johnny.race

Yeah, its common in Courier/Mazda diffs. The end of the axle butts up to the block and the gap/slack (I never understood how it all worked) was sorted out using shims. A cunt of an idea if you want to narrow one of them. The courier is every bit as nuggety as a Hilux but its got this cunt axle preload setup going on which makes them not as popular for narrowing. .

The woman complained about my propensity for leaving my work clothes either; on a couch or hanging over a door. I asked if it would ok if i screwed some hooks into the wall and she said nuh. So I got into my scrap pile of treasures, pulled out my 50's era Arc Welder and made this. Farkin Cool! Gave it to my son (A sandblaster) who blasted and blacked it for me. Shoulda made one years ago. I asked if she wanted one for her shit also, lol! She said nuh.

Yep, ta. I got a few of those diffs. I checked today and a couple of them are 4.1:1 LSD's. The rest are 4.1:1 opens and there might be a 4.4:1 open in there too. Anyway $400 each for the LSD's and $200 each for the open ones. They will all be in excellent nic. When I pillage one of these trucks - I only pillage the good looking ones. Have not got any other parts for these trucks. Was going to offer these in narrowed form but they have a cunt hub end on them if you are in the 'narrowing ya bum business' Not collecting anymore of these diffs either. Will sell 1 x LSD plus 1 x Open for $475 for both. If you only want one - then prices as above. You need to organize uplift. will be on TM when i get around to it. Cheers.

Is that head you are after ... is it 30 Spline or something else?

A rattle gun and take your time. Do it in little bursts. It actually takes a fare bit to start collapsing the spacer. But once it does start then you need to ease up. I've used a in/lb torque wrench to set pinion bearing preload but after you have done a couple - you can do it by feel. I have found the factory spec for setting pinion bearing preload on a G Series diff to be a little on the light side if anything. I go for a bit more than factory spec. Ya don't get any whine or anything ... it might wear the bearing a minute bit more or something. But have you ever turned a properly set up diff from Strange or Moser or anyone? Even got your paws on one done by an experienced technician in a specialist differential shop. They have some serious drag on them. Its the same deal with 9 Inches too ... rattle gun and take your time.

Jesus Sluggy, I love these sorts of cars you are building ... overpowered, sparse interior and a WOF. Fuck yeah!

These sorts of cars should run big motors

Took possession of my new donk the other weekend. Acquired this as part of the deal I did on the Hemi engine. It was on TM under Listing #: 1095158136 This will work way better for me than the other motor ... simpler, cheaper and should not break my ching ching gearbox. Bring back the old days I say ... 4BBL's, 4 speeds and 4.11 geared arse ends.

Hey, thanks for this. Question ... when you say (because i have no idea) 4 pot Nissan caliper - what model of Nissan do I need to be looking under or asking about?

I am basically wondering what my brake upgrade options are for a YN87 Hilux. I am going to be running 15" rims and the extra weight of an iron block 8 cylinder engine. These chassis's come out with small vented disc's on the front in standard form, but fark - they look a little small. I have never mucked around with brake upgrades in the past but this car is headed towards obtaining a cert and i want it to be reasonably safe. Does anyone know if the later model (they look like they are using bigger rotors/calipers) ones fit onto the earlier models? Who's fucked around with the frontend's on these Hilux trucks? Ta.

Nominal mate, thanks for the info awhile back re schedule line pipe and threaded rod. I pulled out the bits and pieces I have been collecting today and had a go running a tap up up the pipe. Did one and it turned out ok. Ya can't do it under power eh unless you are friggin coordinated, lol! This was my experience anyway. 1" UNF is big stuff eh? I have to make a jig up that will hold everything in alignment so i get consistent results with everything. There is a pic above of my pig and a motor. I sold it this week. (the motor not my pig) As part of the deal I take possession of a 500ci RB bracket engine. Will suit this car wayyy better for my intended use. Things are moving again! Churr.

Ahh - finally! 8 or more weeks ago I ordered some axles. Took the long way to get them to NZ by using surface freight instead of air. Worked out cheaper this way for me. They still cost me close to $600 kiwi (each) when all was said and done. They are beauties though. Currie 1541H 35 Spline Big Bearing. I ordered special HD retainers to allow me to run a fabricated disc brake system. I have chosen to run this size of stuff due to owning a couple of Strange Nodular Iron race heads left over from previous times. I was going to sell them then thought wtf - run them. I work with Hilux axles most weeks. This is the difference between the two. I considered making my own but the challenge was finding a suitable core. Its hard trying to locate a shaft big enuff to take 35 Splines that is not attached to a big fuck off truck hub at the other end. The problem with this is that by the time you turn it down to a car size you are in the soft portion of the axle - so ya fucked. Anyway ... progress.

Gomaxgo had the right suggestion - leakdown. Its going somewhere and its cost you a fair little bit both in time and dosh chasing it down so far. While not a leak down test, a cheap stethoscope and a fabricated adapter made from a sparkplug that will allow you to put a 100psi into the pot will go a long way towards giving you some insight as to whats going on. Its there is a hole, gap or a crack, you'll know about it. Get busy with the listening device in the confines of a quiet shed and you'll track it down. Cost - a little bit of time and next to no dosh.

Gaz, get this sorted bro? Lol!! But did ya? I am a nosey prick who does diffs.

Ta man. This is the sort of executive summary I was after. Cheers.

