fletch

Yeah good point. Check it with another gauge. Just put 1 bolt in a rocker cover and start it. Then undo it and lift off quickly to check. It's only a light flick of oil. The oil should be not so much 'pissing out' but lightly running out of each one. The oil feeds the head on the inlet cam side. So if you check the exhaust side you will know all the can journals are getting fed.

How hot did you get it? All that grease and shit probably tightened up all the gaps in the bearings. Bit of heat should sort it out. Also. I have an rfb skyline that was freshly rebuilt. Was making 100psi cold idle and 60 hot idle. So don't worry about it. Maybe check the oil is pissing out of the cam bearings at idle to reassure yourself.

Must have broken them when undoing. They aren't down a deep hole on those heads. Easy to cock the socket over on the piss if you aren't watching.

Cable tie the bag shut at the hole area?

I was discussing this with Tom today. Hope the rust is not too bad!

Shut yeah! Sohc CA turbs! Yea I would try spin the Cas by hand or with a drill without cranking to see what signals your getting. Done it before trying to sort a rfb Cas.

Shit those videos show how much of a hiding factory suspension gets. Might spend a bit more time on my Cedric's going over all the front end!

Yeah a coil would have more surface area for less volume of water. This will put more temperature into the water in the coil creating faster flow, which means more heat transfer per hour into your tub. Make your coil 20mm or 25mm if possible. 15mm will have too much internal restriction for a thermosyphon

Yea single phase is often a fuck up to change direction. Especially if it's Cap start/run etc Usually just have a go. Will only pop the circuit breaker at worst. -as long as your not touching it....

Yeah just use one of the digital inputs on the drive as a fwd/rev switch. You can set the speed at which it ramps down to 0 then accelerates in the other direction. Good for braking something with lots of inertia

I'm also keen to see if anybody here has moulded their own lenses. My 260c wagon has un-obtainium lenses on the back. So far I only have time as space to search for other people on the net who have done it. Brocky41 had some Chinese bloke on Facebook that was making them for 330 Cedric. They looked pretty good, but no photos of the process. You can buy kits to make the molds and cast the lenses. Aluminite. Com or something

here are a pair of p76 v8's. I could pickup and store in new plymouth if you purchase http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/vintage-parts/engines/auction-988213166.htm

http://www.kugelkomponents.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=4_5 These guys make it. You could check out all their products and make your own. Don't those e30 bmw's have a rod under the dash from the pedals on the right to the brake master on the left? One of my mates took off the 90deg part on the left side and put a charade booster onto the stock bmw master and had the rod pushing straight into it. Passed a cert and has been on the road about 9 years

How much pressure do you want? Give your stock one a love tap with a hammer to squash the spring up a bit for some more psi.

Check the coil to flywheel gap. I usually go for 1x business card thickness

I have the same fuel issues. If it's been running in the last 48 hours then 1 pump of the throttle plus some choke and it starts. 3 days or more not running and the fuel in the carb has gone/evaporated/been drunk by aliens, and it takes a lot of cranking for the mechanical fuel pump to fill the lines and get it back to the carb.

I bought a reconditioned electronic dizzy from the US on ebay. wasnt too expensive and cured all my ignition problems. make sure you get the one with the right ignition module. i found all the information on google -actually that link richy sent you is what i followed

anybody got any ideas on heater hoses? i need to make a curly wurly one to wrap over and around the heaterbox inside the car. 5/8 ID so far im struggling with various supercheap/repco randoms and some joiners that i have yet to purchase. I want to run as few joins as possible. also, there is no pick a part in new plymouth so i cant rummage for joiners and odd shaped hoses.

Been on a few weekend burns and i noticed it was loosing water. One of the heater hoses was leaking in the engine bay. gave it a squeeze and it disintegrated in my hands. I pulled it off and decided the top radiator hose was also on the verge of failure. next thing i know, all the hoses are out, the dash is half out, the heater is out etc etc not 1 of these 45 year old hoses is stocked by anybody so i took a selection from supercheap and repco to try. So far i have fitted 2 hoses. only 7 or 8 to go.

Bought one of these! I have been waiting for a while for a good hoist to come up for sale. Missed out on a few on TM as i was too slow, but this came up in taupo from a place that was downsizing so i grabbed it. 3.5T heshbon. in great condition. Its 10mm from the roof and just forward enough so the arse end of the car clears the roller door.

saw on an old forum that a hilux power steering box bolts in

Not complete yet. I'll have a build thread up in 6 months.....

Yea same unit as the swift. All made by GM.

Also, To fit it us a fuck around. Depends on how much room you have under the dash. It took me a while to make a temporary bracket and test it then cut it off and make another one and try that. I also converted to steering rack so that made it a pick. If your keeping the steering box it will be easy. Just find some space, chop the column and jam the motor in with a bracket to hold the torque.

In the UK they use the setup from a Vauxhall corsa or something similar. It's the same unit as the swift and some other cars. There is a tilt column version and a non tilt. I used the tilt version to give me room with the original Datsun steering column. Depends if you have a collapsible column From memory there and many places in the UK that sell the steering controller. But if you get the factory unit you will be able to adapt it to your car. It needs an rpm pulse so it knows the engine is running and a speed pulse input so it can decrease the assist as you speed up. The aftermarket control boxes you can buy just trick these signals. A mate in Auckland has built some of these as he uses one in his mini-sprint and would sell you one for a box of beers.