fletch

So the usual 3 or 4 weeks in OS time was 3 or 4 months.

I stripped my old head with the hopes of giving it a quick valve lap and send off for a skim was a bust as most of the lifter bores are scored. I must have had some shit through the motor at some stage.

Lucky @Ja1lb8 to the rescue with a spare head from a one day project he bought back from oz

This is a turbo head - they are the same NA or Turbo, but the previous owner in Oz had copper fire rings added to help seal with a stock gasket. It would be at least 14 years ago that Ray bought it. Must have been before everyone got the MLS

also, sadface

Anyway, drilled and tapped a fitting for the VCT oil feed like this, but in the new head and dropped it off to the machinist with some spare valves, and a set of Kelford cams and springs. Was hoping to have it back by now, but hes under the pump like everybody so maybe end of january

Maybe a ride height sensor fault, or difference between them

6 hours ago, tortron said:

This is the bluebird mount 

 

The holes don't line up, theres 4 over rather than 3 

Also spread out more, but I think if I just made a bracket for the mount the 3 would be fine. 

 

The se-r axles will Definately work with a 32 trans, I'm not so sure about the 50 series bluebird one now so I may just need to change boxes. Cvs still stuck in it so some key measurements can't be taken yet

I have played this game before. 32 box is cable clutch, 50 is hydraulic.

32 box has smaller gears, not necessarily weaker I think. But this means you need a 32 hanger bracket off the back of the motor for the right hand shaft as its closer to the engine than the 50 series box.

Manual cars also had a mount on the front of the crossmember to help reduce the shock load. Especially if you want to operate the clutch and gears in a manner befitting a certain character from chch who can tell a story

5 hours ago, AALAWS said:

 

This is how it sits at the back of the engine - I'm assuming air flow is from right to left so would you remove the hose between the air regulator and the IAA unit or bypass the everything from before the air regulator?

The throttle cables across the plenum seem pretty good - the throttles were closing up nicely when disengaged if that's what you mean?

I think air flows from left to right in that pic. Filtered metered air comes in at the left and goes into the IAC, FICD, and idle screw block and gets into the manifold its bolted to control the idle.

Air also goes into the left of the 'air reg' which is actually the cold start air bleed. It is bolted to a water pipe and has an element in it that is connected to ignition and as it heats up it closes.

Yours could be stuck open. Take it off and block the hoses to see if that helps. A couple of squirts of brake clean should flush it out if it's scabby. Skyline ones fit of you need a replacement.

2 hours ago, xsspeed said:

Chur, had z31 vg30s in mind

I've had grit/crap/whatever get stuck in vvti actuators before which messed with timing and idle revs as was getting stuck, could be worth whipping them out for a flush/clean

Symptoms were high/slightly tough idle like unmetered air was getting by. I fucked around with IACs for so long before seeing it was a timing/vvti issue

This was in an auto and would require heavy breaking at rest to resist rolling fwd as it was loading the torque converter

Yes the vtc actuator moves a piston in the end of the cam and pressures up the pulley. All it does is advance the inlet cam a bit.

they are common to leak with age, and usually causes a rattle from the inlet pulleys.

Don't think it will change the idle rpm tho.

11 hours ago, xsspeed said:

Theres no vct on these right?

they have it on both inlet cams, see the bulge in the timing belt cover.

36 minutes ago, JustHarry said:

Idk about yous but crimp terminals especially those pre plastic ones from supercheap/repco always manage to work loose.

Use quality crimp terminals. Drop of solder and a quick heat shrink. And you've got a joint that will never have a bad connection or pull out.

 

It's not rocket science.

/I'm sure most of you actually know this 

Ling

Use heaps of them on high vibration stuff at work.

The good quality lugs will hold on until the wire breaks.

Have you got plenty of Tyre pressure? I run some $8 deestone sack barrow tyres. They seem to last a long time for me and im pretty heavy and ride it on all kinds of rocks and shit

On 11/09/2022 at 23:15, Roman said:

However, looking at the logs from the drags, my voltage drops by quite a lot with high rpm anyway.

Maybe it's alternator rpm based reduction, maybe its belt slip, maybe it's Maybelline?


 

Maybe it's just electrical load. Your injectors and coils would be working hard as rpms rise, and there is only .6v difference.

At 6:20 the voltage jumps straight up as soon as the load drops.

54 minutes ago, zep said:

Is it worth buying this? What is this brand like?

https://www.savageperformanceandspares.com/products/holden-commodore-vt-vz-5-7l-gen-3-ls1-v8-140a-alternator?_pos=19&_sid=6343e4a29&_ss=r

you can buy the same fitment alternator here  https://franklinperformance.nz/products/oex-140a-ls1-alternator-mxa306   edit - $399, maybe cheaper on rockauto?

i have one for my rb30. Haven't run it yet, but its a common mod for RB's as its a bolt on. The OEX brand one i got appears to be well manufactured like the jap ones i have and has the same mitsubishi plug

Next mission is replace the exhaust as its falling apart.

Then do the timing chain tensioner as its pretty much gone. They wear through and then over extend and fall out. It's on its last legs. It's an engine out job to do it properley as you need to reseal the sump.

Then maybe a manwell swap, possibly at the same time. I do quite like the whole not changing gears part of the auto. Maybe I'll fit a later 4n71 4 speed auto

And then sell the super six, i have a few of them in stock, and that will fund a paint job on this one

Edit- I was going to sell this as it was an impulse buy, but I really like driving it.

Lucky I had some carb jet drills from my minibike hijinks.

