MKD

Picked up an fa50 after a call from the local scrappy - pays to leave your business cards around haha!! Real good dude sold it to me for what its worth as scrap - Win! Plus a 6 pack to grease the gears. So here it is in whats left of its former glory... With older brother behind Its pretty complete, only missing indies and the key (headlight assembly not on in pic) Plans are get it going first...then maybe pipe etc. who knows. wooop

you can still clean most of the rest of the carb without bothering to take off the intake hose though

heat it up a little with a heat gun around the neck at the carb if its super stuck, otherwise gently lever it off with flathead screwdriver while trying not to break the carby haha. move around it like prying open a paint can?

yeah its worth cleaning all the jets etc, float needle, CRC/carb clean all holes everywhere. They're small carbs so easy to take off and take to bits. Stick a wire brush bristle down all the little holes in the jets to get crap out. mine is a pain in the ass to get the air intake hose off the carb, but need to get to the intake/ air mix holes that way. wet plug is ok after a few kicks, black plug after running/idling not so much - clean the plug hardout too and set the right gap (0.7mm from memory??) Light coffee/chocolate after full WOT engine kill should be perfect (turn off ur keys going flat out - not on a stand) lol. nice essay of a post...woops

tracker? this builds pretty cool www.dogsville.wordpress.com/2010/07/03/Yamaha-rd-125-daily-tracker/ theres another link to a 'projecto' on there too on another blog

sounds rich. both idle and running jet circuit? and yeah they are fairly temperamental, my FR50's the same I'd start with pulling off the carbs and thoroughly cleaning the crap outa them. what colour are the plugs at the moment?

Haha woops shouldve looked

heres your motor... Forza XY140cc $150 BN TM listing 906500187 (couldn't paste the link sorry)

nah but if youre bothering to get a rebore you might aswell get a decent-ish piston. the namura ones available here seem ok and are about $45-50 from memory

run it under the bars rather than over if it misses the legshield

clip at highest level will be needle at lowest level, you want needle at the highest level, so clip at the lowest groove. im sure that's what you meant though I could be jets, but see if the needle raised as high as I can makes a difference. although saying that, the plug colour chart posted a couple post back says my plug is perfect? it still dies at WOT after a while and have to milk it (choke on, gently throttle as not to stall it) till it picks itself back up again. it could be even as simple as the carb bowl draining and not refilling quick enough at WOT? check your fuel/filters lines aren't blocked and your float height is right

lean, semi to way lean. my fr50s doing that now too. my needle is on the bottom clip and still needs more gas. larger jets when i get round to it. mines the same starting when hot too, won't most of the time. is yours dying when its running hard or just when it warms up? plug colour? mines dry light brown as it is now, needs to go richer with bigger jets to get browner drop the clip to start with before doing jets

what jappa site did you use/find for the parts?

Qcr should know in chch

As its written it only needs an inspection when first registred on nz roads. They do like to say it needs another one but it doesnt actually say anywhere it does. Just take in engine and frame numbers. Check the moped rules on vtnz I did mine walk in, walk out sight unseen. Thers no moped class on the form but there is in the system if that makes sense. They should know hopefully.

any updates?

Shouldnt need the crank puller for cotter pin cranks? I dont even know if it would fit...? Theyre likely just rusted on a bit. Try not to mash them too bad hitting the pins out, you can get new ones pretty easy for a couple bucks though. Bottom bracket housings got me the first time i stripped one...didnt realise one side was reverse thread haha

Cheers, I think it was $90 for the boring and $45 for the piston kit 0.5 oversize. I couldn't find an actual FR50 piston but the JR50 / LT50 ones are the same. so far it runs ok but its lean as i think its got an air leak somewhere - it does 65kmh at the moment but should get better when it runs richer

swap mounts over, lower it. but then the bars will stick up heaps?

Bout time for a pic dump Seatbelt webbing to be sewn together then figure out some way to mount the seat...

You could always double shock the suspension if its too soft. Would the arms fit another shock eye in width wise? like those ridiculous yank trucks with 6 shocks per side per wheel etc. Drove past an old small bulldozer in a paddock with the sweetest front cowl and cover that would look mint on this..know you've got yours sussed though. Keep it up

I ended up sanding with like 600 wet and dry a bit on the plug electrodes plus wiping/cleaning the carbon off it if that helps and yeah the chokes a bit different - you could probably buy a new carb off TM for the price of a new one lol. that blygo dude from auzzie sells one that looks exactly like the fr50 one for like 35$

got a pic of the choke tabby thing? got one from a fr50 you can have if you want it if its the same. or get one of the amal-styled choke/retard (lol) levers from TM for like $25. lever works mint but had to piss round with cable ends etc. PLUGS....the fr is piss-awkward to start if the plug is dirty. like at all dirty. clean that mofo real good.

yeah my FR50 0.5 piston was $45 I think. plus about a hundy for the boring. cant remember what oversizes there were. Pretty sure theyre the same piston actually - I bought one to suit an fz50 - lt50 - jr50 theyre all the same.

any part no's on those shocks (F&R)? or where'd you get them from? keen to get a set for mine. little shorter though, around 230-240mm rears chur. bike looks great btw, quick build too