ajg193

I have all three of those. Great combination for fuel economy though. Getting 5.5-6 L/100km around town with current configuration

And yep, only accounting for flow on 1/4 of cycle edit: Looking through my model and trying to produce a temp gain vs runner temp for given hp could be a bit difficult as the mass flow calculation it uses takes into account changes in density as function of temperature but I just provide VE, MAP and RPM. If I fix VE and MAP and use RPM to try get a mass flow rate that relates to a power output, the power output is a function of runner temperature and pushes stuff all around. Easier if you just cut a vertical line on the graph above at your desired power output.

Have you ever put your hands on EFI 4K runners? You could easily cook a steak. Even with the carb manifold I have successfully cooked garlic bread Here is for 50 mm diameter, 400 mm length and 20 deg ambient, coolant 90 deg Runner temp distribution is IAT+1/3(temp), temp, max(CLT, CLT-1/3(temp)) along length, equally split.

I'm using heat capacity of the air as 1008 J/(kgK) A bit of maths for my 4K with 650 mm long runners Assuming temperature gain of 48 K at mass flow rate of 0.0018 kg/s (basically idling) -> 48K*1008J/(kgK)*0.0018kg/s =88 W per cylinder Assuming 36 K gain at mass flow rate of 0.019 kg/s (full tilt for a 4K) -> 690 W per cylinder That's a lot of heat input, I guess the runners would cool down under sustained load. But then again, the amount of heat being fired off the exhaust headers right next to the intake would probably offset the cooling.

That's how the ECU calculates mass flow rate. VE is just the correction factor that the ECU applies to MAP*RPM

Here is for a 4 cylinder engine with 200 mm long runners:

To avoid cluttering @Roman yaris thread, here are the graphs that @kpr asked for regarding heat transfer into air in runners Runner length is defined as distance between intake valve and plenum/open air in this situation Runner temperature is assumed to vary along the length of the runner, split into three equal length sections being 35 deg at inlet, 70 deg in the mid section and coolant temperature at the head end. If you give me measurements at points along your runner I can feed that data into the model to give you a prediction. Airbox temperature is assumed to be 20 deg. Here is temperature gain along runner for mass flow rate through that runner, with varying runner length. Runner diameter is 28 mm: Here is changing diameter, holding runner length constant at 650 mm: For reference, the maximum flow rate on this graph corresponds to about 15 hp per cylinder, so you're probably only getting a 10 degree gain at most with your 4AGE at full power

I'll generate some graph tonight, it all depends on the flow velocity, diameter and temperature of pipe X axis on that graph is pretty much mass flow rate per cylinder

That's the result of numerical simulations, takes in runner dimensions, cylinder volume, calibrated mass flow and some fluid properties. Model appears to be accurate to within 5-10% across a range of engine and iat based on datalogs. Maybe one day I will add extra sensor but there isn't a lot of room down by the head

On my shit box starlet with long steel runners there is pretty significant heat transfer at full nang. That alone is good motivation to change to plastic trumpets on a short itb setup. /Ling

Bit late, but kp starlet tacho is accurate to as close as I can distinguish, about 50 rpm. You occasionally find a tacho dash at a reasonable price on trademe or buyee. Perhaps ebay too. They have the right style for what you want

I sometimes wonder what happened to the engines from our Corollas that were written off by that drunk driver one night. Either some people got two of the healthiest 4A-F/4A-FE engine's to ever grace our wreckers or they got turned into tin cans. Would have been an absolute shame if they were scrapped.

It's because you aren't putting the nitrogen through your waterblaster, that'll make it chooch properly.

How did she blow the engine?

So you're saying I couldn't fit an Austin Princess steering wheel to my car?

Did anyone buy any of these? Brantz uk website doesn't want to ship to NZ and the ireland one wants like 64 euro for shipping.

You really need a set of four starlet deer head centre caps for your wheels. I hear there is a Good Engineering outfit with a little CNC mill that can make them Based on this

If anyone is wanting to build an EFI system there is a whole load of high quality, ruggedised EFI gear for sale from martin jetpacks right now: https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/search?member_listing=326563&bof=9qt4vnAL&page=3 All $1 res

Looks like a recipe for pumping losses if the end is capped In saying that, I probably have all the tools required to make those out of aluminium just laying around

As far as I can gather the Yellow one is getting a 12A in front of an automatic with a locked diff and will be rolling on modgies wrapped in eagers

Can you please create a reference table and graph to indicate which parts are going into which car.

My recipe for successful frost plugs: New coolant every few years to stop stuff corroding in the first place Brought to you by captain hindsight ®™

@kpr when measuring your exhaust pressure, how are you plumbing the sensor into the exhaust? Just into the O2 bung with some sort of long tube to stop the heat getting to the sensor?

The bonnet is the bump stop

Have I mentioned that crc protectant stuff in this thread yet? I applied it to the super chalky bonnet pull handle and it restored it to new condition after about three applications in the space of 10 minutes