That didn't work so further investigation revealed it was the accelerator pump jet. There is a check valve between the pump and the jet that was leaking back to the pump giving you no gas if you had been decelerating or idling for a while.

The carb bodies are made from a pretty soft material and the seat for the check valve is cut straight into the body. I have a very similar carb from an early 80s nissan and it has brass seats for all of the check valves.

I was hopeful of a barry fix by putting in a slightly larger ball and giving the spring a stretch for some more compression but that didn't help.

On the way to swapmeat a clunk started up in the steering which slowly got worse. The ball joint in the centre rod of the steering flags out on all of these models and the previous shape too. I thought I would be smart and fit up a spare from my collection, but it's the later 330 model and they went to a bigger taper and ball so no dice.

The local steering and suspension shop rebuilds the joints and have done all of my other ones so I'll drop it off there next week.

Next issue is there is a big flat spot in the carb when you have been decelerating or just rolling along to a stop.

On this car it will just die when you get on the gas. It's a bit inconvenient as you have to pop it into neutral and crank it then back to D as fast as you can.

It can lead to some serious sphincter clenching moments as @Bistro discovered when we pulled out of a driveway and stalled and a fuel tanker came roaring around the corner...

My wagon also has this issue but it's a manual and you can give it a rev before letting out the clutch so it's manageable. I always thought this was due to all the slop in the throttle shaft but having 2 cars behave the same made me think maybe it was the low speed fuel jet or something like that.

My Mrs wants to drive the car but isn't proficient at the hot start technique so I need to fix it.

I thought it could be the accelerator pump so I went for that first. I had some parts in stock so swapped that out in the car but it made no difference.

So

I got a bit carried away and pulled all the jets out and discovered some of the air bleeds were corroded.

Bonus pic for lols of the extra long u bolts that the last jokers installed. Had to trim them for wof as they got hooked up on the lip around the pit at the testing station and they had to do skids to get it off.

Gave me flashbacks of coromandel nats dirt track racing maybe @chris r @Threeonthetree and some others? Blowing numerous tyres in the panelvan.

So in a fit of madness, I found the appropriate engine support and ripped out all of the 'rusty' parts.

@Bistrocame over and helped wire wheel all of the rust off. Most of it just brushed off by hand...

And next minute we were spray painting all the parts in my gazebo outside in the rain at 11pm.

No pics, just imagine all the suspension parts painted black.

I had it back together and got the wof the next day in time to leave for swapmeat

Then I decided to get it going and take it to swap meat and make an attempt to sell it as I have too many projects.

Unfortunately for me, it wasn't my day at the testing station as my main man did most often he inspection, but some other peacock came over with his yellow crayon and said all of the brown steel was rusty and a fail. I tried to explain that it was not some pressed tin piece of rust, but actual steel.

Nope, not having it.

Next up was some more maintenance.

The brake master cylinder was poked. Lucky I had a nos one in stock. I had robbed the reservoirs for the super six so it's still rolling the dirty og ones

Followed by the caliper rebuild. Getting good at these now. Cortina pistons and puegot seals go straight in. Plus a couple of new brake hoses.

Then all of the ball joint boots were fucked so out they went

Then I got sucked into a big project at work and didn't touch it for 2 yrs

On Karl's green Cedric we changed the manky fuel tank out for a diesel one from the same 230 series and it was pretty straight forward apart from being a bit taller.

I got a tank from either karl or @brocky41i forget now. Also a diesel tank, but from a later 330 Cedric. Wasn't quite the same in the filler neck area unfortunately.

So a fair bit of measuring and measuring followed by some furious anger and a bit of fuel rated hose and it was now the same

I ran the flap wheel on the die grinder through rhe donor pipe to get the rust out first.

A bit of an extension to the straps and it went straight in.

On the 34567th try

Replaced the fuel filter and chucked in a $10 trademe pump which lasted long enough to prime the carb before it china'd out and shit the bed so I had to buy the $70 one dammit.

First jobs were maintenance jobs. @Carsnz123was up for a few days so we gave it a tune up, dizzy cap, rotor, points , plugs etc, bit of maniseal on the exhaust manifold to pipe flange as it was poked.

Did a little bit of driving around, but after a while it would die randomly and would only start after turning the electric fuel pump off and on.

I suspected a blockage on the fuel pickup.

Yep

Bit of shuffling about and the tank was out

@RUNAMUCKand @- i5oogt - can have a good chuckle about this as I'm not the most slender of humans and you have to get right into the boot and spoon the fuel tank to get it out, and they saw me do it on the green ced.

Bit of a slosh around and this came out of the tank.

Nope, she's gone.

I saw this for sale locally 3-4 years ago and thought I better own it. I drove it around for a while until I got frustrated with it cutting out.

The oldest photo I have of it was when I was having a shed reshuffle. It's at the back cos I was pissed off.

The interior is pretty mint with cloth and vinyl seats, l26, 95000miles.

Sweet after market 80s sound system with single speaker on the parcel tray

Apart from the stuffed paint, there is only 1 spot of rust, on the front guard.

5 hours ago, cubastreet said:

No, it produces less particulates, NOx etc. LPG is still non renewable carbon fuel.

It probably has the lowest accumulated carbon of any fuel.

All the liquid fuels we burn are now extracted and piped/tankered/trucked to a refinery, then processed, and piped to fuel terminal then tankered to marsden point, pumped to wiri, trucked to our petrol station.

NZ Lpg is stripped out of the wellstream gas at the source, and trucked to the service station.

The stuff in the south island is sea tankered from New Plymouth to nelson/chch/Dunedin.