fletch

Bonus pic for lols of the extra long u bolts that the last jokers installed. Had to trim them for wof as they got hooked up on the lip around the pit at the testing station and they had to do skids to get it off. Gave me flashbacks of coromandel nats dirt track racing maybe @chris r @Threeonthetree and some others? Blowing numerous tyres in the panelvan.

So in a fit of madness, I found the appropriate engine support and ripped out all of the 'rusty' parts. @Bistrocame over and helped wire wheel all of the rust off. Most of it just brushed off by hand... And next minute we were spray painting all the parts in my gazebo outside in the rain at 11pm. No pics, just imagine all the suspension parts painted black. I had it back together and got the wof the next day in time to leave for swapmeat

Then I decided to get it going and take it to swap meat and make an attempt to sell it as I have too many projects. Unfortunately for me, it wasn't my day at the testing station as my main man did most often he inspection, but some other peacock came over with his yellow crayon and said all of the brown steel was rusty and a fail. I tried to explain that it was not some pressed tin piece of rust, but actual steel. Nope, not having it.

Next up was some more maintenance. The brake master cylinder was poked. Lucky I had a nos one in stock. I had robbed the reservoirs for the super six so it's still rolling the dirty og ones Followed by the caliper rebuild. Getting good at these now. Cortina pistons and puegot seals go straight in. Plus a couple of new brake hoses. Then all of the ball joint boots were fucked so out they went Then I got sucked into a big project at work and didn't touch it for 2 yrs

On Karl's green Cedric we changed the manky fuel tank out for a diesel one from the same 230 series and it was pretty straight forward apart from being a bit taller. I got a tank from either karl or @brocky41i forget now. Also a diesel tank, but from a later 330 Cedric. Wasn't quite the same in the filler neck area unfortunately. So a fair bit of measuring and measuring followed by some furious anger and a bit of fuel rated hose and it was now the same I ran the flap wheel on the die grinder through rhe donor pipe to get the rust out first. A bit of an extension to the straps and it went straight in. On the 34567th try Replaced the fuel filter and chucked in a $10 trademe pump which lasted long enough to prime the carb before it china'd out and shit the bed so I had to buy the $70 one dammit.

First jobs were maintenance jobs. @Carsnz123was up for a few days so we gave it a tune up, dizzy cap, rotor, points , plugs etc, bit of maniseal on the exhaust manifold to pipe flange as it was poked. Did a little bit of driving around, but after a while it would die randomly and would only start after turning the electric fuel pump off and on. I suspected a blockage on the fuel pickup. Yep Bit of shuffling about and the tank was out @RUNAMUCKand @- i5oogt - can have a good chuckle about this as I'm not the most slender of humans and you have to get right into the boot and spoon the fuel tank to get it out, and they saw me do it on the green ced. Bit of a slosh around and this came out of the tank. Nope, she's gone.

The car sat in a shed for 20 years maybe with a cover on it that has caused the paint to really suffer. At some stage the jokers that got it off the old boy put some kind of coating or something on it. It's really hard to clean off. Here's some pics of it from the other day.

I saw this for sale locally 3-4 years ago and thought I better own it. I drove it around for a while until I got frustrated with it cutting out. The oldest photo I have of it was when I was having a shed reshuffle. It's at the back cos I was pissed off. The interior is pretty mint with cloth and vinyl seats, l26, 95000miles. Sweet after market 80s sound system with single speaker on the parcel tray Apart from the stuffed paint, there is only 1 spot of rust, on the front guard.

On the go slow for a bit longer to try bit to drain the back account too fast! Bought a hardened timing gear and belt guides as the factory guides are made from plain steel and are pretty thin. They get crushed over time and the timing gear and keyway get flogged out. Also got an upgraded alternator kit. It's an LS alternator. Some simple brackets and it's a bolt on. Also uses the factory plug which is appealing. 140amp so should do the job. Fitted it up to check pulley alignment etc Which was lucky as the thicket timing gear guides pack the balancer out by 3mm. 3 or 4 week wait on the remaining bottom end parts then that can go together. Will start on the head then. Just a stock r33 rb25 head. Will be fitting valve seals, kelford springs, and lap the valves. Maybe cams too, but that's another $$$

RS have most caps. Pretty fast delivery too. Make sure to get one with 400v or higher rating for the run cap to make it last

What the other guys said. Want me to come and have a gander? I use the same fittings on our vib truck accumulators. Work can probably sponsor you one if you need it

Any differences in water pumps and pump/crank pulley sizes? I have been looking into RFB water pumps and pulley sizes and there are different pump fin counts and pulley sizes, some combos will overheat at idle etc

I think my mate got a big box trailer done at the galvanizers in Stratford. They dipped it 4 times on a diagonal to get full coverage

@Ja1lb8built a sweet weatherboard dog haus using all the old skirting board from his house reno. Looks better than his actual house. Haha

Took our 2gr lexus gs350 from New Plymouth to rotorua to auckland loaded up with the kids and holiday shit and got 7.5L /100. And I wasn't mucking around. I'm pleased it did that cos it fuckin drinks it in town.

