a.craw4d

Looks more like a cross between a spot welder and a plasma cutter.

Float valves were stuck on 1,2 and 4. Bottom of the bowls are stained green, gave them a squirt and soak in carb cleaner but doesn't come off. Is it ok to leave or will it loosen up in time and block shit up? Anyway, pics or it didn't happen. One stuck valve covered in snot (is it called a valve? I'm just naming bits as I feel). All the floats and valves out. Will take the main carb assembly to work and give it a blow out. And the bowls after I've given them a quick clean. Will try scrub out the bowls with something, don't know what yet. Is there a way to stop all this happening or is it just a case of not letting it sit for too long between runs? Would appreciated some direction.

Feels like I've been here before. Starting with the diaphragm side just in case fuel was making its way up there. It wasn't luckily. The needles on numbers 1 and 2 were a bit green but it polished off with some autosol easily. Will hopefully drop the floats out tomorrow then take it to work and give it all a good blow out.

Could you remove the wastegate and set it up with some threaded rod or a bolt that you adjust manually?

I'll keep this short as there's no pics. Gave the bike a good shake just in case it loosened up the stuck floats, nope. Dropped the bottom off #2 float bowl and found it stuck, got that freed up and checked #1 and 3. Both of those were ok but different. Back to #2 and turns out not only was the float struck but the little needle valve attached to the float was stuck. Fixed that (I think). Couldn't get at #4 easily so left it and tried my luck. Still overflows. Think I'll just pull the carbs right off and give them another going over. The rubber joiner bits are new so should come off easily this time, I hope. There was a little crap and green varnish? in the float bowls and around the needles so they need a clean. Seems odd though as I've had them all apart, cleaned and new seals. Have also sat for quite some time so who knows. Next weekends job.

Also, this is my fuel valve. Its been so long I can't remember which bit the vacuum line goes onto. I'm thinking the one on the left? Thanks people in the bike spam thread, left port it is.

So after this, And this, This, And a bit more after those photos were taken. I have a tank that keeps petrol on the inside. Excited to finally take this for a hoon I chucked it all back together. Cranked it up and found this, Floats must be stuck, fuel was fair pissing out of the carb overflows So gutted. Still really excited to go for a hoon though. I'll drop the bottom off the float bowls and hopefully get them sorted easy enough.

Wow, that's some real Barry ingenuity right there.

@Scrubb How'd you paint the 86? Airbrush, can or brush? Looks awesome.

I've also started taking to the wheels with autosol. Seems to work a treat.

Wow, I had to dig a bit to find this thread again. I'd like to say I've made great progress on this but... well, this is oldschool so I'm moving along ok so far. I tig welded up a few little holes in the tank but run into trouble when I got close to some previous brazed repairs. I didn't have the gear to braze so I gave it to a mate to do. He fixed the holes, I put gas in and found more. He fixed the holes, I put gas in and found more, and so on and so on. In this time I gave up being a stay home Dad and went back to work so now I've got access to everything I need but no time to do it. I've had the tank sitting beside my toolbox with what I hope is the last hole to fill. When I saw @estate_ mc17 for sale on here it reminded me how cool these bikes are, so I sacrificed a smoko break and fixed the hole plus sweated some braze over any patches that could be suspect, blue out all the crap and dust from inside it and, fingers crossed I'll chuck some gas in it today and it won't leak. PS. I will get a new tank for this eventually. Pictureless updates suck so here's a motivational pic. How do people go about a replacing fork seals? Do I just hang the front from the garage roof and strip it while the front's off the ground or is there another way? Edit: Aaaannnnnnd nope still one more hole. On the plus side, Mr 8 wanted to go for a ride on it when it's going so that's a step in the right direction

Hmmmm. I have a set of unemployed shopping trolley wheels.

I also modified a piggyback type extension cord plug to take the larger 15A earth for site welding.

Normal single phase wiring should be adequate, unless as mentioned above it has a heap of outlets run off the same line. Although that's where the circuit breaker plays its part. I had 2 15A plugs put in my garage on existing outlet wiring and upgraded circuit breakers.

FYI. The only difference between a 15A and a 10A plug is the size of the earth pin.

Currently ripping out a pair of these. Motorbike for scale. Measure in at 1900mm long, 300mm high. Should only need a block or 2 to get the silv onto them.

Copied and pasted from the hotwheels thread but thought this was a suitable place to post. I've got a couple spare bits from my Mazda model if anyone wants some bits. 1:24 scale bits from an 83 Mazda 323 but universal. Bits include. 2x sets of round driving lights with clear lenses. 1x set of rectangular driving lights. 2x sport steering wheels. 1x gear stick and knob. 1x anti static strap. Pair of parcel shelf box speakers. Roof aerial. Pair of mesh style head rests. Race seat. Roof spoiler. Pair of fender mirrors. Extra wide rear view mirror. Roll over bar with single back brace. 17 inch wheels and tires. Came from this set.   Have some of the decals too. Sorry for the shitty pics but you hopefully get the idea. Just after postage money.

Can someone from the 3D printing thread please whip up a few sets of hotwire's, turbo's and tridon's? Cheers.

@kyteler could be keen. I was after a 5 spoke style in 15's to match my car but those MK-III's do look cool. I'll look into it tonight. I also have this nos Datsun 510 sss kit that I'm undecided if I'll build or just hold onto for a while.

And this one I've lowered a scale 3 inches and dialed in a bit of camber front and rear. Need to find some suitable wheels for it. I still need to cut out the top of the wheel wells on the chassis piece so the wheels can turn.

This is my first 1:24 car model I've just done recently. No mods, just a copy of the wife's first car.

^ What alltorque said. I've installed a few towbars and all used crush tubes if bolting through a hollow section.

Cheers guys. Looks like I'll get my arse into gear and make a set to suit a low car, and not be smooth on the bottom so they don't slip out. There were a few reviews on the supercheap and repco ones saying they slip out. Thanks again.

Can anyone recommend me some car ramps? I'm sick of jacking up cars to do an oil change. I was going to build my own at some stage but energy and time haven't allowed for quite a while now. Supercheap has a set half price at the moment, anyone have experience with those ones? Cheers.

Ling post but I've removed the transponder from a car key and just attached it to the ignition barrel, then get normal keys cut.