NickJ

I'm pretty noob at tig, my experience extends to telling one of the guys at work what i'm trying to do, they set up the machine for me to then fumble about for an hour learning how to re-sharpen the tungsten... So, hours of youtube later and slightly improved coordination i've started messing around with setting up the machine to fusion weld 0.6mm stainless (for a future project) few holes later and i'm narrowing in on the recipe. The edge came up pretty good while I got way off line on the butt causing a hole which I failed miserably at recovering! My interpretation of the colours is I could do with better Argon coverage? Will have a play with different cups and flows next either way. I had a go at AC aluminium but grabbed the wrong filler rod, maybe next week. Initial impression of the machine feels no different from the one at work, very happy!

Overnight shipping surprised the hell out of me! Total midget compared to the ancient Cebora mig and i'm impressed that the torch and controls don't feel as cheap as I was expecting. Fingers crossed to get chores out of the way and have a play.

I have both Stainless and Ali tasks for it, will be a solid workout if it arrives

This pic gave me FOMO, have been on the fence about buying a TIG for some time, just hit the go button on one of these: https://www.onlinetools.co.nz/products/weldpro-tig200-acdc-pulse-welder Best value I could find with proportional foot pedal..... Big spend tomorrow on all the other bits and pieces, you're a bad man Raizer

Land Rover spec MTF-94 for their gearboxes too, I currently use ATF (as recommended by LR barrys) which oddly works really well but will be switching to the Penrite 75-90 GL4 at next change cos it then keeps it standard with all the other shed junk.

For a one off setting up a diff, anything will do the job. If you're doing it often / flying to the moon, Starret or Mitutoyo

The first sump I fabricated for the Niva was with a mig, it had British spec leakage rates, being poor student at the time I fitted cotton (rag) patches with araldite which worked surprisingly well until round two which was 100% tig. Whats the temp rating on the return hose? first look gives me worry that failure means quick oil dump?

So just to test this, those parameters, a delta T of 50K means you've got a steady state heat flux of ~500W? Is my maths right? would you really get that much thermal transfer?

Yep, identical to mine but waaaaaaaaay more spendy, its the bubble that just won't burst.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/land-rover/listing/3355299264?bof=Mst7ExMe

yep

Electrical wholesalers here in Chch have good selection of basic terminals and sell in lots of 10 Way cheaper than jaycar/supercheap too

Yep, not as easy to cool panels as CO2 but being patient on flat surfaces it can do the job really well, if the parts can handle dunking it is the quickest way. Biggest drawback i've found is excessive condensation

I've been trying with LN2 on some nasty aftermarket tar-like goop on the Datsun underbody, no real result ended up resorting to a knot brush & grinder and various scrapers, heatgun and finally acetone. D-, will not do again.

Buy a bit of this for old leather, works a treat on boots. https://www.saddlerywarehouse.co.nz/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1050

Cheers! Plenty of relevant info in there, really need to get off my butt and make a slapping implement, paddle? So many gems in his videos, just difficult how long they are, he's at Bob Ross levels of calmness! Thats the exact type i've been looking at, but is something like this with more bite, oval jaws and a pedal worth the extra coin? https://www.machineryhouse.co.nz/S2264 Hmm, thats a good offer! i'm a week or two from really needing them, i'll reach out for sure if I can't decide, thank you!

Find rust, cut, make patch, check fit, trim, check, trim, check, trim, check, weld Thats pretty much how the last few sessions have gone, props to @mof for hooking me up with some argon, that got the boot floor into place legend! Gave up searching for 0.8mm offcuts and just went a brought a sheet, that allowed for visible panel repairs to kick off, starting with the drivers front guard The trailing edge had significant rust repairs, what appears to have been the strategy was cut out the rot and where the frame/stiffener is, just weld direct to that and fill with bog. Of course this made my job fun, I had to give up on like for like replacement going with judgement and dry fitting to the car. First of all replaced the rotted section of frame: Then shape the contour into a fresh piece Never got a weld pic, but its now securely attached. Then work on the lower, this got nasty, can just make out the multiple weld lines from donor patches and is pretty rusty/bent to work out where it should be. Reproduced the lower frame and glued that in after many dry fits to the car Also see the back edge of the upper patch fixed in place, managed to replicate the folded edge too, very chuffed. A quick inspection of the passenger guard showed it to be in much better health until I started digging... While it is relatively rust free, it had the best part of 5mm bog over the whole thing, its been very bent at some stage, beaten about right then filled (with much enthusiasm!) Full clean up showed quite a mission ahead Using the better guard as a guide, I sat down with the hammers and various dollys I've got much better shape now with the larger dents out, but will give it more time, it will need bog but hoping I can learn a few tricks to minimise the amount. New repro guards are near $500 give or take with freight extra so i'll be avoiding that bill as much as possible! Thats the notable work to date, many more smaller patches here and there in the sills and boot and two more large areas to tackle, most challenging is the rear guard lip, thinking a shrinker/stretcher combo would be helpful here, anyone have experience with them and able to offer advice? The vice mounted Machinery house ones look pretty good value, any reason to double down and go to larger stand mounted ones?

If the untouched filter is a water separator, I shudder to think what it looks like on the inside. In my limited diesel experience consisting mainly of neglected farm machinery is this is one of the first places to look.

If you had them matched to a slotted sleeve, they could be rotated to act as an extremely complex throttle

Where does our supply of Argon come from, I know a few small producers but is the bulk imported? Currently Helium supply is on the meltdown cos no tankers have come by for a while, is Argon similar?

I went in to get a fresh bottle a few weeks back and the trade guy said they hadn't had a delivery in months......

All healthy other than the diff then?

Beers 4 @Beaver! Picked up 4 new glowplugs at first light, threw them in and unsurprisingly the voltmeter now drops to 11V on pre-start, never done that in my ownership! Turn the key and the engine was tripping all over itself to start. Pretty stoked to finally have it starting with ease, hopefully the last two years of ownership haven't taken too much out of the starter. That will teach me for reading too many Land Rover barry forums that state the 300tdi doesn't need glow plugs, although I would still like to do a compression test for future reference.

Bugger it, popped out to the truck with a multimeter and spanner, can only reach 3 of 4 but they read 86, 86 and 7 Ohm. Hold the line, might owe you a beer.

On the check list, internet seems to say the engine doesn't need them but i'll pull them and test anyway.