shizzl

what year is it? i think we may have a set on the rack at work..

you referring to the choke butterflies?

totally.. most are bolted to one of the bellhousing bolts. an easy model: get a saddle clamp (exhaust clamp) and put it on the front pipe roughly next to the bellhousing(dont tighten the clamp all the way up yet). take a bit of flat bar 25-40mm wide and 5-8mm thick and however long youll need it. drill a hole in one end big enough for a bellhousing bolt to go through. measure how far away from the bellhousing the saddle clamp is and make a right angle bend so the flat bar sits against the saddle clamp base when its bolted to the bellhousing. then weld the flat bar to the saddle clamp base. i can take some pics of one and put them up tomorrow if you like.. i have 3 hilux's booked in for exhaust jobs tomorrow...most popular for repairs these things but they do usually have good clamps/brackets... lastly tighten the saddle clamp bolts(do this last)... done

your lucky...any real damage will be easily noted we have an evo3 engine at work at the moment,done the exact same thing.. his last motor wasnt so lucky,bent the lot and cracked the block... best not to run them upside down resting on the bonnet ae

mixture then? thank fuck its actually running though man...now you can get somewhere with it

weld the manifold to the head...

grab ya self a welder,( i have the mig set to 3/4 power) zap the centre of the broken stud, keep zapping (spot welding onto the weld)to make the end of the weld come out from the head,(your basically trying to make a new stud out of mig wire ) find a large nut and hold it over the slug of weld with some long nose pliers, then continue pulling the weld out from the head(yes, you will have to aim inside the nut), it will eventually weld to the nut, give the nut a couple of taps with a spanner/hammer or neighbours cat, let it cool down or spray something on it if your impatient like me... then slowly ease the stud out by undoing it, you might have to work it back and forwards a bit like tapping a thread or your mum... you might break a few nuts off but itll come out eventually, just keep putting nuts on and working the bitch.. generally if you arent waving the torch all over the show you wont do any damage to the head regardless if its cast iron or alloy... also works on flange studs... enjoy... could be usefull in tech archives if anyone thinks its relevant.. peace.

the shit we use doesnt set like concrete...it stays semi soft and doesnt blow out.. ill have to get the name of it tomorrow.. ive found nissans are the worst for popping studs, and toyotas blow the gaskets aswell as crack the front pipes... ive learnt a sweet trick to removing broken studs without using a drill and easy outs, so fucking quick and easy i cant believe i never thought of doing it before, although id never had to replace broken head studs before.....

i do on average 2 manifolds jobs each week, sometimes 3.. mainly due to broken studs.. but quite often the lower mount isnt done up, or the studs are loose, or theyv hit something.. and if its none of them its because they dont have a front mount and no flexi.. 99% of all manifold jobs i need to plane the manifolds because they warp.. and depending on the gasket material i use proper industry sealer, not that maniseal shit found at repco...applied in some instances not all...

speechless..... another fine example of awesomeness!!

got a flexi in it? are you using any gasket sealer on the gasket??

i had one on my old stockcar, it was fukn hell rangi, no plates or anything and loud as...

i may have a fj20et,5 speed and link ecu coming up for sale very soon, also with fmic... would be epically epic..

always been a fan of HQs... you could try and find a triple carb manifold and carbs, these go good.. extractors and a 2.5" exhaust, electronic ign if it doesnt have it allready.. ive always thought of getting one to drop a 3.8 v6 into... but the old straight 6's still go good for what they are, and do good skids lose some height in the suspension though..

if youve got it to a running state dont change it untill you try to locate leaks, it may help to get it sorted.... all the best

have you got any "start ya bastard" or brake clean? crc should work too get someone to fire it up and get it to idle, and spray brake clean or some shit around the carby/ manifold. and and change in the idle/revs will indicate your vac leak...

so it now idles but only at full throttle? progress, but not a win yet ae hmmm, accelerator pump? it may have a hole/split in the diaphragm if its that type of pump.. have you had a play with the idle screw?

loose valve adjusters? ive had a car that had a valve adjuster come off, did a similar thing to ours, but it does sound more like timing....was your dizzy tight or undone at all? also check earthing and throttle butterfly operation

qft what is qft? i assumed the engine had work done to it as he said he put it back in..and was at the stage to fire it up... has everything been hooked up correctly?

timing out 180 then? cos if it caught fire at the carb it sounds like a backfire through the intake...which makes me want to say the timing is out 180

this thread is pointless without pics

totally ^^^^

log books? hahaha never heard of that before... i flushed my log book down the shitter once... but yeah, we were talking about "the bug" at work this morning....

gone-in-the-rear.... its like snot....

may have had the wrong muffler put on it..