GregT
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Everything posted by GregT
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Starter motor going in correct direction ? Does it earth through frame connection or one on the engine cases ?
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Is there a relay in the circuit between switch and solenoid ? Probably shouldn't be but I've seen some odd ways of protecting from high current draw.
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I think you're going to have to take your rearset mounts off the available holes in the frame lower castings. Do they call them the hatchets or something similar ? Plenty of aftermarket folding pegs around - usually sold as pillion pegs Edit - A couple of stray neurons collided and I remembered that in HD language those castings are the tomahawks.
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I'll make a small and pessimistic prediction - I reckon you're going to have to make another rear pipe. It needs to be higher and tucked well in for rearset/leg clearance and kickstart clearance. The one bit you can't change is the kickstart arc - and any fold up footrest has to be hinged well inside the line of pedal travel. Been there myself before. Luckily a pipe isn't hard to do.
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Back in the day I knew three guys with the small Evo's. All of them finished up taking them out to 1200. One of them actually sourced Branch's booklet on tuning the Evo - and gave it to me to do his heads. Still got it somewhere here.
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Looks like I won't. Conflicts with CAMS Southern Classic.
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There's a well known story in the local bike world. BMS in Wgtn landed a set of ultra light rims for a race Ducati but they were the wrong colour powdercoat. So into the bath they went.... And never came out again.
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Don't know about car regs but I've seen a bike frame which was dipped to remove powdercoat - and subsequently broke. Internal acid damage. I've been told at some point in the past that Motorsport NZ won't certify tubular rollcages which have been dip stripped No idea if that is still a current reg.
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i'll probably go along for a look. Go every few years to see who's still alive.
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Side topic but I've ported Yamaha heads - 2,4 and 5 valve. And toyota 2 and 4 valve. Very similar problems suggesting a corporate design policy. Basically up until current product, too big inlets and too small exhausts. Really exacerbated on the 5v's.
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Air shock is probably a Fournales. Very active agent in Aussie back in the day - and not a lot of alternatives.
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FYI I took 15mm off the width of a GS1000 speedo drive for a road bike change to modern rims. You'd be surprised what can be done. Any info turned up about dad's engine mods ?
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And relax. She's decided she doesn't want to hang around ChCh so is going back home and will get it done in Oamaru. Had a listen and i'm picking it's a noisy waterpump - but she'll get the cambelt done at the same time.
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Daughter's Starlet needs cambelt plus probably waterpump. Do we use dealer or can anyone recommend a workshop? I don't have the space or energy to do it myself. Thanks
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Don't want to rain on anyone's parade - but an original or close to original one is highly collectible. Please don't do anything irreversible. Story for context. My old business partner raced big Suzukis back in the day. The year that the NZGP was held on the Sydenham street circuit he was running the same model as you have in F1 and senior Production. On the second row for the F1 GP, got a good start - 3rd into turn 1 (as verified by the photo he had on his wall) Then the gear linkage fell apart leaving him in 2nd gear. Rest of the race in 2nd gear and still finished fourth.
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I'd just put later 17's on it. It should be possible to get a 4.5in rear on without much trouble, a 5.5 is a bit of a squeeze. The 1135 donk is the king of the early GSX's, stock they are very quick. Judging by the pipe, pods and APE sticker your dad has already had a go at it. Any memory or record of what he'd done to it ? Over the years I've built a few of those engines for road and track. Just ask if you need to know anything.
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Just how bad was the head injury ? Don't decide paint while stunned.
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Those things and the similar 500 have a nasty trick. If the kickstart gear seizes on it's shaft, the whole assembly including the kickstart pedal can spin at the speed of the gear in the box. I'm told it can be spectacular - and painful. Moral is to never let the oil level in the box get too low. Good progress. Well done.
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You can sidestep some of the aggro. A fuel pump from a bike - specifically one of the big Hondas or FZR Yamahas on carbs - will have an automatic cutoff which is backpressure sensitive. IE it only pumps when the float chambers need fuel and cuts when the float needles hit the seats. Volume shouldn't be a problem as they're used on sidecar outfits using Methanol.
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The weld recommendation comes from one of the world's leading 2 stroke tuners - not me. He regularly uses mallory metal for balancing and invariably tack welds it in.
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It can also be tig'd in. Spot welds around the edges.
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Is there a damper on the operating arm of the throttle body ? If it's gone west the idle can be all over the place.
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That tip about Holden diffs - PK is Paul Kirk, Very experienced and clued-up guy. Known him for decades. I put a used diff head from a 186 Kingswood in my hot 202 LJ Torana when I blew the original. Went down to the 3.55 - and drag raced it. No probs at all.
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3rd gear crunch....My experience - limited as it is - suggests that the origin of the synchro damage is the OE very long clutch pedal travel. Combined with the Italian ergonomics - seat well back to fit behind the wheel which makes it a stretch to the pedals - complete disengagement of the clutch is an effort. So on quick upshifts it leads to making the synchros work harder than they're happy with. You moved the seat on this one didn't you ? Did it help ?
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Discuss here about Yoeddynz's little Imp project...
GregT replied to yoeddynz's topic in Project Discussion
Freshly rebuilt plain bearing bike engines i use 20/50 straight mineral as the initial break in lube. After the first change use what you prefer. Don't try and reseat the rings on synthetic, it simply won't happen Ring tensions are very low on Honda bike multis in my experience.
