dabuzz

yes epoxy, ive been recommended it, just was completely different to anything ive seen myself so I had to ask, shiny as, Can go straight over bare metal does not need etch, as far as I have researched you cant put epoxy over etch anyway Says Dark grey but is nearly white

Thanks, Gave them a call, they agreed its not like normal primers and essentially looks like a top coat.(weird looking), they assured me its the right stuff. Will perservere with it and hopefully the car comes out OK It better be, complete bare metalled shell under, over, inside etc will be a giant f*&k up if its not

Paint help, I bought this primer on recommendation, car is getting bare metaled and I started spraying this primer on. When it dries it doesn't have the rough finish a normal primer has instead it's super glossy. Has anyone used it that can tell me if that is normal for this brand?

nice - small but worthy update , bet you are happy as to get the bay primed - so it looks like you stripped by hand as much as possible then just blasted anyway,

I did the very same thiong a few weeks back - that first turn gives ya the sh!ts, hoping the whole thing doesnt fall over, then ping ping ping - handle Run a bar between each stand to help stablise the stands so they dont spread when you shift it around. As for the car- very nice, got a major soft spot for 25's, my first ever project car was one. Keep the updates coming

awesome, cheers for the tips lads

i was more referring to steel on steel rather than cavities. anyway- loving your build/tech threads, the step by steps are a great learning tool for a novice like me.

Love the build, i have a question as Im thinking fo getting my guards/doors dipped. once dipped obviously every nook and cranny gets washed out and back to bare steel, what is the trick for getting areas sealed/treated properly in between two panels that have a large contact area such as the wings at the rear edge of the front guard. there is a contact patch of about 30-50mm down that whole edge, left untreated it would start to rust inside out i presume.

took these a little while back - not magazine quality sorry Was cool to see it out driving, My first car was a GTO, always have a soft spot for them PS - keep the louvre

Yes and yes! - always wondered if this got finished - looks awesome, cant believe it sat there that long so close to completion

So sweet, good to see my car listed correctly as well - RE capella coupe Jan 72 $3914 At $200 dearer than the sedan, its a fair point there is less of them around

Not my old one, Scotty (RX4TZN) started building that for a 1300 2 door but sold it all up, You should do it though, major wank factor for the flat peaks, and the girlies are more likely to show you a boob or two. power delivery is real nice too. I was interested to see how all your underbody prep was going, mines at the same stage

its time for an update, i need inspiration

I guess it may come down to how much you will actually use the car. E.g - my last rotor only went 20,000k in the 11 years i owned it, so yea only reason PC would really shit itself would be the prep. stuff it im just gonna do mine by hand , etch prime and a good ol can of emanel black! - see how it goes

Powder coating looks nice, i have heard mixed opinions on PC vs paint, been weighing it up myself, either way having a super clean setup always looks the goods

Got the cover- nice work

if youre willing to travel the greater Auckland area, North Harbour metal polishers do wheels. I have found out lately that a lot of polishing companys do not do wheels

I know a guy on the shore who might do ya garnish for you, works from home as something to do on the side from his normal job, ill hit him up, otherwise there is a guy in gleneden who is a real hermit but does awesome work, ill see if I can get his details too

Great progress, keep at it and you'll be rolling in no time Very cool car

Yep bugger all around, so an original or resto-mod, at best will fetch good coin if sold. There are loads of people dreaming of a 2 coupe find, def one of the most sought after mazdas. Are you sure yours is 75? As the dogbone taillights were fitted at that stage. Could of been one that sat in the showroom a bit longer More pics!

You can buy either all orange or all clear lenses from phills rotaries in australia. Imo, deleting factory body parts isnt a good idea on cars as rare as these

Sweet, another 2 coupe build I can rob ideas from,this one looks a mint base Lots of pics please

Ball joints will be ok, the stubs are very noticable in size difference The other main diff is the diamter whrre it presses in, about 4+mm difference I think

Was good to have a nosey around this car on sunday, (drury bp) I am so impressed with this car, amazing work and huge inspiration Well done

I reckon you get stuck into doing the body work