Snoozin

Unsure about the properties of both materials, but is one of them more flexible than the other? In that car (1997 Laguna, that's my shot), the radiators and ducting is mounted to a floating "subframe" arrangement hung off little dampers, it also retains the splitter and the undertray. Idea is you run super slammed and it just moves when you strike a ripple strip/curbing on track. Unsure if there is any strength or cost differential between them, but a quick Google suggests the aramid fibre is much less brittle than carbon so it could have a bearing on why those particular components are made out of the stuff?

Essentially, it's identical arrangement in that P10 vs the 98 P11.

Trip to Japan to strip it, pack the parts in a container thru Empire.... job done!

2nd a Beams, but add ITB for extra coolness. Not as good as a Honda K motor, but not as expensive either.

KP61 Hero Contributor-6-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr Still running well, clean sheeted it's first WOF after cert and generally been relatively minimal, but happy motoring. No 13's on it because, I'm lazy. And it drives really nicely on these, but the 13s will find their way back on soon. I've had the paint (that was done in 2007) colour sanded and corrected and it looks ridiculously good. This shot doesn't really shot it, but it's flat, glossy and much more vibrant. All I have to do now is look after it!

5kg Swift springs in the front, I forget the length, no keepers as they are quite a long, soft spring. Fortune Auto offered me a range of insert lengths with varying stroke etc, so I was able to work out where it needed to be to get enough droop, a good ride height and a good amount of bump travel. Bonus for being relatively compliant in a light car. I have used the length to even the ride height, but if I wanted to go lower I can drop the spring platform and still retain captive springs at this stage and not compromise bump travel.

You basically said why it's a bad idea in your reply "if you have a suitable main spring and keeper." Ergo, the platform and vehicle ride height is set via suitable spring. Engineering your own solution is even more of an incentive to get it right, when you order a Fortune Auto setup for example, you have a choice of spring rates and lengths.

Height is set by spring length. When you think about it, platform height is influencing the length of your spring, the most common issues that occur when setting up a strut by adjusting height only using the bottom clevis is having a wheel that bottoms out in the arch before the shock hits its bump stop, as well as often minimal droop. You ideally want a main spring and a tender/keeper to fine tune your ride height and droop. https://mcasuspension.com/spring-seat-adjustment-method/ https://mcasuspension.com/how-to-adjust-ride-height/ MCA explain it more eloquently than I ever could.

Vintage TRD = expensive, no matter what part it is. Old/period aftermarket stuff is reaching obscene prices, even for 90s gear... just catching up to the Euro and USA classic bits I guess.

I was keener than mustard, but asked the seller if they had 6 I could buy at that price for a group deal, and when they responded in the negative, I exclaimed "WELL GOOD DAY TO YOU, SIR," and closed my browser in a huff!

The car was acquired already built and never run in anger, AP4 rely on a whole lot of control/compliant chassis items to meet regulations. So the initial investment and specialist fabrication was already completed on that car, they look like production shells but they're not.

No, it's literally been lifted out of a road car and popped in.

4AG has been consigned to the bin on this car. Now has GR 3-pot in it, although not ready yet.

Project Binky levels of bracketry there, my good man!

So far, this has been going pretty well. Aside from some problems with cracking on the headers, the car has run pretty well. There's a few tune-based things to tidy up but nothing that really affects the drivability. All the Pioneer stereo gear is now functional. I use a Bluetooth cassette adaptor off Aliexpress to enable me to retain total tape functionality and play tunes from Spotify. It works much better than expected. I also went to town on my cert-spec wheels, as I figured it best look pretty good when I do have to take it for a WOF! Results as below. KP61 Night 21-04-16-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr KP61 Night 21-04-37-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr KP61 Night 21-04-44-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr KP61 Night 21-04-49-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr

Those throttles are so cool!

Jump on Amayama - I bet you'll be able to get most bolts, genuine. You probably won't find your chassis number but you'll find a Japanese market model and most of those fasteners will be identical. Way better than bolt shop bolts, with their silly 13mm heads etc.

From the limited information at hand, it looks like it might be a prime example to ruin with some slam and wheels! Still has a radio blanking plate? That's rad.

Fitted up the TE37, finally. The tyres are Lakesea Gredge 07RS semi slicks, a re-branded Zestino that's a 140TW DOT rated semi. They were meant to be Zestino, but the local distro got sent an incorrect batch of 205/45/16 only with the Lakesea branding. Subsequently, these were specialled off at $50 per tyre, which I decided was a no-brainer to get the TE's shod in some rubber. I like the look, although I think I prefer it best on the RG still. DC2R Phone (63)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr DC2R Phone (64)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr The classic Honda driveway exit pose. DC2R Phone (60)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr

I like the idea of a press-fit plug/stub. Thread it, weld in a nipple and be done. You could even machine an o-ring groove in it.

Jeeez man get some sticky tyres on that, put a piece of railway iron in the back for a swaybar and go and 3-wheel like hell around all those lovely roads around your way.

That silver KP Starlet at OS Drags last time, had a sprint car Winters in it.

Yes, good!

Cert achieved! Next step is to make the exhaust a little quieter and then get a wof

Haha, I am ok for center caps, I have original ones for all the sets of wheels I use on the car. I do have a KP62V grille with the deer badge on it though.