MightyJoe

bits and pieces of a few cars lol. you need 35mm for an escort, and a rear bowl sump to clear the crossmember. but theres heaps of info on uk sites about these too.

Nope. You've got a bitsa mate.

You'll need pick up pipes as well. They're different.

Escort crossflow is rear bowl sump and cortina is front bowl . Escort enfine mounts are 35mm and cortina are 55mm. Or vice versa. Can't remember. I have a set of cortina ones you can have for mocking up if you want them.

Hi i got the motor back together this weekend. I gave it back to the machine shop and he stripped and hot tanked the block again. he checked all the bearings and there was nothing wrong with them, huge relief, much confusion on the shiny oil. its Lucas run in oil, high zinc for the flat tappet high lift cam so i don't know if i was just looking at the zinc or what. but in a black drain tray it looked fucking expensive ill say that but he showed me the bearings and the cam. everything perfect. Apparently i'd forgotten to fit a bung at the end of the oil gallery, (i meticulously check this i'm sure of it.) but who knows. so the oil was flying past the pressure switch and straight out behind the front cover. It has oil pressure now. i primed everything as before and turned it over and over. nothing. was nervous but i put the plugs in and started it anyway. within 2 seconds i had pressure and a shit load of it at that. so its running, but i have a massive carb problem now. the webers are throwing fuel out by the bucket load and washing the plugs out. i think its cos I've gone from a lynx manifold single dcoe which sat flat to a double weber setup which they now sit on an incline. I've read that this can cause them to chuck fuel out of the cold start mechanism but that's a problem for another thread. a bit of red face on my behalf perhaps. i'm still dubious bu just glad i didn't fuck anything.

i used an ali express vent to atmosphere catch can. came with a mounting kit and small filter for less than $30. half the price they re selling the same ones on trademe for. theres a drain plug on the botton which you could probably fit a hose barb to and fit a straight return to the sump if you wanted.

Yeah gonna get it in the bench and have a look.

I\ve been playing with this on and off forever now, made the decision to pull the sump and worst case was realised. bearing material in the bottom. not good. I've made the decision the motor has to come out again. bit fed up about it but theres too much metalic in the oil. im only kidding myself. hopefully its a fresh set of bearings needed and nothing more. plus actually working out why it won't build pressure.

Sorry guys I haven't looked at the car tbh. I'm in the UK with my dad at the moment so injuatbleft it alone. I will put an update up as soon as I back and work out what it is. Cheers for everyones help so far.

Take some pictures and speak to palmside in chch. Simon is pretty good with these he'll be able to tell you if it's able to be repaired

I don't think so. You can remove the rear plate and inspect the rotor but theres nowhere to manually make it work. Its just the drive gear into the cam

the oil pickup is pressed into the block. some early ones were threaded apparently. not mine. the machine shop removed it and i hammered it back into place with some wood to stop the end getting damaged. there was some oil pressure there, as i removed the pressure switch completly and turned the engine over and there were a few pulses of oil, but they barely dribbled out of the block tbh, i'd expect it to be making a mess of the inner guard

Na it's a plain jane single one. It's a direct replacement which takes the 'later' (ha) screw in type filters raher than the original cartridge type.

So leave the pump on and just pump oil through the filter pipe? I was thinking it could be airlock and thats partly why I started it the second time and held the revs up a bit but they're not exactly sealed, they vent to atmosphere and the rocket cover was off too. ill try that though cheers.

This is a tiny Welch plug? If so then yes I did that myself. I also installed the grub scewws each end of the gallery. There is no oil escaping anywhere. I think I need to find a manual oil pressure gauge and hook it up. I would hope they checked everything tbh as I've never assembled a bottom end before I wanted it to be right hence why I got them to assemble the short block. Oil pick up pipe is my only logical step I think. If there's nothing obviously wrong there I'll have to take the engine out and strip it back down I think.

