its not adjusable but it is! its those bars going forward to the rad support from the lower arms, i would want this even (although some do run it slighlty off to make up for curve of road) yours was at .4 and 1, i would be running as much as i could while still keeping it even, will give you good turning grip, i'd be going for about 2-to-2.5degrees if it was my car, evening this out might bring your camber closer aswell i think they run this quite low to make up for the crap tyres they had back in the 80's

whatever discs you run you'll have to remove bearing to get old backing plate off (or cut with grinder) and also get outter edge of drive flange machined down on lath to sit nicely inside new disc im gonna be doing the s13disc and ae92 calliper to mine soon, did some rough measureing wen i got the setup and i think if you got a plate cut from 16mm? steel it would all line up pretty easy, i think the s14 are 5 stud so have a look at there disc's?

hey man sorry i forgot to reply, been abit busy... anyway i was wrong about using a transistor, they need a postive input to switch a postivite out the best thing i have come up with so far is using a 555 timer in Monostable mode, as a switch, but am a little confused as to weather you have to have add a cap and reisistor to get the timing/delay right, will try and get some time to look back over my notes to confirm, if not i'll be seeing my really smart mate on wensday and he will be able to tell me off the top of his head

haha sorry man... a simplier way to look at it is a transistor is a amp and relay built into one, so you use a small signel (say 2v) to turn it on/off and it will amplifly it letting the 12v through and on the way out (input signal will control how strength of output) so in your case we put 12v+ on the collector, then your trigger from the dissy (neg-) can go into the base and the emitter is the new postive output so every time it gets a neg signal then it opens the gate and lets the + through

rite, so your green wire coming from dissy gives neg trigger and you think the ignitor wants a postive trigger (ive never seen a dissy output a postive trigger so it seems weird that someone would make a unit to run it, but if its for the russians who knows) its been a while since ive played with electronics but op amps can be used to invert the signal and output the opsosite but you may need to smooth the signal etc... i'll have a good think about it tonight and see if i can come up with something simple just thinking about it and a even simplier way is a transistor, use your trigger on the base, post on collector and emmitter would be your output to the transistor your using, just want to avoid amping the signal

its more the internal resistance of the coil that matters, so you can get round ones for elect ignition, and you may even have a kit deisgned to work on most coils yea no point in running two earths how did you come to the conclusion it was a positive trigger system? have you got a multimeter with dwell or something? and i googled that ingitor to try and get diagram and its seems its off or is a replacement for a lada

is the brown one form the dissy also going to the neg of coil? if so remove it and it should go (put on body earth) also you need the right type of coil to go with elec dissy, but your ignitor looks pretty beefy so should last a while with wrong coil

i'd need to see a complete diagram of how its hooked up but you would probaly use a Op amp to invert the signal, but im also not sure of how much current is going through so would need to perhaps step it down into the op amp then back up after from your pics it seems like you have alot of wires on your coil, and ive never seen a postive trigger system

i take it you guys arn't worried about the threads rusting over time? the threaded sections you buy at geogre stocks are cad plated, although some burns off when welding it on. I thought they had two options in length, one at about 100mm and the other longer, i always thought springs had to be captive when adjusted down for a cert so never bothered with longer versions just in case they undid themselves, but im probally wrong. cut and shorten the tubes with two bits of angle iron is how i normally do it i tryed threading up some tube on the lath then used some big nuts from steel and tube, but they were cast and the threads didnt hold, needed a finer pitch for more strength

personally i really like readings Steve's tech view on why things work, gives you a real insite as to why and how your doing things, not just doing it cause everyone else is and its sounds like a good idea, but no need to take digs and get angry at each other over different views

bnt autostop etc can get bundy tube, usally in 5m rolls, think mine was about $7m at trade price this was a while ago now, and its worth spendng the $ on a decent bending tool and also i should mention its the worst job to do, i would say it was the hardest/most annoying thing of my sr20 to ke70 conversion

so the setup at the moment is front end 8kg coilovers trd ae92 inserts 58mm cut off strut body 22mm longer lower arms rose jointed caster arms RCA's camber plates ae85/ke70 brakes with metal king pads 25mm sway bar strut brace bar linking caster mounts fender braces Rear leaf springs no brakes no sway bar (but have ordered one from whiteline) 4wd van front shocks bar linking rear chassis floor cut and new rear section of tunnel remade motor sr20det black top s/s manifold with BB t28 evo7 cooler trust oil cooler (not finished installing yet) big sump with baffels recyc blow off valve k&n filter s13 computer wheels change from week to week

well its been almost 2 years since i updated this... woops so much shit has changed since then, went to a downdraft blow-tho asain carb 5k (O dish) with vf10, rebuild it with molly rings, ported head, 272degree cam etc blew ALOT of diffs and axels and about 8 g/boxes, ended up with hilux 1420mm rear end(standard 1400) and a t40 box, this motor got tired from my bad tuning so slammed a 4k in there with hks manifold and vf10 with smaller front mount and shorter piping and went to a drift day, it didnt last long and melted a hole in no 3 after that i wanted more power and friend had a written off s13 sitting on his lawn he had to get rid of so i gave him $1800 and sold about a $1000 worth of stuff off it and put rest in my wagon i could keep writing all day but don't have the time my old daily starlet \/

dope car man 165 on 8's damn that will look hardcase... i think some longer lower arms would really finish the front end off nicely, will get the wheels sitting abit further out, giving you more inner guard clearance and more camber

like the others said, comply it while its standard or you could run into issues with picky testing station guys, but assuming your talking about a corolla dx then there isn't anything off the shelf that will make it LOW, lower yes but not low, kings will drop you about 35-50 depending on which ones you get

ive often wondered what the correct way of plumbing crackcase system as ive seen so many different ways my sr20det setup is about the best ive seen so far, it has 3 ports in rocker cover, two one one side goto catch can and also T off to the turbo intake, the other one goes to a PCV valve to inlet manifold, and the catch can also has a drain that goes back into the block, this is the factory system if it was my car i'd rock into a mechanics and ask them to TeeKay test it, which will check if theres any fuel/oil vapours in the cooling system,its the easyist thing to rule out, then do a leak down test for peace of mind