MaxPower

cheers, looks like theres a few types of housings and wheels to choose from

hey after some advice, my 13bt diesel blew a head gasket today, I have a good condition 15b dyna engine I have been wanting to put in my cruiser for a while now 3.4L vs 4.1L. I was thinking about putting compound turbos on it. would the stock ct26 from the 13bt work with a hx40 I have? (has a 16cm rear housing) I don't mind getting the injection pump rebuilt\modified to suit boost and more fuels. cheers

No wof no worries right?

Anyone got a spare bed in gizzy? Also can’t remember who I booked in with at the lake, keen on a barby too

hey guys i brought this turd tonight for a couple hundy, it blew up on the way home (wasn't testing top speed at all when it stopped working) is there a bigger engine and manual that go into these for cheap backyard style? low km so worth not scrapping

Thanks for the springs help, are they sitting right in that pic thou?

heres some 2" cobra land cruiser 70 series lift springs next to my 95 2wd dyna, they look like they would fit but you would need to use the bottom two fat dyna leafs. another hori way would be to mount some coil springs in between your diff and bumpstops ftw. cruiser shackle extenders would be simple to fit too. sorry for non airbag chat. also keen for an island mish one day

i brought one of these off here, its currently getting paddock bashed due to rust and fucked shocks, but its manual so if it ever blows up theres some cheap parts for yours, panels are\were pretty good.

Hi can I change the 14” rims to 16” rims Without any worries on a 95 Toyota dyna? It’s got a hubo and cof etc. only gets 90kmph before the engine noise gets to me. Cheers and sorry for new car question.

Can do if need be had a good time that year

i just brought that same one haven't used it yet but it looks like junk straight out of the box, may return it for the boc one for similar price, the hand piece on the tool shed one looks really chinise and the consumables look rubbish. but the tool shed one does come with a 3? year warranty

ended up getting 45,000L roughly a day out of it, haven't got it tested yet but haven't got sick or the shits. the water goes through a decent filter setup down to 1 micron, put a 750w sump pump with float switch down the well to pump to a 35,000L storage tank. so happy been able to sleep better not having to worry about running out of water, kinda wished i had documented it better as more people could build these as its not difficult. if i build a pool i will probably dig it by hand too.

$1500. or some roofing materials..

its for sale if interested. have found another vintage vehicle I would rather play around with, have original tags and plates for it, doors need re-wooding, has no motor and box. cheers for looking

found out why my 13bt diesel was cutting out when hitting boost above 15psi, was a little electric valve leaking that sits down by the starter motor, it controls a flap in the intake so that it was cutting airflow off to the engine completely when on song, took me ages to figure out and goes good now. the other issue I'm having is winding the fuel screw in doesn't seem to make any difference? it can be wound right in but doesn't seem to make a difference.

was dirt, pumice, sand , clay, then sand when i hit the water now I'm into pumice\sand where the water is, have dug 500mm today and the flow rate is 20L a minute its been running for about an hr now and is starting to run clear. Will get the water tested but happy just to have water for the animals, garden, spa pool and possibly the toilets if i can be arsed.

spade with the handle cut off, then into a ss bucket hauled up on a rope and pulley. same way to get out just pull myself up on the rope

still digging, 1050 od , 900 id hole thanks

hit water at 6.2M i was a meter off my calculations, now to dig through the water and get a good drawdown rate for pumping water. deeper than it looks

i divined for the water, used a post hole borer with 1.5m homemade extensions till i hit the water, i will put a submersible sump pump with float switch on it when i hit the water, i will stop digging at about 4m then lower the concrete rings down and keep digging and stacking the rings, if the pump won't keep up then I'm deep enough. the rings will stop the hole collapsing and the rings have been cured for more than two months. thats the plan anyway

started digging a well today for water got to 3m deep, water level is 5.2M would like to go to 7.2-8-2m deep. have 900x900 well rings coming next week. can't afford to pay a well driller to put a bore down.

cool yes for cert, no to dodgy welding, never looked to see if the other arms would fit just guessed they would be different, thanks for your guys advice.

Hi there, I have got spindles, stubs, discs, and callipers off a 1992 L300 to go onto my 1983 L300, the problem is the upper ball joint hole is larger on the new suff (there is no ball joint that fits off the shelf) can I get an engineer to make some hard tapered adapters like these? I hope so because they are getting made next week. https://www.doctordiff.com/a-body-upper-ball-joint-tapered-adapter.html Have read that the upper ball joints don't have as much stress as lowers so should be sweet? Thanks.

had to google k24 engine rotation.. nice work.