hutchwilco

For anyone who cares, I've figured out that I needed to actually measure the gearbox input shaft diameter. Should have checked it first thing - Stupid. Apparently Mazda changed the input and output shafts willy nilly with no rhyme or reason. The noise was the large dia clutch plate splines spinning on the too small dia gbox input shaft. not nice, but no damage done. Solution has been to replace the clutch plate with one with a smaller diameter hole.

No noise clutch out, but clutching in causes a sound of something spinning down (or two things coming together to match speed) then a constant noise at a lower rev. This is in neutral. If I change into a gear, as I let out the clutch there is some minor drive to the wheels but mostly awful extension of the clutching noise. It has been suggested to me that a minor (5-10mm) difference in the input side of the gearbox shaft (which I observed compared to the removed gbox), would mean the TO bearing does not sit on the clutch fingers, so the sound I'm hearing is the bearing contacting and spinning on the fingers (perhaps not in perfect alignment either... ie slightly off axis ).

Hey guys, hoping someone has some suggestions: Recently had to replace my 88 Econovan maxi box since a friend mashed something up and I lost 1st and 5th. The box I put in was second hand, slightly different but I was assured it would bolt right up by the wrecker. (I confirmed the spline count was the same). I installed the replacement box, no issues bolting it up, but I got a loud whirring noise when I engaged the clutch. It sounds like something (presume the throwout bearing on the clutch fingers) spinning down to a stable speed. If I disengage the clutch, as I release I hear a chirp, (sounds like the TO bearing coming off the fingers) I suspected the throwout bearing obviously, so removed the box, and swapped back in the OLD TO bearing (which was in much better condition). I also bled the hydraulic clutch as I suspect that was not throwing as far as it should. Still not dice - the sound is not as bad but still there. When I had the box out, I checked the differences between old and replacement, and the TO yoke and bearing all seem the same. The gearbox input shaft seems very similar but I did notice about 5 or 10 mm difference in the distance of end of the shaft to the box mating face (the replacement box is a tad shorter). Does any of this add up to anyone?

SOLVED Awesome, thanks k-trips it was the condensor - well, the points were shot, so I replaced them, but the problem almost got worse - so replaced the condensor and boom, runs like a dream. Incidentally, repco had the condensor in stock, but I ended up going to Butler Auto Mart on Stanmore Rd Richmond (awesome cos they stay open till 8 most nights) and had it cheaper - $13. Not bad. Cheers

Cheers. Not the answers I wanted to hear but there you go. I checked the coil, it's ok. The points, however were not - definitely pitted and built-up on opposite sides. Think I go for a new set and see where that leaves me. I'm pretty certain it's not a "soft" fuel problem, given the instant on/off nature of the missing and the fact that fuel gets thru the cylinders to then ignite in the exhaust. Also, the choke has no effect if I pull it on, telling me its not a lack of fuel or water in the fuel.

Cheers, Not sure that it's stale fuel - only does it once warmed up, and it occurs at a very specific point in the throttle/clutch sequence. I'm beginning to suspect the ignition coil, but condensor may also be a factor. cheers

So I'm hoping someone can offer some advice: I got a1800 F8 in my 88 Econovan. Its been sitting for a year. Got her goin with a new battery the other day, took her out around town for a warrant etc. After it had warmed up, it started missing right when I first put the gas on, in each gear, about where the load is the highest (just before the clutch is fully engaged). Once past that it would generally run fine cruising. I could avoid the missing/stalling by riding the clutch out and smoothing out the instantaneous load on the engine - for a while. Then she backfired a few spectacular times - enough to make most of a city block duck for cover. I put in new plugs. Still does it. Check all the leads, all between 4&6 MOhms Drained off the bottom of the fuel, to see if there was water - nope. Haven't looked at the carb as its a bitch to get to under the drivers seat. I'm pretty convinced it's ignition related, since it's such a sharply defined miss. Any advice? Could this be something to do with the ign coil failing?

ha, luke to rescue again eh? Yeah that'd be great if you can find them. I'll get this puller back to you this week too. Unfortunately it didn't work, but ended up making my own with a bit of steel and a borrowed tap. Worked a treat and meant I didn't have to removed the radiator. I'll post pictures (of a piece of flat steel with 3 holes in it...) sometime if anyone cares. As for buying them cheers craig_b but I'd rather borrow some if they're sitting around somewhere. $40 saved is $40 more down on the bloody mortgage!

Need to do a quick rear shock replacement, and need spring compressors - anyone willing to lend out? Live in Linwood, work in Wigram so can usually swing by anywhere there or in between most days. Cheers, Sam Edit: in case it's not obvious I'm talking about Christchurch area

Yeah thanks, I've stupidly had to pull it twice, having left the damn belt retaining plate off the first time. Definitely no chance of pulling it off by hand, especially at the awkward access angle. I'm just loathe to hire one AGAIN, if I have to adjust the tension.

Have a feeling my recent timing belt change might have ended up a tad too tight, so I might need a puller to get to the tensioner. Anyone got a harmonic balancer puller they would mind lending out for a week or two? Cheers

awesome the speedo cable suggestion is one I never would have thought of - thanks all

I've just replaced the CV joints in my 88 N13 Pulsar and now want to refill the manual trans oil, but have found the filler plug is well and truly stuck - it's an inset 3/8" plug and I've bent the 3/8" part of two bars, plus torqued the 3/8" piece completely off my 1/2" to 3/8" adapter. I've tried CRC, and heating it up with a gas torch, as well as giving it a good tap with a hammer. (it's flush with the housing though so not too easy) It's at the front of the engine about level with the bottom of the radiator so there's only about 15cm clearance - not enough for an impact driver (I don't even have one anyway) I'm at my wits end and need to move this car because the access road to the property is being closed permanently soon. Does anyone have any advice? I wonder if I should try to drill it out and find a replacement plug? Appreciate any words of advice!

Hey mate I have pulled the sucker off the drive axle and got spline counts of 25 outer (hub side) and 22 inner (driveaxle side). Reckon you could get a match with those details? the car's non-ABS, N13 GA15E manual trans if that helps. Otherwise I'll run the joint into you one day - which BnT are you at? Much appreciated!

thanks too, I got me a 32mm piece from the Tool box on Jackson St. Mint.