no i bought aftermarket ones, i couldn't find any crossflow ones and they would've needed machining to fit anyway. yeah i want to be able to use the cam so though i'd be pulling some silly revs. until the gearbox shits itself. anyway. its a 5 bolt crank . The machine shop came on a recommendation and weren't cheap but they do heaps of racecars and he knows his crossflows from the race circuits so i am confident in his work. i am going to drop the sump as soon as i can bear to look at it again and go from there i think. no load on the motor, it started pretty much off the bat and i held the revs for maybe 20 seconds, no pressure so i turned it off, checked a few things, started it again for another 20 seconds, turned it off and have turned it over with no plugs in a couple of times. i used heaps of assembly lube and oiled all the bores etc well before i attempted to start it. i really cant be arsed to pull the motor again. really! but man. i should've just stuck a ca18 det in it and be done with the fucking thing.

thanks for that info. Yeah its a 120 block. 6015 casting number. not an L block but its a 1967 mk2 with the mk1 running gear so shes a bit of an oddball. The engine was completely stripped to the last grub screw, everything was washed, acid tanked and assessed and replaced as necessary. the only original parts are the cast block, head and crank. everything else is brand new. i paid the engineering company to assemble the short block but i installed the pickup pipes and sump and oil pump etc. i bought big end bearings and cam bearings on their specifications. it was also line bored to accept square main caps so i would assume the tolerances would be perfect. i've checked and rechecked the oil pump mounting and i took it apart earlier and had a good look over it and as far as i can tell the oil pump is ok. i did replace the grub screw behind the engine mount at the time as well as the front and rear oil gallery ones behind the timing case. i took out the oil pressure switch earlier and turned it over a few times and oil did come out but it wasn't as much as i would've thought and yes, i understand what you say about the oil pressure switch but i have 2 of them and both are behaving the same, one off the original engine and one out of the box new. i think i'm going to have to drop the sump, check the pickup and return pipes are still seated properly and go from there. i honestly dont know what else to do though if it isn't that. i hope to hell i havent done any serious damage. i can deal with a flat cam but cant afford to rebuild the motor again

no even checked in the manual earlier. theres only 4. 2 to alternator, 1 to temp sender and 1 to oil pressure. the oil pressure is a spade connector and the water temp is a bullet. as well as the colour difference also i checked the switch manually earlier. earthed it to the battery and pushed a small scribe to activate it and it worked as it should.

na spring and retainer there and moving as it should

yeah brand new 'high pressure' pump from burton power. reckon i should check that cheers.

na. just changed the filter. i primed it first and turned it over without plugs, light stayed on.

i filled it with oil, and the filter and turned it round before installing. i've taken the pump off and the end plate off the pump also and its nice and lubed up . i've read somewhere assembly lubricant can clog the filter.

i've finally got around to getting my cortina started, everything is new. bearings, high pressure oil pump, cam, lifters, pistons, everything. got it fired up pretty easily and wanted to hold it at 2000 rpm to run the cam in but the oil pressure light wont go out. i've had 2 different senders in the hole, and tested them manually with a scribe pushed in the switch ( which made the light go out) . i left it out the hole and some oil does come out but it doesnt come out with as much force as i would've expected. i've turned the engine over a few times with the plugs out (for speed) and the light still wont go out. i dont want to keep doing this as theres a chance i'll fuck the cam at the least, and at the most the whole engine. anyone had any experience with this? i took the pump off the check its not siezed and its all good, everything was primed before anyway. i'm using lucas run in high zinc oil SAE 30. its been run for about a minute maximum so far and im shit scared to even turn it over now, i cant afford to fuck this up and rebuild it again. i'm thinking i have to drop the sump and check the pickup pipe. i did this when first assembling but you can never be too sure. its a 1500 pre crossflow kent engine.

Thanks very much.

is there a legal limit to the amount of flexible fuel hose you can use? the old fuel line went from the mechanical fuel pump on the left rear of the engine straight over the rocker cover diagonally into the fuel regulator, then onto the carb. i want to run it rearwards out of the pump, right acorss the firewall then forwards along the passenger inner wing, cable tying it to the loom, then into the regulator. this would be about 1m of hose. its 5/16 proper fuel line, and as far away form any heat as i can get it. thanks. pink dots are the current routing, yellow is where i want it to go