a.craw4d

Hey @CarolsHusband I'll happily listen while you go full Barry on your weathering techniques. That stuff looks amazing.

A mate of mine made a few sets by using old worn out adjusties. Ripped the guts out and found an off the shelf insert that fitted inside. Definitely no race spec build but fine for the street.

@Willdat? I remember that van, wonder what happened to it. @Vk304 I realize you've probably already sorted the intake but would an s13 sr20 intake have fitted?

Ah yep I see where you’re coming from. I’d imagine the half shafts and cv’s will be fine, if anything the driveshaft and uj’s might want to corkscrew. It’s a street car so won’t get a real hiding. Or should I recommend he runs supercats, linglongs or equivalent

???? It’s Toyota driveshaft and axils getting mated to the Nissan diff. Are you meaning if that Toyota inner cv was replaced with the correct 5 bolt Nissan unit that happened to also fit the Toyota spline on the axil? Or combine a Nissan outer cv shell with Toyota cv guts? Could be possible but we also need to narrow up the diff as much as we can. Nissan is about 80mm wider than the stock Toyota. Also not mine to do the required research and the work asked above is all easy to do. Stock Toyota on left, Nissan on right.

Thanks again. Just checking before I do it. It’s for a customer at work. He’s put a Lexus v8 into an early celica and upgraded to a skyline lsd unit. Should do a good skid.

Here’s a pic of the diff stub shaft with a 5 bolt set up. I’ll machine it off. Weld a new flange on and machine it to suit the 4 bolt axil. Will also machine a spigot to suit the axils.

Thanks Clint. Yes an IRS Center. Sorry I should have clarified that. Also can I redrill a new pcd on the diff input flange? It currently has a 4 bolt pattern and I need to drill a smaller 4 bolt pattern. Will align the new pcd between the old. Will also machine a ring to locate the driveshaft into the spigot on the diff flange.

Diff stub axils. Can the axil mounting flange be cut off and a new one welded on them machined to suit different axils? Diff in question is a Nissan LSD unit to go into a celica.

As much as it pains me to do this, this is now up for sale. Since the last update I've cleaned the carbs and fixed the fuel tank. Managed to clean all the matt black off the tank too ready to paint. Also have a set of rebuilt forks, a warrantable rear disc and new pads, spare set of leads and coils, and a good condition rear mud/chain guard to go with it. The brakes have jammed on at the moment and I'm lead to believe the brake lines could be swelled inside so these will need replaced, have a lead on a good 2nd hand set (may only be the rear brakes, will check this weekend). Will need tires as they are old and hard, and a battery for a wof. Fairly sure everything else is good and works as it should. Rego on hold. I just don't have the time to sort this and have lost a lot of motivation towards it. As much as I'd love to keep it it's also unrealistic that I'll even ride it. Would be happy with $1000 to a fellow oldschooler. Edit. Checked the brakes today and only the rear was jammed. Also tipped some fresh fuel down the fuel line and jump started it, started first pop.

Hopefully you can read this.

Don't know if you can google and find it but in the latest engineering news magazine there's a nz company developing high end race engine stuff. They 3d printed the intake runners to fit between a profile cut ali flange and their off the shelf throttle bodies. Epoxyed the inside surface to seal it then tested it to 100psi. Fairly sure it was only 2mm wall thickness with like 3mm thick ribs. Remembered it when you mentioned 3d printing and carbon wrapping. I'll try find the article today. This could well be the future of oldschool.

Look forward to the turbo. Skid plate + makita one ways + turbo = skimming across those ford crossings. Win win.

A quick google tells me a SR20DET goes nicely in these.

I check back here each day hoping to see a desprung Micra While you pour your morning coffee, a little child at heart waits. He waits and hopes to see a little micra grading your driveway.

On the weight loss theme. A mate and I had a 4wd Subaru Leone wagon we thought we'd make into an off road buggy. We removed all panels and doors, chopped off the roof at the bottom of the windscreen height, chopped the back off at the rear most suspension mounting point and put the fuel tank where the back seat was. Added a single roll over bar and a bar across the tops of the chopped pillars. Now this isn't recommended for a tidy road going car but the performance increase was staggering. In the length of an industrial Dunedin block (maybe 100-150m max) we were cracking 130kph, it kicked the ass off my Mazda gtx at the time too. Never did take it off roading though, someone drove past and offered good coin for it. And that's my story.

Stripping out the interior an option? It'll make a bigger difference down the 1/4.

Might find you'll need to disable the curtain airbags, possibly cert required? If it's a trades van full of tools or gear and an airbag goes off, that gear is going to become a projectile. @cletus may have some insight.

Can you blow through the pipe?

The car got a wof? Have insurance? Get a good stone chip in the windscreen and they'll replace it for free. Stone, wheel brace, whatever.

Going against oldschool protocol here but at what point would you need a cert for raising a car and chucking a set of mud tires on it? Assuming there's no tire clearance issues on suspension components and structural bodywork and guards flared to cover tires. How much higher with say aftermarket springs could you go before all the suspension geometry goes out the window? This is all hypothetical but keen for a laugh to have a lifted shitbox on mudders. I understand a 195/60r15 tire is around 24inches high and going to 32 inch muds would give 4 inches more ground clearance. Is it legal to put spacers between the front and rear subframes (if applicable) and the body to achieve a body lift? Cheers. Pic for inspiration/ clarification.

Machines ok with tool steel. It's also soft enough that close enough is good enough. Enough already.

I've got welding gear at home. You in a hurry for it or after lockdown ok?

Cut the whole removable tongue bracket off and glue it onto your towbar, easy. Have done it a few times myself. I've fitted heaps of towbars through my old work, and made a fair few from scratch. The quality on the premade ready to fit kit's is questionable at best. Without knowing your welding ability, I'd say you are more than capable of doing a better job than most.