johnny.race

More recycling. Got sick of the short comings of my parts washer and set about doing something about it. Didn't like the fact it was not on wheels, that it flexed around due to being mounted on flimsy sheet metal legs, used a shit power plastic pump, had next to no filtration and the expensive cleaning solvent evaporated out of the tub. This cost near nothing to build - just time. Woolworths castors, Nissan petrol tank complete with submersible FI pump, V8 Rover sump, old parts washer tub and, miscellaneous radiator hoses, clips, air cleaners and lengths of steel. I did purchase a new length of angle iron though. Everything bar the new length of angle came from the yard being either shredder or light gauge. New (larger) drain hole cut into tub. Inside the Rover sump is a strainer and a couple of air cleaner elements. The strainer catchers anything big with the air cleaners providing a massive increase in filter area/capacity. The beauty about air cleaners is that they are readily available for nix plus you can see when they are clogged - not a guess like when using an oil filter in the system. Plus they (the oil filter) has an on going cost. The solvent then gravity feeds through radiator piping back to the petrol tank filler. I have got it up and running in jury rig fashion. My intention is to wait until a battery charger turns up at the yard and use that to power the thing. Add some things like brushes etc and call it done. The thing is sturdy, mobile and completely serviceable plus, the solvent will not appreciably evaporate from the tank much.. I have never mucked around with FI petrol pumps before and thought I'd need to utilize the return line with a tap to control the solvent flow. This proved not to be the case. It flows alright but if anything - I might look around for a bigger capacity pump out of something. Anyway - more DIY cool shit in the shed.

Yeah, but not glass I think. Ideally its needs to be glass but typically its going to be perspex or the cheapest glass substitute I can find. Maybe the next step I need to learn is DIY glass cutting, and learning about different types of glass and shit.

There is actually more work in doing this sorta stuff than meets the eye. A side or coffee table made from scrap. Yeah, there is some weight in it, lol.

We used to use Mobile Delvac 1310 in the CAT side of the fleet for Hydraulic. Used Mobile Delvac 1330 for the CAT engines. Didn't matter if it was a high drive 8N or a little D6, they were all the same. When we were operating out in the boonies sometimes (like real fucking boonies say island only accessible by sea-craft and we were only there for a day or two so brought fuck all) and we had had something happen to a hydraulic system that caused it to near empty - if we had used up all of our spare fluid and still needed more ... we'd make it up by mixing 1330 engine oil with diesel. Mobil Delvac 1310 Hydraulic oil has a distinctive smell that only it has. If you've operated big CAT gear, you'd know what i am talking about. I swear to god that once you mixed diesel with the engine oil - you ended up with something that looked like and smelt like Mobil Delvac 1310 Hydraulic fluid. Worked for us - never forgot it. But personally ... why fuck around given the piddly amount you are after - don't take risks with lifting shit bro. Da fuck is $18 compared to the chance of something failing in the future and causing damage. Better places to cheap out in with no risk. Just sayin ... Cheers.

Notice the Thunder Park theme going on with wine bottle tops in the table base ... 8 cyl engine block, white top for pre stage, one amber and one green (Pro Tree) and red at the bottom for when your deep stage goes wrong, Churr!

Saw this Steampunk genre drawing and made a real one.

did you get that top arm apart?

When you should be trying to earn an income or advancing progress on your hotrod ... your mind wanders and this shit happens, lol! More recycling/re-purposing. I fucking love it! Of late, I have dragged my toosh to a couple of art craft show/market thingies and had a look round. Attended a Steampunk thing too. Decided I had enuff dirt under my fingernails, the gear and resources to have a go at doing it myself. Free heat from scrap mixed with waste oil. I love living the life of a fucking shedrat.

Bit late but yeah, that is a BW78 from out of a Falcon. It will have come out of either a wagon or a ute judging by its rear cover. The sedans had a different setup. You might be lucky and its got the 3.27:1 Ring and Pinion in it. Its not an AU because its running the early style bolt setup that holds the brake backing plate on to the housing. It will be 28 Spline and would have come out of something from the early to mid 90's at a guess. Narrowed a fair few of them, they are an ok diff.

I don't know fuck all about L200 diffs but have access to them at times. Can the 9" type and the 8" type be told apart from the axle spline count? Do they have a different number of splines each? I have seen a Mitz V6 axle (I think it was) that was 31 spline. And i am sure i have seen 28 spline axles from an L200 (but not sure)

I have a few Ford Courier/Mazda Pickup differential heads. I don't know anything about these sorts of diffs apart from i have sold the odd head to OS'rs and Stockcar pilot on occasion. In the mix are a couple of LSD's. The LSD's are the first 2 from the left. The last one is an open one (for comparison) The next pics are of the LSD unit on the left The next pic shows the clutch pack in the head which is sitting in the center in the first pic. Question ... all of these heads are of the 30 spline type. They came out of Couriers and Mazda MPV (?) etc. They all interchange as far as I am aware. Whats the go on the two differing types of LSD? Is one better than the other? Does anyone know about this stuff? Cheers.

More practical application of scrap in the shed. Sick of chasing diff heads across the table when torquing down the cap screws? Do more than a few heads at times? Get one of these. Bolted to the deck with nothing going nowhere. Head able to be rotated 360 degrees for spanner application anywhere you might want to try some. Have multiple jig thingie/head holders to suit the differing heads i muck with. Looks Steampunky/Shedratty cool. Makes me dosh. Put together with the same loving care and dirty arsed 50's era stick welder all the heavy iron projects get around here. Churr.

