NickJ

Ahh, PEEK eh, I'll have a chat to our machinists if they can think of anyone who would get involved. On a side note I was cryo testing conventional plastics earlier in the year and the amount samples bent out of shape was very amusing, not to mention the contraction! Wish I had some PEEK to throw in at the time, its not meant to move much at all.

Sounds just like some of the silly stuff we get involved with, but centerless grinding is not a station we have, I was interested as the dimensional effects from temperature can be quite extreme in plastics that I assumed they would overpower the benefits of grinding?

Sadly I've had another trip arise on the same weekend that will have me at the opposite end of the island, but PM me if you need some bits, can drop a few goodies in an envelope.

If you go down the speeduino route, get in touch, I sourced all the components off ali express where moq seemed to be 50 on everything......

We get pretty much that cnc bent by autobend, always comes out pretty good. Grinding plastic and high tollerance? not something heard often, that has me interested to hear more about

BBQ doesn't look to happy to be separated from its bottle

Those window lines make it look like a Lada Niva's slick city cousin

Head north, just before the motorway on the left theres a pub, aka 'the peg'

Good point about fuel under vacuum, that would discount that theory with quite some weight. Heat soak doesn't seem to be much of an issue with this set up, the runners don't seem to hold much heat at all, let alone the carbs. Having a fan on the water pump keeps airflow through the engine bay and being cross-flow keeps exhaust heat on the other side. It doesn't have a return line, that is something easy to try and prove, just vent the fuel to an external tank for the purpose of a test?

Yeah no issues at steady state, just rising off idle if its sat for a decent period

Yes, that was my initial thoughts, simple answer and all! There is roughly ~0.35L per runner (including port and carb) feeding a 0.4L cylinder that i'm surprised at how responsive it is during normal operation, it jumps off idle nicely, just after it sits idling for a while is where things get weird.

Been doing some more experimenting with the carbs on the Niva, after leaving the car to idle for 5min last weekend to help another vehicle, it instantly died when I tried to head off again, nothing immediately odd, but when I thought about it, i've been having trouble getting it to idle anything but lean, so why would that cause it to die? this weekend I hooked up the wide band and left it to idle, sure enough, wideband showed it as lean, after 5 min I gave the throttle a poke and sure enough it died with the wideband indicating a shift to off the scale rich! So far my explanation is that the long runners (due to making an equal length manifold that snakes around the distributor) is not keeping a high enough velocity that fuel is dropping out of suspension and pooling, this pooling is then made worse by the horizontal section of each runner! Right now i'm not sure how I will solve this issue, further looking at the set up I believe the lean spike at ~3000rpm is due to resonance in the runners stalling fuel flow in the carb as it happens at the same rev range independent of engine load, while trumpets could shift the band somewhere else, i'm short on room cos of the bonnet! In my digging i've found info from guys who have messed with emulsion tubes to solve similar ills, but ultimately $300 to re-cert for fuel injection is starting to sound very viable!

Not sure on the brand but I used a nice autodarken helmet that the battery had gone flat, was in a rush so not keen to leave it in the sun to charge up, did ~5min of painful squinting and somehow no arc-eye. Not sure on the brand but I used a nice autodarken helmet that the battery had gone flat, was in a rush so not keen to leave it in the sun to charge up, did ~5min of painful squinting and somehow no arc-eye.

i've had similar equipment flood from the tap being left on overnight, gravity feed+floats that don't seal too good was enough to hydraulic, even snapped the pull cord when it locked up! pulled the spark plug and pulled the cord a few times to clear it out and it was back in duty.

Best thing I ever got beaten into me as a young fella was speeds and feeds + how to sharpen a drill bit, the second of which is a true art.

put the remaining nuts back like nothing happened and drop off for a new super cat?

Wheel studs won't be super hard, if they were they'd fatigue too easy and snap, HSS without excessive rake will drill 12.9 with plenty of cutting fluid if you take your time. In saying that, brute force might be satisfying considering it's been a c^&t already. Have you tried putting normal nuts on the remaining studs nice and tight? that can help reduce the load on a single nut when they're tight.

Its running really rich when the secondary opens, I can't see anything obvious so its likely just in need of a good clean, I was planning on using it to run in my engine but just went straight to the dells instead. I have a box of parts & jets there, bit of poking around might sort it out.

Are you in chch? I happen to have a standard webber carb I obtained from Azzuro sitting on a standard manifold in the shed, its doin odd things at present, but you're welcome to try it to eliminate issues. Azzuro, I wish you didn't say you had an idf manifold, I would much like to try it somtime!

Yeah would be nice to have an easier way to do non performance mods such as FI, for now i'm happy learning a few more of the 50 fudges that consist of carburation. I drilled out the air correctors the other day but then realised I have no repeatable tests to prove the mod, gut feel is its better, but really I need to get my hands on a full set of jet drills before I make further experiments.

Nah, change of induction, if the cert plate didn't say carbs I would have changed years ago Once I rig the speeduino in it will be electric everything except induction, which is quite sad, I really should just suck up and re-cert, thinking bout it, tis probably cheaper than a set of jets..... Have speed input now, made more lines, timescale is still off, more like 1min over the entire range, more code to fix.... Long acceleration in 3rd, red is engine speed, (not calibrated ~ 5000rpm at full scale) green is AFR, blue throttle, the blip in mixture as the engine speed rises is interesting, few ideas, need to confirm, cool having the different inputs to give clues to the reasons. 50-60kph cruise is bang on, quite happy with that, not that you get to drive that steady in chch much!

Is that pieced together from a quad?

Do it! I really should work with them more often, always so rusty on the coding whenever I do. Bonus is that pretty much everything has been done before in some way online, that its an easy task to copy and paste then change a few lines to suit.

Made some progress getting the rpm signal to the car, brought an LM2917 IC and put it together, the datasheet and maths was a bit much for after work so I messed about with it until I figured out how it worked. I then rigged up the arduino to generate 5 seconds of 1000rpm followed 5 seconds of 6000rpm as a test signal with a multimeter on the output, its now outputting roughly 1V/1000rpm, just in time for the weekend to try it in the car.

Wait what, you guys have a waterjet out there?