Kiwibirdman

Here it is on the trailer leaving one home. This was Monday early afternoon. Clear all morning, got the petrol station next to Hirepool to fill up and it started pissing down. Rain stopped once the car was on the trailer. Here we are at the other end off loading. See my wife's response to it will be finished for the beach hop. And it's finally home, 12 years after purchase.

What are the specs of the cam you are using? I built a 308 last century that had a 210@050 cam that was really good in a street motor. The ute it was in ran mid 14's down the quarter and would happily pull a 21 foot power boat up the ram at 1600 revs. For your Statesman something similar would be ideal, the original cams were really mild, especially when they got worn out.

After the previous post I got to thinking about how many different Holdens have been donating parts Body EJ Holden Right rear door EH Holden Front suspention LH Torana Steering column LC Torana Diff HJ-HX ute Wheels and front calipers HZ Holden Fuel tank VS Commodore Master cylinder VX Commodore Wiper motor VP Commodore Front Rotors HQ Holden Engine and Transmission VT Commodore Not a bad effort and no Ford parts.

I went AWOL from work on thursday last week and took a trip out to Zebra Autoparts. A VX Commodore gave up its brake booster, master cylinder and brake pedal, a VS teh wiring to the fuel pump and a VP its wiper motor, all for a bargain $77 On the way home I swung by A1 exhausts where the car has been for the the last few months to be told that Dave is shutting up shop and the car has to be taken away by Wednesday. I guess this means that now the body comes to the motor, not the other way round. I does mean that I can spend more time at home doing stuff on the weekends. Biggest down side is running fuel lines, brake lines and other stuff under the car is a shit load harder being on the ground not on a hoist.

I have always thought an LS powered WB would be an awesome idea. Would be a fairly easy conversion with more power and way better economy. Hardest part is finding a reasonable car to start with.....

The best advise I ever got was when getting a car painted strip it of everything you can. 2 reasons, first is nothing looks more shit house than paint that goes over the edge of trim, door handles, rubbers..... where it has been masked, the second is you save a fortune in not paying someone to mask around all the bits.

Managed to spend some time working on the car this week. The cross member that goes under the trans tunnel now has the centre bit missing. I've figured out where the steering will go to connect to the column. I ordered new universals from Borgesen and waiting for them to turn up. Lots of people saying the reproduction steering unis are rubbish. the Borgesen ones will also be a heap cheaper. Engine should go in this week. I'm hoping that some off the shelf pacemaker headers, either torana or early commodore will fit. Forgot to take photos

All good. I hate it when people jump in and do stuff that is unnecessary and costs time and money for no good reason..........especially when its me.

My brother in law got given one of these which he used when we went camping. It was loud enough to annoy the fuck out of me because of the shit girly music he plays. More than enough volume to drown out a half decent V8. Should be perfect for the EJ when its finished.

Before you get too carried away with skimming check the run out with a dial gauge to make sure that is the problem.

Thanks Bryan Also the Holden is 300 kgs lighter and has seats for 6 people not 5.

That makes sense. Thanks Clint

Is there anyone out there who has an EJ/EH Wagon with certified rear lap belts. I'm trying to figure out where the belt nearest the door is mounted. All help appreciated.

Here are the promised photos. I got a text from Dave at A1 exhausts saying the welding was done, translation come and bring me some money Traction bars Once everything is back in the car they should be just about level which is about right as far as I can work out. If anyone has better idea put it in the discussion thread Chassis rails The final welding by the spring will be done once the spring is out, I didn't want to cook the new bushes. The rails are stitch welded to the floor and also welded from the top where the ribs in the pans were cut out to make the rails fit. Torana front end mount passenger side And drivers side This side is a bit funky so the handbrake still fits. The cuts in the bend still need to be welded again new bushes that didn't need to be cooked. There is a lot going on down that side, hand brake, steering column, column shift mechanism and exhaust. Really these cars aren't very big.

Hey Jase. From my experience I would leave a pop up sunroof in there, my last HZ had one and works really well getting the hot air out when you are driving around. As for the vinyl roof, the worlds worst rust trap. Hang on to this one until I can afford to buy it off you. I'm collecting HQ Holden bits. Mike

The car has taken a great leap forward. The chassis rails got welded in today. The lowering blocks are in, HQ type with matching u bolts and the rubber pads removed. The diff angle still needs to be set once the engine in in. I'm expecting the back to drop another inch or so once everything is in the car. The front wheels with HQ disc rotors are on I still have to try the front guards, I think that the front will have to come up a bit so the tires don't hit on full lock. There are other bits like the tamp bars mounted and rear mounts for the torana front end that are done. Good progress, but still heaps to do. I will post more pictures next week.

Nice work Neal and Mason bringing the whole 70's alive again.

With a 308 twin 2.5 is more than enough. in fact for driving round on the street twin 2 inch is plenty. The HQ with a 308 in it I had years ago sounded awesome with twin 2 inch pipes and cheapy straight through mufflers. I put dump pipes on with caps that could be unbolted without jacking the car up and it ran mid 14's all day.

You have to watch out for some of these deals, I got caught thinking that the 80 odd litres my truck takes would put me a couple of dollars up and free chocolate for the kids, didn't notice the 50 litres maximum for the discount until afterwards. Bastards.

I'm there. Hope the rain goes away.

When the the Holden is painted all the cavities will get drowned in fishoil. Stinks like nothing else but stops any more rust coming through.

Here are the photos of the rear wheels on the car. There is enough clearance to go lower. I'm going to use HQ Holden lowering blocks and take out the rubbers that go between the diff and the springs. This might make for a bit of extra harshness in the car but I think that having the diff located more firmly will help tame the power of the V8. I also found these that have been in the garage for 25 years. Must be well over due to use them. There has been a fair number of hours gone into making the chassis connectors. Here is part 1 Hopefully Clint, our resident certification genius will be happy. I think so.

After a couple of false starts I got to spend a few hours on the with Dave at A1 exhausts who is doing the chassis work. I got the new rear wheels and tires on. It look about right, reasonable clearance and I should be able to drop the back another 1.5 inches. I took a photo on my phone that disappeared. I will take some more and post.\ We started making good progress on the chassis rails, I though we would get them tacked into place ready for full welding. Big spanner got thrown in works when the mig wire ran out. Bugger. Had to wander down the drive way with beer in hand and watch the floor being put into a Ford Model A pick up Hot Rod that another mate is building. Thems the breaks.

Is it something new with the box or has it always done it? These boxes do weird stuff if they have sat round for a while. Getting it good and hot and then driving hard has been known to sort them out.

Yep they are they are worth singing about. Used to be moon beams expensive.