SYKOV6

what r ya weldin it with ivan? if you are a dodgy welder then why not tack it in place then get a p/beater to finish . would be allright to drive with pieces tacked in

nothin wrong with the old 8in parts are easy to come by and not overly expensive. housing with no head would have to be very good and totally complete with brakes, lines ,brackets etc for $500 prolly more like $3-400 is better. i sold a 3.5 head with mini spool to rich with the lexus capri in chch for $180 i think so $450 for the head is gettin up there. give him a pm cause im sure he's gone to a hilux so it could be 4sale. dave

you could get the old one turned down and then fit a sleeve of the correct outside diameter. are u sure the yoke is worn not just the rear gearbox seal? the yokes are made from hard as steel and shouldnt wear unless its from a million miler donor car. if u have had the shaft in and out lots of times during construction of your beast the rear seal is likely to be damaged. it is a $10 part and easy to replace

'Ok, so tried to take a pic of the wheels on this car (WIDENED SIGGY STEELIES MATE) and this stupid promo whore got in the way.. true Story ' haha dont hassle our trudy boe shuda seen her in mini skirt on sat on rod run not much covered. if any pics of me dancin appear on here lee ill be loadin my shotty and lookin for u

the best parts to put in a 'bullet proof engine is A REV LIMITER

and a return line to tank ,a regulater, and relays for pump etc. and in most older cars a pre pump and a surge tank. how do ya think it would go with 2 bolted together on a 4 barrel manifold?

saw this in napier today while out on a school trip with my kids . looks kinda cool

VERY VERY impressed dude it looks fat . whats been done to the motor in the vid it sounds like a stocker. my personal choice i would have kept it more oldschool eg no oversize seats,twin cannons. and def no monster tach. but its your car and its sik well done. if ya dont mind me asking how much does it owe ya? dave

where as 4.1 falcons have the wrong rod/stroke ratio [not sure what it is] you can cam them to fuck, port the head,have 3 carbs and the wont make any more power after about 5000 rpm. they rev harder but dont make anymore power after that. but they respond great to forced induction and nos , go figure.

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would be interesting to know the specs of the boat engines. i have a couple of mates with jet boats 1 has a nissan v8 and the other a chev v6 . they both told me that a jet boat motor needs to have a long flat torque curve and they only want to rev them to 75-80% of red line to keep them reliable so the cam them for torque down low like a towing cam which makes them feel flat as in a car they run out of legs real qik. it wouldnt be too hard to make a sheet metal manifold for the essex. take a look at the pics of my chev that has a high rise single plane manifold with range from 3000 to 8000rpm a slightly lower one wold bring the torque curve down the rev range a bit. youd really need quite alot of head work for a manifold like that to work properly tho. if u just want a spirited cruiser then go for the stocker and open it up for a bit more flow and mod it for 2 webbers

hey nismo a 390 holley is a 4barrel 2 barrels are 320cfm, 350cfm and 500 cfm. the 390s are a really good carb as they have mechanical secondaries but are not double pumpers so good economy and quick throttle responce with foot down. they were orginally designed for small displacment tunnel rammed and multi carbed engines such as 302s and such like. where 2 600s would be way over kill

i did my mk2 just basically rewired it from to firewall plug forward all down 1 side plastic convoluted tubeing covered so no stones hit etc just alternater wires running under inlet manifold only about 2in seen see http://img388.imageshack.us/my.php?image=thebay.jpg

yeah was 3.8 litre v6 chev . i didnt build the engine but with the gear that was in it would have cost abot 10g to build from scratch the heads would have been half of that. i never ran it at the drags but my mate has a high12sec camaro and it could out accelerate that quite easily. if i knew then what i know now i wouldnt have sold it . i would have kept it and repaired the engine and sorted the oiling problem out. it had a hi vol oil pump at anything over 6000rpm it would suck the sump dry[bad] all it needed to fix was replace the pump with a stock volume pump and increase the size of the oil returns in the valley. check out my cardomain links for some pics of the motor out of the car, its the middle one. dave

car was mainly set up for drags but it was 'ok' on the road very choppy below 3 grand started to make power at 4000 then sreamed past 7500 where i had the limiter set. have a look in the off topic forum under youtube vids is a vid of it open headered sounded mean. cam was 600thou lift and 310 duration @ 050 with full head job and open plenum manifold it made 320hp @ 7250 nasty in a 1000kg mk2. here it is

pretty sure mate from work has a gt35/40 on his rota it made 370kw on dyno on 18lbs hes just lunched the motor [fuel pump failure @9000 rpm] and wants to run 9s now so is upgradeing could be for sale u want me to ask?