Yeah, its common in Courier/Mazda diffs. The end of the axle butts up to the block and the gap/slack (I never understood how it all worked) was sorted out using shims. A cunt of an idea if you want to narrow one of them. The courier is every bit as nuggety as a Hilux but its got this cunt axle preload setup going on which makes them not as popular for narrowing. .

The woman complained about my propensity for leaving my work clothes either; on a couch or hanging over a door. I asked if it would ok if i screwed some hooks into the wall and she said nuh. So I got into my scrap pile of treasures, pulled out my 50's era Arc Welder and made this. Farkin Cool! Gave it to my son (A sandblaster) who blasted and blacked it for me. Shoulda made one years ago. I asked if she wanted one for her shit also, lol! She said nuh.

Yep, ta. I got a few of those diffs. I checked today and a couple of them are 4.1:1 LSD's. The rest are 4.1:1 opens and there might be a 4.4:1 open in there too. Anyway $400 each for the LSD's and $200 each for the open ones. They will all be in excellent nic. When I pillage one of these trucks - I only pillage the good looking ones. Have not got any other parts for these trucks. Was going to offer these in narrowed form but they have a cunt hub end on them if you are in the 'narrowing ya bum business' Not collecting anymore of these diffs either. Will sell 1 x LSD plus 1 x Open for $475 for both. If you only want one - then prices as above. You need to organize uplift. will be on TM when i get around to it. Cheers.

Is that head you are after ... is it 30 Spline or something else?

A rattle gun and take your time. Do it in little bursts. It actually takes a fare bit to start collapsing the spacer. But once it does start then you need to ease up. I've used a in/lb torque wrench to set pinion bearing preload but after you have done a couple - you can do it by feel. I have found the factory spec for setting pinion bearing preload on a G Series diff to be a little on the light side if anything. I go for a bit more than factory spec. Ya don't get any whine or anything ... it might wear the bearing a minute bit more or something. But have you ever turned a properly set up diff from Strange or Moser or anyone? Even got your paws on one done by an experienced technician in a specialist differential shop. They have some serious drag on them. Its the same deal with 9 Inches too ... rattle gun and take your time.

Jesus Sluggy, I love these sorts of cars you are building ... overpowered, sparse interior and a WOF. Fuck yeah!

These sorts of cars should run big motors

Took possession of my new donk the other weekend. Acquired this as part of the deal I did on the Hemi engine. It was on TM under Listing #: 1095158136 This will work way better for me than the other motor ... simpler, cheaper and should not break my ching ching gearbox. Bring back the old days I say ... 4BBL's, 4 speeds and 4.11 geared arse ends.

Hey, thanks for this. Question ... when you say (because i have no idea) 4 pot Nissan caliper - what model of Nissan do I need to be looking under or asking about?

I am basically wondering what my brake upgrade options are for a YN87 Hilux. I am going to be running 15" rims and the extra weight of an iron block 8 cylinder engine. These chassis's come out with small vented disc's on the front in standard form, but fark - they look a little small. I have never mucked around with brake upgrades in the past but this car is headed towards obtaining a cert and i want it to be reasonably safe. Does anyone know if the later model (they look like they are using bigger rotors/calipers) ones fit onto the earlier models? Who's fucked around with the frontend's on these Hilux trucks? Ta.

Nominal mate, thanks for the info awhile back re schedule line pipe and threaded rod. I pulled out the bits and pieces I have been collecting today and had a go running a tap up up the pipe. Did one and it turned out ok. Ya can't do it under power eh unless you are friggin coordinated, lol! This was my experience anyway. 1" UNF is big stuff eh? I have to make a jig up that will hold everything in alignment so i get consistent results with everything. There is a pic above of my pig and a motor. I sold it this week. (the motor not my pig) As part of the deal I take possession of a 500ci RB bracket engine. Will suit this car wayyy better for my intended use. Things are moving again! Churr.

Ahh - finally! 8 or more weeks ago I ordered some axles. Took the long way to get them to NZ by using surface freight instead of air. Worked out cheaper this way for me. They still cost me close to $600 kiwi (each) when all was said and done. They are beauties though. Currie 1541H 35 Spline Big Bearing. I ordered special HD retainers to allow me to run a fabricated disc brake system. I have chosen to run this size of stuff due to owning a couple of Strange Nodular Iron race heads left over from previous times. I was going to sell them then thought wtf - run them. I work with Hilux axles most weeks. This is the difference between the two. I considered making my own but the challenge was finding a suitable core. Its hard trying to locate a shaft big enuff to take 35 Splines that is not attached to a big fuck off truck hub at the other end. The problem with this is that by the time you turn it down to a car size you are in the soft portion of the axle - so ya fucked. Anyway ... progress.

Gomaxgo had the right suggestion - leakdown. Its going somewhere and its cost you a fair little bit both in time and dosh chasing it down so far. While not a leak down test, a cheap stethoscope and a fabricated adapter made from a sparkplug that will allow you to put a 100psi into the pot will go a long way towards giving you some insight as to whats going on. Its there is a hole, gap or a crack, you'll know about it. Get busy with the listening device in the confines of a quiet shed and you'll track it down. Cost - a little bit of time and next to no dosh.