shizzl

impossible to find a stock manual flywheel, and would have to get a manual crank with it.. pretty sure it was the autos with the 8 bolt cranks... the adaptor appears to bolt to the stock flex plate by the 3 bolts(more the fact that the flex plate bolts to the flywheel i guess just for the use of the ring gear?), then the flywheel must bolt to the crank... i suppose the flex plate shouldnt let go should it....although it is a holden part

what are your thoughts on this flywheel adaptor for holden 3.8 v6's??? do you think itll handle constant revs 4500-6000rpm??? http://www.marks4wd.com/images/products ... 1247-6.JPG http://www.marks4wd.com/images/products ... 1247-7.JPG priced at $395AU

flip the diff

yeah, in the same boat...they wanted $155 + gst for a stockcar rim that could get bent to hell in the first corner.. thats twice the price of most other rims

http://www.thesteelsurgeon.co.nz/index.html

you mean carlos chesnut from the steel surgeon? if you are, he is a god...he makes the meanest parts for stockcars and shit.. what price has your flatmate been quoted? cos i need to get a few extra rims in gay hq pattern 5x120

probably a drill port... full bridge ports are fucking fun to drive..

lick my mums pussy doch dohc soch cock its all the same..

id love to se a mean FE doch with mean turbo in a 323 hatch... itll blow all the rotang a tangs away..

disconnect the battyer in the dead car, and the good car, and use the jumper leads to connect the good battery to the dead car, if it doesnt start you know its something else. trying to jump through a dead battery is like beating a dead horse... it may be fun to start with but gets old pretty quick.

rx3 diffs arent much stronger than an escort diff anyway. escorts are made for anything.....built for mad skids.and sideways gravel bashing.. thats all, not for picking up chicks

yup fail.. have you got a trolley jack handle.?? stick that on it and give it a tap downwards... shouldnt take much to free it up...bloody fwd's and no room

what he said...^^^^^ or pull the motor out, drop the sump, take the head off, pull the pistons out, check the spark plugs, then get a screwdriver and twist the thermostat or hit it with a hammer, if all else fails take it to a garage...

i had a 4age in a mk2 2dr.. the project pages have disappeared from here, was back in 04.. got a blue top motor from the crash fxgt for $200, swapped the shell etc for a monster tach and a intercooler that i sold for $300!!, picked up a k50 box with clutch etc from night parts who also modded my loom, both came to $250 the lot (oh and they modded my intake) used a ke70 driveshaft that i got for $20..had an engineer neighbour to spin up a flange adaptor for the driveshaft to bolt onto the diff head, and the mounts were all done in a day, didnt have to cut the sump or the tunnel... all up it cost me about $500...not bad... but i got a good $$$ offer for the whole set up for a rally car so i sold it and dropped in a pinto with a vf10 turbo and sierra injection....but never finished it

i pulled the fj out today, dropping in a l18...carbies are much easier to fit/get running..

so there has been a change of plans, ive sourced a L18 out of a 720 ute.. gonna drop that in there so i can get it on the rd (re-vin).. then depending how sacky the performance is on the L18 i may even cam it and put either a 45mm sidey or twins on it... want to look at putting shorter struts in the front ( i think r31 is the go) and fit my coilover kit to them. will try and make a pair of nissan coilovers fit the rear,they have a 20mm eye at the bottom and a plate at the top, but ill measure up and see if i can mount them in like the standard shocky, if not ill get the turrets enlarged and maybe need heavier springs for it... the r31 struts should offer better brakes too i hope..the rears ill just leave as drums for now i think.they work just as good as discs.not like its gonna be a track car. so with the fj20et sitting in the corner of the shed feeling sorry for itself for being overweight i will sell it if someone gives me an offer of much $$$, will throw in the link,i/c and all the other goodies that are there for it...i dont see myself using it in the future, more likely itll find a 13b in there first,haha but probably not...

mother fucking picture time bitches!!!! got home from town stuff early, weather was good so i jumped straight into the shed, and pulled out the molar of an engine, box is still in there till tomorrow.. pics of ning springs... id be happy with this height at the front, maybe a little higher but not much, the rear def needs to be higher...or does it??? :drool: its getting the max jenny craig tuckage

ive got a ht18 turbro sitting here if anyone needs one for a similar mission.. thought of putting it in the proceed

totally agree with isnowi... i wouldnt cut more than 1 coil off...its generally only 1-2 coils that make the spring captive. im all for cutting of springs aslong as they remain CAPTIVE and are seated properly. obviously cutting a coil off a spring that only has say 4 winds to it is probably not the best idea cos itll end up on the bumpstops..

its not illegal as long as the spring is seated correctly and remains captive.. i wouldnt recommend it, take them to archers auto springs to get compressed..

sweet,atleast its off you can make a new one

before you smack it, soak it in crc/wd40 or similar...let it sit for a while, then tap the side of the sleeve first then try turning the bolt head, hit the nut on the bolt last... the tubes are known to rust to the bolts...its a fact of life

rd trips are the shiz...ive bought an econovan and a b2000 both from the dirty waikato and drove them down to chch and the west coast, both no wof/reg.. im going to our local wrecker next week,ill keep an eye out for bumpers for you

try and find out if a ef or similar sump will fit the ba block...wouldnt be surprised if they do as all the other 4l bolt on to each other.. thatl give you a bit more room to drop it down..

xr6 turbo motor....skids will be mean....