JustHarry

Looks like it's going to lapse in a month..... @Mattt @BlownCorona @Callum Radford

Like putting tape over a check engine light. Comprehensively mended

If you have rubbed through You will definitely need to put base coat down and do a blend so you dont color the whole panel out again and waste paint. Have you done blends? The danger is the metallics are difficult to blend without leaving a lighter "ring" around the area where you have sprayed base coat.

Proved the surface is keyed up well. Good red scotch brite does this fine. Polyester filler sticks to primer/epoxy with no issues. I dont know whi would tell you otherwise. As Spencer said newtech is a go to for replacing lead. Its strong and will not crack, and can be built up to fill factory joins with often one application The reason there is lead in the roof to 1/4 panel seam is because in the 70s polyester filler did no exist. And lead was the industry standard at the time. If your body is fleeting enough to crack filler. The paint will crack regardless.

Epoxy filler is a marine product?....for boats.....

Do you mean a high build primer? Not really sure what you mean buy an epoxy filler?

Bog? http://www.raj.co.nz/product-group/1396-multi-1-0-car-body-filler/category/70-body-fillers We use this one at work. Sands rely nice. And isn't super runny so when you mix is it doesnt make a mess and go everywhere

The fenix alloy core radiators with plastic tanks are one to steer clear from. I had one in my ae81 actually suck the bottom edged of the tank away from the sealing edge of the core when it cooled down. A1 took it apart to diagnose the issue and apparently there wasnt a lip for the tank to sit against? Either way I got a refund.

@Spenceris correct maguires 105 is cutting . Use this to cut the 1500/2000 scratches out. Take a while to cut 1500 scratches out. There is a balance of having enough compound to keep it cutting and not go dry and to much and splattering it all over everything around you. A small spray bottle of water is handy to just lightly spray on the buff pad first and on the panel. Keeps everything lice and moist. Then 205 if the finishing polish. Takes way less time and only a few passes to polish up. Use a different buff pad for this otherwise there is no point because there will be cutting compound embedded in the buff pad Rotary bluffs are good but dangerous. Easy to burn through edges. I did it plenty when I was learning.

Maguire's 201? I think is the cutting And yeah 205 is the polish finish Decent product we use then at work. 2000 grit will he fine to machine buff out just take your time and dont burn through

@fletch We buy electric fuel pumps from pan Pacific here in chch . Trade only so.... 80$ ish and thyre quiet as fuck and so far we haven't had any issues with them yet @- i5oogt -s green Cedric has on in it

Looks like a sweet project. Harry didnt sting ya to bad ? I work with dyl orpwood, harrys youngest and have bought bits from them in the past. Orpwoods tend to command top dollar on vehicles. But the do seem to find the gems hidden away

Drift cars prob go slow enough there isnt a high pressure area at the base of the screen. At the low speed they realistically operate at its unlik6to be an issue. At "100kms" cruising speed you dont want air being pushed into the engine bay and airflow through the rad being slowed. AnD overheating

Mainly a top speed racing thing that's tilted down to street cars like most stuff has. At mega speed a normal scoop is a massive drag. A reverse cowl like that is aerodynamic and gives good airflow to the engine via the high pressure area at the base of the screen

Those are for air intake purposes. Like a scoop but much cooler . And for functio are plumbed into the airclearr the way a normal scoop is

A workmate has a supercharged fist 128 running toyota 4agze ecu wiring and sensors. Makes sense if you can find a good factory system on an engine of close size and power.

If it's too high take the springs back to were you got them done and argue they been curved too far?

As it sits in the photo Is that the height you want it? Or is it still to high

Did you have them reset for more lift? Can you not get them to pop round to the correct position Looks like the springs are to short now. Longer springs with less curve would achieve the same result

Think my 20 mm air one was 250 and the 10mm was 180

I find Roloc Sanders are also a lot better for finishing and getting that sweet "ground" finish the pros leave.......

The flex-o-vite belts from bunnings are also pretty bad. They tend to break at the seam long before thyre worn out of grit

I know they're spendy but 3m belts last like 10000000 times longer than the cheapies so are worth it

Air tools ftw....if you have a compressor to run them. For work I've got a 3m 10mm belt Sander and a 20mm jobby from r a Johnson. Think its car tool or some brand like that. Both get used almost daily. Both are decent tools. Important to oil everyday and they last really well. Air tools are always less bulky. Edit. I have the big one. We also have the 10mm one as a workshop tool. They get abused pretty hard and they last a couple years http://www.raj.co.nz/product-group/1110-belt-sander-10-x-328mm/category/308-sanders http://www.raj.co.nz/product-group/1111-belt-sander-20-x-520mm/category/308-sanders

Wouldn't putting a vent in the back of the bonnet actually push air into the engine bay? Since there is a high pressure area in front of the screen. That's why even when you heater fan isn't going, at speed, air still comes out if the vents