8ball

Come across many a sneaky killswitch ideas b4. Cigarette lighters Ashtrays switch combinations Etc etc. If you have an idea of wiring etc and a little general mechanical knowhow, it's pretty easy to come up with a killswitch idea.

Try it. No pics of my cars lol. Next challenge is to "find" the batrery...

All my elec fuel pumps ive always ran wiring direct from the battery. And ran a relay to a seperate switch which i mount hidden under the dash or even seat. This way it also acts as a kill switch for anti theft. I can also shut the fuel off in an emergency if i want. Or i can prime the fuel pressure before i crank the engine. Etc. Just means i have to manually turn the pump on and off everytime . Used to have it on the ignition but if you get a sticky needle and seat and the carby starts to flood you kill the engine when tyou turn the pump off. By having if on a seperate wiring harness i can just turn off the pump and the engine keeps running, which emptys the fuel bowl.

Usually i check - do Rip tail shaft and check unis (even pull a cap or so to check pitting etc. Check tailshaft isn't out of balance or bent etc. Balance all wheels Check and grease all wheel bearings check shocks and balljoints (full suspension safety check and re- grease) While rear axles out the diff check theyre not bent. Check engine mounts Check engine harmonc balancer. Check flywheel/flexplate bolts are tight etc. Probably something im forgetting that i normally just check but can't recall. Id have the car infront of me and e able to test drive so what ever order i do the above would depend on circumstances. If still no luck i then start checking engine balance etc. . *** dunno what ratios your car has. As to what it can achieve. But have you tried doing 70+ in 3rd or even 2nd gear? Is it still there? Is it worse? (Higher rpm may make it worse or clear up but force vibration earlier speed?) All else fails start mounting go- pros under wheel arches etc trans tunnel engine bay etc etc and go for a drive. Much safer than a mate in a boot. A bit more legal and you have a recording to watch not going by a half deaf/blind mates recount.

If ya can afford it maybe splurge on some smiths gauges with a chrome bezzle and they will blend in with the rest.

And brushless... Lipo + brushless. So much better. Power, runtime and so much lighter. Up and down a ladder all day with a nicad drill etc and then go to a lipo... so much better.

Mpg isnt always a good indication of running well. Had an old codger once come in for a service and tune on his old statesman Said all was well but figured its done him well and it deserved a bday. So new oil, air cleaner, plugs etc etc. Then threw the sniffer up the tailpipe etc and hooked up timing light etc etc. Man this thing was lean as. If you drove it as he did it was possibly ok. But if you ever went to tow with it or heaven forbid open the throttle past 1/4 it would pop n fart etc and wouldn't rev. It would probably do a few valves etc and hole the piston if you tried to hild it too long. So we tell the old guy and hes like. - oh yeah for sure make her happy. So we tune it and get it running sweet as. A few big revs and test drives etc to clear the crap out the exhaust (was like spy car smoke screens) and she definitely was happy. 3 days latter the old guy comes in unhappy. Apparently its now drinking like a sailor on shore leave.... So we check it out and mixtures are perfect and no fuel leaks. Off he goes again This happens 2 more times til we sit down and chat. We agree to "fix" his fuel economy but we wont warranty it because its way to lean. He's happy because he just puts around in it. So note goes in file not to touch fuel mixtures etc and never open throttle etc on test drives. We saw the car regularly for 7 more years before he lost his license due to being 92 and half blind. Moral of yarn, awesome economy. Shit drivability.

Well if the price is right and body is good, then a dead engine isn't the be all and end all. They're usually cheap enough for a 2nd hand xflow or ya can swap for a v8 or even a barra.

Dropped valve can do the same.. If be ripping the converter cover off and having a look. Also the rocker cover. Buying non running unknown cars can be risky. unless its just a cheapie.

Yeah this was too. We ran them in parrallel and series so it gave extra voltage yet also larger capacity. If you're just after a commute (then a different setup may be required.) We had this setup for a hoot. Probably ran 10-15mins. But most of it was flat out launches/drags and the odd burnout lol. (Elec burnouts are weird) You may want a few SLA batteries to keep it cheap and give you distance? You may also find the electronics (speed controlller etc) as the juice killer. A cheap inefficient motor and speed controller will not only give poor performance but also limit its distance of travel. You may find swapping the motor etc for something better may enable you to run "less" battery for the same results or better.