On the back burner for a few weeks while I try to get another datsun on the road. Took the bottom end plus a spare motor to the machinist to make all the holes round and straight. Also, many of the parts I need/want to buy are/have got really expensive. I feel like of I spread out the purchases, it will cost me less.... Bought some r35 coils and stalk adapters to make them fit. They are a possibly a bit more than I need, but they are new and will work perfectly. Other options might be a bit cheaper, but a bit of mu king around and redoing it when they don't work will cost more that doing it properley. Next stop is modify the sump, strip and clean the head, and maybe buy some shiny bits..

I see you mentioned xspurt injectors. They have no filters in them. Could easily get shit in them?

I have a hilux diff in a datsun Cedric with s14 calipers and Hyundai sonata v6 rotors. Fits under a 15inch falcon steelie. Haven't done anything for ages on it but got a mate to laser cut a bit of 10mm plastic as a bracket and it all fitted nicely. The cable comes out pretty straight towards the centre of the diff

2.5mm hole in the thermostat seems a little small. Thats a lot of time for the hot water to work its way up the outlet pipe to the thermostat, while also getting cooled on the way further delaying the thermostat seeing the real temperature. I have crewed on a few methanol race cars and they had a 6mm or larger thermostat bypass,(either around the thermostat, or back to the pump suction to allow some water flow during warmup) with the thermostat as close to the block as possible to enable it to open once it got up to temp.

Done a few things the past week. Scored a new mirror glass from a wrecker mate. Old one was broken, but it was good to be able to smash it out to see how it fitted in order to avoid breaking the replacement one. Got the larger 17/16th master cylinder. Bad thing is its only a 2 port for ABS models, where i have the non ABS lines needing a 3 port MC. Is there a drill bit available to drill an extra hole? I think i read somewhere that its just a square hole with a the tapered cone inserted to seat the flare. But i have seen guys who have the bling braided lines just double stack the banjo fittings on the 1 port. Maybe i can get a custom single banjo to double female flare fitting? Also got a set of whiteline swaybars front and rear, with the adjustable links etc A nismo coppermix twin plate clutch. Supposed to be near stock pedal feel with 590kw of holding capacity. Had this for a while, got it for a good price a while back ecu, 84mm throttle, o2 sensor. I even found this gear shifter boot in my stash. Who knows when i bought this, but mine is stuffed so its a win When i got the car going, the clutch pedal was always creaky and looked out of place. I decided that since im getting older and have no back issues i would karma sutra myself under the dash and have a look. I ended up pulling the pedal out and sure enough, its from a R33. lol, now i remember doing that maybe 12+ years ago. I dont remember it fucking my back when i did it way back then, but it did this time..... For some reason i tried to buy a new clutch and brake pedal set with all the mounts etc a while back, but only the clutch pedal bracket is available. It would seem thats its all just a bit different The last photo shows a spacer on the front of the R33 pedal box. After a LOT of googling, i discovered that the bracket lives on the firewall on the R32. Mine is missing. Either the auto models dont have it, or i ripped it off when i put the ill fitting 33 clutch in. Anyway, in a stroke of luck, i tried yahoo japan and found someone selling the full set Jackpot! Was pretty cheap too. Somebody tried to snake me in the dying seconds but gave up before my autobid ran out. Phew Also includes the throttle pedal stop and footrest which im missing. AND the brake pedal. Because i did the old angle grinder conversion from auto to manwell pedal pad, and its a bit terrible...

As the resident honda foamer, do you want this timing kit? fits sohc and dohc from what i can gather. maybe D16a or something. belt, tensioner and 2 brackets I ended up with it from somewhere along the line pm me your address if you want it and ill post it

Hard to say. I have a few other missions on. Might bring the 260c sedan. Need some fine weather to rearrange all the cars in my shed so I can work on it.

I think 8.5 will be a good comp ratio. I only want to run petrol. The calipers are all Evo 6-9 brembo. I can get adapters to run the 370z rear disc and the internal handbrake will still work. Plus with the r34 master it will give me a correct front:rear bias without any tomfoolery with a bias valve and whatnot

Yes.

Yes there is a definite lack of them around now. Its all thanks to the sideways hat brigade and their hectic driving style. Gearbox might be OK. Its a late 33 box i converted to push clutch. One of the main reasons for converting to e-throttle is to be able to limit the torque in 3rd gear, and 2nd if required. I have a complete transfer case and bearing set to give it a birthday and set up the clutches properly, plus a couple of big boxes to raid for parts should i need it. I have been converting 2wd navara box internals to fit RB for a long time now for a bunch of local drifters and have plenty of parts to keep my box going. However, there are a bunch of crazy norweigans who do a conversion kit for the bmw DCT trans. I think it will be about 10k which is a bit much, but dreams are free. Look up HPR tuning, there's some videos of a few 2jz and rb conversions. it looks awesome