And while i am on it ... whats the general rule of thumb for the late 70's - early 80's RWD Toyota's in terms of wheel PCD. Were they all the same as a general rule or were there abnormalities within the species (lol) also. I know there are big arsed lists available but i am after a general rule of thumb. Cheers.

I am not up to play with the wheelstud pattern (patterns?) used on the rx7 series of Mazda motor cars. What are they, was there more than one pattern employed and what do dudes do in terms of keeping them the standard PCD. I mean does the majority change them for another pattern ... keep them - what? Big question i know but I have never owned one and none of my mates own these sorta cars. I am talking about the early ones. the rx2, 3 and 4 sorta ones. Ta for any info.

How wide are the diffs in those things?

Cleaning the shed floor during her apprenticeship

Shedrat Engine plate construction RB Chrysler/A833 in Hilux chassis Front sparkplug behind front axle CL Fabricated rear torsion mount and crossmember Diff works Co owner and assistant

I reckon your coil is not tight enuff and your are not making enuff heat. And that the majority of heat you are making is not spending any time being focused on the pipe like you want it to - but escaping up your chimney. You've got some shit kinking going on on that pipe of yours eh? This is what was happening to me when i was trying to make a tighter coil by hand.

Yeah I have. I got to a length of just over 3.5m of 20mm in a coil. And it did not want to work like it had when I had just under 2m of it coiled. A couple of things though ... my coiling ability was haphazard and shit. Some of it was alright but there were a couple or 3 kinks that i could not be fucked trying to work out. I had started trying to fix the first one when it occurred but it work hardened (by the looks of what happened) the copper and it fractured and cracked. I ended up cutting this piece out and carried on. It happened another couple or three times by the time i got to 3.5m. So there is this factor. Another thing was that (if you know anything about Waste Oil Heaters then you will know what I am on about. Me? I am a fucking expert on them) because i was in the experimental phase, I was not buttoning up the top each time due to the couldn't be fucked factor. i added some more copper to the coil so my draw was less than adequate due to all of the leaks i am guessing.But all this said ... check out the pics below. I am going to try this setup and probably do a decent job sealing it all up. Should work a beauty. 1.7m of 25mm copper pipe. Intend to 'shape' the heat flow so it absolutely murders the pipe but hopefully still keep its blowtorch like velocity up. We will see.

This is what i reckon too - go for bigger pipe. I have been experimenting with my waste oil burner using 20mm copper pipe. What an absolute cunt to try and coil at a smallish diameter though, lol. Made even worse by my propensity to be joining short bits together (expanded end/silphos) to get some length using scrap offcuts. But this is what I discovered ... there must be a point where the weight of the water (due to volume) is great enuff to prevent thermo siphoning to occur to any great degree, thus necessitating less volume (shorter length of pipe in the coil) or a pump. Another thing I have noticed is that most (all) of the wetbacks I have pulled from out of decommissioned fireboxes have been made from short lengths of large diameter copper pipe. They'd be at a guess around the 25mm OD size and say between 1 - 1.5m long. Just saying what i have seen and have tried. Good luck.

Mate, if this question is for me then I can respline 9 Inch, Hilux and BW78 axles - this is all. And even then I only offer to respline when there is meat there that allows a new spline to be cut. I don't offer to build up a shaft using low hyd rods or similar in order to get a certain length. So pretty limited in one respect but good to know for the users of these 'most popular differentials' I can also narrow diff housings (again 9 Inch, Hilux, BW78) and oddly enuff Ford Courier/Mazda1600 housings. I use jigs that run true, my work is decent and I have usually a way quicker turn around on stuff than you will get from an engineering workshop in town. And why is the print about using a Lux diff in small print, lol ... are you a dyed in the wool Hotrodder that has been brought up on nothing but Ford diffs? Haha! Let you in on a little secret ... factory 9 Inch axles have the consistency of cheese a lot of times. Jap iron from the 90's leaves yank iron from the 60's in the dust. The diff heads are a different story though..

Mate, I brought a couple of HSS cutters from off TM. I had familiarized myself with Diametrical Pitch's ummmm lingo and stuff and read that DP24 was the DP used by most (all) of the OEM's who's axles I sought to cut new splines into. I learned my first lesson about HSS vs Induction hardened hard shit. You mentioned this above, lol! Where the fuck were you sentra when I was cutting my teeth into this new venture? So after finding out how much the tool resharpening pricks wanted to redo my cutters - it was onto the net to see what others were doing who did resplining on a more regular basis. I saw a commercially available indexable one that was cost prohibitive to me but sowed the seed to make me my own. I think I cut this one out of some 12mm plate or something. It might be 10 - dunno. Turned up a collar thingy and pressed/welded them together. Trued it up in the lathe and beveled the edges to 90 degree's included. I drew it up in TurboCAD (don't laugh - I love it and I am self taught to do cool 2D shit) and cut it out on the table. Had to do all of this twice because I was not as good as I thought i was. Fucked it up the first time but the second time round I stopped at the point i fucked it up and paid a machine shop to complete it. They indexed the tungsten cutter pockets/seats and cut the internal keyway in the collar. They got 3 of the cutters spot on but one of them stands a thou or 2 proud of the others. I have marked this one and use it to touch off. Judicious use of DTI and adherence to my own established procedures has seen me do quite a few axles for cunts. I have a biggish (for home use) old Horizontal Mill dedicated/setup to do just axles. They are worth nothing more than scrap value in today's market thanks to CNC. I fucking love them, the big old grunters, lol. That's my story bro.. My name is axle ... Bigblockpoweredstickcarsthatdontshine