See if you can use the power tool (recreate/copy) the quick release clip i setup for quick easy battery swaps. And get the biggest amp hour ones you can get. (Ie 6.0 or 5.0ah)

Mate had one (was ild looked agricultural as f#ck lol) We ripped it and fitted 6 Milwaukee batteries. And a new motor setup after we fried the original lol. If you nailed it straight off you almost guaranteed to find yourself sitting on ya arse staring at the scoots about 10m away lol. That thing was scary as f#ck. Probably also due to the severe lack of brakingand shite handling lol

+1 for the batteries

Have several old dinosaurs myself. And a few hot 6's. Each have there ups n downs. The downs for a nice v8 is the rego. Constant fuel usage for a tough v8 even when tinkerbell herself is controling the throttle. .... A hot 6 has an all together different sound. (Specifically the Non turbo ones) at full noise they're an angry sound8ng demonic thing. The turbo 6s are a nice all rounder. Usually cheaper insurance. Less juice if your light on throttle. And yet once you get into it all hell breaks loose and enough torque to satisfy any v8 lover. I will always prefer old school over new though. I prefer that when i stand on the accelerater its me who decides when enough is enough, or how much im going to give etc. New cars have to much computer cutbacks. (Even with traction control off) The flyby wire on the GT is a pain even if you floor it the computer takes readings from everything (temp, abs sensors etc etc) and it slows and limits the amount the throttlebody opens. Unlike my old school carby engines when the peddle is pushed the cable opens carby obligingly.

Drive a typhoon and tell me which has bigger balls.... (And i own a SC 335 GT, so can vouch for it) The f6 is a beastly animal. Yeah its why we recommend to run a higher octane fuel with injector cleaner as all the crap mixes with the fuel and makes it a shit concoction until cleaned out. Sometimes a double dose is required (as in do it twice - not 2 bottles at once) Look into the airflow sensor or map sensor or maf or what ever it is they call it. It could be stuffed etc or dirty

He's obviously never driven a healthy turbo barra. Or he'd prob be pale as and stink of shite... instead of just dribbling it lol

Yeah they used them for speedway. A barra..... he doesn't want to pull intake off and you sugest a barra conversion lol. Now that's a lot of work. .. want to be pretty attatched to the ea etc. Easier to just grab a ba/bf etc lol

Aussie speed do a manifold conversion to carburetor for them if you hate injection that much... Or find a 3.9 cpi manifold and bung a holley/weber 2bl carb onto it.

We just found as the fuel system "de-gummed" itself the quality of the fuel degraded (obviously ) and could cause other issues. So running a better fuel assisted this. Also by just running 98 for 2 or 3 tanks every few months can have a similar effect as injector cleaner (once the fuel system is cleaned up) ** by no means is injector cleaner a substitute for actual cleaning and testing of injectors. Also i advisea fuel filter swap. Usually after the cleaner or any crap in the tank will just dislodge and gunk up the new filter. If you're pedantic you could do a new filter drop in the cleaner and then replace it again after. Some people believe that the cleaner can dislodge crap from a semi blocked filter and allow it to find its way to injectors etc. ?

Nulon or valvoline injector cleaner is always in cupboard at work. So one of those 2. throw it in with 98 octane fuel. As said above spray some start ya bastard or such around the intake to head gasket area and listen for changes in engine conditions (may stall even if bad) I cant recall exactly but didn't these have a bad issue with air flow sensors etc?? Get real dirty etc and tun like a bag of cats? Hahaha yes the dizzy location is a nice touch lol. Just be lucky its not a dick Johnson special with a turbo hanging off the side ... Cant see or reach squat thanks to the intake pipes etc.

From memory the dizzy is right under the intake and not the easiest to reach. So is the coil. So they're two things that are rarely touched. Have you tried some injector cleaner through it? Can sometimes help. Especially with good quality fuel like 98 octane for a few tanks. Think they also had issues with air flow sensor from memory and coolant temp sensors. Been a while since i played with one.

Yeah they look pretty crap. Motor bounces around like its attatched to a couple of rubber bands instead of mounts. There's little splits etc in them and the rubber looks a bit deformed. So ill chuck a couple new ones at it with the big block.

Yeah hollow thread with a wire attatched inside. Don't ask how good or bad it is cos i only drove it once and popped a rear wheel cylinder...... Then noticed a few other issues.... Hmmmm need to replace those engine mounts....... F#ck it only few more bolts..... out ya come ya lil b#stard!!! So now a Big Block sits awaiting to grace the chassis rails soon and scare all the neighborhood kiddies.... haha. Hmmm while im at it that steering coupling........... lol

You reminded me. Found my Acuspark ignition conversion for mine yesterday. So fitting it now. Note of reference. Unless yours is different. Get some longer mounting screws. The points ones are too short for the exciter mount...... Everything but that size atm all the way upto 1.5" thread... lol. May have to raid one of my rc cars.... lol ** if you got the ignition coil with it be careful. The stud ontop is just a hollow weak thread. Young fella next door was assisting and it snapped off while being tightened with a 1/4" set. Wasn't over tightened either as he ain't that strong. Being only 7 lol. Best cars to learn on are old cars. He cant do squat on his mums Kia lol.

Got a bit inspired today. Peeled off all the covers from the HB (after i dusted about 1" of dust fron the top lol) Hooked up a battery and cranked it over for a bit to prime fuel pump (this also pumps some oil uo and around engine before firing. Start ya bastard doesn't allow oil pressure priming). Then covered the carby intake a bit (i pissed the choke off ages ago) and cranked again for about 4secs til she coughed. Then half throttle flicked the key and away she purred. Been almost a year since i fired it up last... If i can get her out the driveway later i may go for a spin. ...