the bigger the cam you go the less your static comp ratio will be as the increased overlap in the cam timing bleeds comp off. my corty was 10.5 -1 but had a 310 dur cam so static comp was about 8.9-1 there is a formula to work it out but my drug hazed memory is fucked and i cant remember it. was sumthin tho do with both valves being open longer as piston is cumin up not startin to compress the mixture till the piston is farther up the bore as the vaves fully close. some people go too far on static comp with a big cam and then run into massive detonation probs further up the rev range

when u take it out it will shrink and be very difficult to put back in normally only about 3-400 fo new one anyway

dont want to be a downer man ,but i dont know why u are bothering with the ford v6 they are buckets of shit . they are fucken heavy and very primitive in design . they are not proven to be very reliable in stock form let alone modified. that is why there is not alot of other people doing it only die hard capri fans . why not go for a jappa v6 or a chevy they are are a very good engine ,relativly light and make good hp stock and have a huge aftermarket parts available. OR if u want to keep it ford a late model mustang 3.8 v6 cheap imported engines are available turf the injection bolt a 4 barrell manifold on a go from there. ya might even be able to pick one up with a 5 spd behind it. having had a few mates with the old ford v6 ive seen too much good money thrown after bad on these shittas. if u wanted to build on like the factory hotrods it would cost u a small fortune to get only a similar power output to a stock 3.8 or chevy v6. thats my 2c sorry bout that

looks awesome dude there used to be a few of these gettin around in the 90s with chevy and ford v8s in em . would be phat with 2uz and twin turbs

its not bs dude but it doesnt make f all differance its no diff than a two barrall carby on the stocker. when ya cut the top off the stock manifold it becomes an open plenum. when u combine an engine with the correct size carby the intake pulses will easily draw the air\fuel mix to the right port. 3x2 barrel carbs simply position the venturi closer to the port it may add slightly better throttle responce but you would be pretty hard pressed to notice it. imagine a holden or valiant straight 6 with a single 4 barrell manifold thats a long way to the front and rear ports but they still make heaps of power. when u have a big duration camshaft and ported heads with a carb thats too big the intake pulses are weak and the airflow is slow the small airholes and passages in the carb dont pick up the intake pulse thus the throttle responce is shit until you have a few revs on board. with the correct size carb you still have good air flow thru the carb makeing everything work properly. its all about air speed.

mate did said coversion on his manifold worked mint looked almost factory. the worst thing people do is over carb them some drop kicks put a 600 holley on em . its only 3lts even with a big cam ,ported heads headers and a big bore a 390 is HEAPS. i only had a 465 on my chevy v6 and that was making about 320hp a 600 made it run like a dog down low but the 465s smaller venturis speed the airflow up making it way more responsive

there was a triple 32/32 weber manifold available try redline go to a v8 shop buy a holley 1 inch spacer cut the top off your old manifold the weld the holley spacer on then go for a 390d/p holley which is a 4 barrel

yeah lodge auto centre does heaps of cossy stuff for curcuit and targa they are bloody good. ph 06 8788138

if ya set on the busa powerplant then why not get a chassis builder to fab a complete spaceframe and just cut and shut the imp shell onto that just like most hot rods. then u can use proven race style front suspension and mount what eva ya like down the back. why not use a cough honda vtec motor and box set up in the back or mitsi mivec if your a hondah8r . if you could find a good engineer whose willing to do the job for a perky prolly wouldnt cost that much. if ya rebuilt it original stylz how long do you think it would take b4 u got sik of the gutless wunder that dont stop or handle without serious money chucked at it. it's worth a thought dave